World Peas

This moment when Spring melts into summer brings us a burst of peas, specifically garden peas also called English peas to differentiate them from their ancestor, the split pea used in South Asia for dhal.  
Seventeenth century Frenchmen (think petit pois), then eighteenth century Englishmen set themselves to breeding the plump soft pea in the pod from the hard lentil like legume they found all over India. Thomas Jefferson was so fascinated he joined the effort and is considered the original breeder of the garden pea in America.  

Like their progenitor, garden peas are nutritious: they have protein, fiber and hard to find vitamins. They're a lot more colorful and quicker to cook. They go with just about anything. And even kids like them, presented as smashed peas--traditional British nursery food. I included a recipe for smashed peas in my book Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking. Know when shopping 1 lb of pods yields 1 to 1¼ cups peas, which makes 2 servings.  
 
A word of advice: don't toss those pods in the garbage when the peas are out. They are remarkably flavorful. Boil them up in some salted water for 15 minutes. Then remove them with a slotted spoon  and save that flavored water for a risotto, paella, to cook your peas, to cook pasta. You won't regret this extra little step.

Here are a few ways to enjoy peas right now.
I already posted a paella recipe last time because paella makes a great home for peas. In Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, I included an old southern Italian recipe for petit pasta with fresh peas, the very small pasta meant to look like rosary beads.
   
Garden Pea "Hummus"

 

I have to put hummus in quotes because it is actually the Arabic word for chickpea  although it's become in America the word for any mashed dip dish. I have posted this before and do it again because it's a keeper recipe you can use again and again. It goes to a picnic or potluck or on a boat. It spreads nicely on toast or crackers or in a pita pocket for a sandwich.  It's pureed enough to be baby food and to dip carrots and cucumbers into.
 
2 cups shelled peas (more or less 1 lb shelled peas) 
2 bunches fresh green onions, roots off and stalks trimmed (do not remove all the stalk) 
1 clove garlic, minced 
3 tbsp olive oil 
1/3 c chopped fresh flat leaf parsley 
1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, another 2 tbsp for garnishing 
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste 
Sea Salt to your taste 
4 oz creamy soft unflavored goat cheese 
1/2 cup cooked cannellini (white) beans, drained 
pinch of nutmeg

Chop the scallions coarsely.

In a medium/large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium flame. Add scallions and garlic and sauté 1 minute or until scallions start to soften. Be careful not to burn garlic. Lower heat if necessary. Add the shelled peas and shake the pan. If it's too dry and they want to stick add another tbsp olive oil. Add 1/2 cup water and cook over medium heat 3-4 minutes until peas start to soften. Add the parsley and cook another minute. The peas should be soft but not soggy or losing color. Drain off any excess water and pour the contents of the pan into a food processor. (if you have an immersion blender you can keep the peas in the pot, okay). Add the mint, salt, pepper, goat cheese and beans. Quickly puree into a thick paste. If it's too thick, add a tbsp or two of olive oil. Sprinkle on a pinch of nutmeg.

That's it. You can serve this with or on sliced cucumbers--a very cooling dish. You can spread more creamy goat cheese on a slice of baguette and top it with a smear of the pea hummus and a sprinkling of chopped mint leaves. You can use this to fill radicchio leaves--the lower half or smear it on a lavash, top with mascarpone and salmon roe, then roll up the lavash into a large cigar. Now cut it into serving size pieces. In a pinch you can just stick a spoon in and enjoy all the freshness of spring.

Pea Fritters

There are several versions of these fried patties. You either smash up the peas into a paste or you leave them loose. This is not totally mashed peas with bacon version and it makes a lovely vegetarian lunch served with mint based raita (raita/tsatsiki the yogurt  and cucumber condiment is made with dill or mint), or a tomato feta salad.

