Monday, December 17, 2018

Tidings of Comfort for the Holiday Table

Everybody has their own idea of festive food for the Christmas holiday. For many it's a standing rib roast. For others a baked ham or roasted turkey. Meanwhile we all need other things on the table. So here's to putting pzazz in your meals this month with simple food of glorious color. There's no reason meals have to be as drab as winter weather!

Winter Squash stuffed with Jewel Rice
Jewel rice for stuffing
There are many versions of this celebratory Middle Eastern dish but the shared basics are saffron rice, lots of fresh green herbs, pistachio nuts and seasonal dried fruits stuffed into one orange/red winter squash or another (red kuri, sugar pumpkin). it's a spectacular vegetarian fiesta on the table or the perfect partner for simple roast chicken. 
small sugar pumpkins to stuff
1 lg (2 1/2 lb) red kuri squash--or sugar pumpkin
1 cup (heaping) long grain Basmati or Jasmine rice (rinsed)
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
a big pinch of saffron threads
1 1/2 tsp ground coriander
Peel of 1/3 orange (no pith please), sliced into very thin strips
1/4 cup pistachio nutmeats
1/4 cup roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1/4 cup dried cherries soaked in boiling water 5 minutes and drained
8