18 ounces fresh green peas

4 1/2 ounces whole-milk ricotta cheese

3 large eggs, beaten

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, and lemon wedges for serving (cut after zesting)

3/4 teaspoon salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Optional: 1 tablespoons Israeli za'atar

1/2 tsp mild chili like Aleppo pepper or chipotle

2/3 cup flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1 cup packed mint leaves, finely chopped

7 ounces feta cheese, crumbled

About 3 1/3 cups corn or safflower oil, for frying

Smash the peas in a food processor so they are coarsely crushed. Put them in a large a mixing bowl. Stir in the ricotta, eggs, lemon zest, salt, a good grind of pepper, optionally the za'atar, ground chili, flour and baking powder. Mixing until they are blended. Gently fold in the mint and feta.

Heat the oil in a medium skillet or frying pan over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels.

With a large flattish spoon, make large balls you flatten into patties or make patties about 2” wide. Fry as many as fit in one layer in the pan 3 to 4 minutes, then with tongs, turn them and brown evenly. Use a slotted spatula to transfer them to the lined plate while you cook the remaining batch.

Serve warm, with lemon wedges and garnish with fresh mint leaves.

Pea Pudding
If you have time for a few steps toward something unusual and glamorous, this is for you. It brightens a meal of grilled meats or chicken. It's also a vegetarian centerpiece.  
serves 8 
2 lbs shelled peas: steamed until soft, drained and puréed 
6 oz butter, melted 
1 tsp salt 
4 eggs, separated 
¼ lb grated Jack or Fontina cheese 
¼ cup sugar 
1½ tsp baking powder 
½ cup flour (cake if you have it) 
2 tsp dried mint, crushed or 1 tbsp fresh 
1-2 tbsp chopped fresh chives

Preheat oven to 350º. 
Beat egg yolks until thick and whisk in sugar. Alternately whisk in flour and melted butter. Stir in smashed peas, salt and cheese. Blend well. Stir in baking powder.

In a separate bowl, beat egg whites until very stiff and fold into pea mix. Pour into a buttered Charlotte mold or pudding dish, set it on a baking sheet and fill that sheet with ¼” water. Bake 50-60 minutes, or until cake tester comes out clean. Unmold to serve with lime wedges and dill.


Risi e bisi

This (rice and peas) is the traditional Spring risotto dish of Northern Italy although some gourmets claim it's more a soup than a risotto.   They also argue over whether or not it should contain pancetta. You can choose. You can make it either way to your taste and be correct. You will also find different recipes for a pea risotto.
  serves 4-5

2 lbs peas in the pod
1 tbsp unbleached flour
1 tsp coarse salt
1 med celery stalk, cleaned
10 sprigs flat leaf parsley, leaves only
4 tbsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
2 tbsp olive oil
4 oz pancetta or other unsmoked bacon, in tiny pieces: Optional
1/2 c dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
3 c beef stock or veg stock
2 c Arborio or similar Italian rice
To serve: 3 tbsp unsalted butter
scant 1/4 c freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Shell the peas. Fill a bowl with enough cold water to cover them and stir the flour into the water. Add the peas and let them soak 30 min. Meanwhile wash the pods, put them in a large pot with 4 c water and the coarse grained salt. Bring the water to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook 50-60 minutes.

Drain and rinse the peas. Finely chop the celery and parsley together on a board.
In a med saucepan/pot, heat the butter with the oil until the butter is melted. Add the pancetta and sauté over med/low heat 5 min. Add the celery/parsley mix and cook 5 more minutes. Stir in the peas and continue cooking 5 minutes. Add salt and black pepper to your taste, then the wine. Cover the pan and simmer 20 minutes. The peas should be cooked but firm. Remove from heat but let pot stand covered.

Remove the pea pods from the cooking water. Add the beef broth and heat toward boiling.
Into a large heavy covered casserole, carefully pour the juices from the pea pan. Over med/high heat bring them to a boil and quickly stir in the rice. Sauté 3 min. Now start ladling one ladle at a time the hot peapod broth into the casserole, stirring so the rice absorbs it. Keep ladling once the rice absorbs the last and continue until almost all the liquid in gone except 1/4 c. Add the peas and pancetta to the rice with the last broth mixture. Taste and adjust salt and freshly ground black pepper. Remove from heat and stir in the butter and cheese. Blend and serve immediately.
        
Salmon peas and potato salad 
This was my tribute to Maine's July 4 when traditionally everybody celebrated the sea and land arrival of spawning salmon, fresh peas and new potatoes.  I put them all together in a composed salad and it was a big hit. I also allowed people to choose between fresh poached or smoked salmon
serves 4

8-10 new potatoes: red bliss or Yukon gold, scrubbed and boiled until al dente (not mushy), drained and cut into bite-sized pieces 
4 slices smoked salmon or 1/3 lb cooked fresh salmon, cut into bite sized pieces 
1 cup (from 1lb in pod) cooked fresh peas (steamed 3 minutes in salted water with a sprig of mint) 
1 tbsp fresh dill, minced 
1 tsp celery seed 
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste 
2 tsp capers, without juice 
1 sm red onion, peeled and minced (you can substitute 5 scallions but you'll lose a color in the bowl) 
Salt to your taste (be careful as the capers and smoked salmon may be salty) 
Combine all the above in a serving bowl.

Dressing
1 tsp sherry or balsamic vinegar 
1 tbsp plain Greek (thick and not watery) yogurt 
pinch of salt 
3 tbsp mayonnaise 
1 tsp ketchup
Whisk together and blend into the potato salad.
Top with 1 tbsp fresh parsley leaves, minced and serve or refrigerate covered until ready to serve.


Tagliatelle with peas and proscuitto 
This is a relatively quick to throw together meal right now.It's especially delicious and soul warming if you make your own noodles.

Serves 4

1  lb tagliatelle pasta
1/2 lb fresh peas in the pod
1/4 c olive oil plus extra for drizzling
1 garlic clove, crushed
handful of mint, freshly chopped
1/4 c Parmesan cheese, freshly grated
8 slices prosciutto or for vegetarians 1/2 lb soft goat’s cheese, crumbled
salt and freshly ground black pepper

Bring a medium pan of salted water to the boil. Add the peas and cook for 2–3 minutes. Drain and plunge into iced water. Set aside.Heat the olive oil in a pan over a low heat and add the garlic. Cook for 1 minute, then add the drained peas and cook 2–3 minutes. Remove from the heat and set aside.

Bring a large pan of salted water to the boil and cook fresh tagliatelle 3–4 minutes, until al dente. Dried will take longer: see package for   instructions.

Drain the pasta and add to the pea mixture. Toss well, then season to taste with salt and pepper.  Add the chopped mint and a drizzle of olive oil. Sprinkle in the parmesan cheese and mix in pieces of the prosciutto, or scatter the goat’s cheese, and serve.

Aloo Mataar

This is the Indian/Nepali way with English peas: mixed in with potatoes and chilies. It's a side dish in a meal. 
serves 4

3 medium boiled potatoes 
3/4 cup green peas 
2 tbsp corn, mustard or safflower oil 
1 tsp cumin seeds 
1" fresh ginger peeled and smashed into a paste
3 garlic cloves peeled and smashed and minced
1 green chili, minced
2 tbsp ground coriander
1 tsp fennel seeds
1/4 tsp ground turmeric
1 tsp paprika
1 tsp salt or to your taste
1/2 tsp garam masala
2 medium tomatoes, thinly sliced
1/4 cup freshly chopped cilantro leaves

Peel the potatoes and cut into bite size pieces.
In a small bowl, mix ginger, garlic, green chili, coriander, fennel seed, turmeric, and paprika with ¼ cup of water.
Heat oil in a saucepan. (Test heat by adding 1 cumin seed. If tit cracks right away, the oil is ready.) Add all cumin seeds, once they crack, add the spice mix in the bowl. Cook about one minute or until spices start to separate from the oil. Add green peas plus half a cup of water. Cook 3 minutes or until peas are tender.
Add potatoes and salt. Mix and try when you do to mash a few piece of potato to make the sauce thicken.
Add 1 cup of water. Bring to a boil then lower heat to medium and cook about 5 minutes to release all flavors. Add garam masala, chopped cilantro and tomatoes. Blend gently and continue cooking on low heat until gravy comes to boil. Cover pot and turn off heat. Let sit 10 minutes. Then it's ready to serve!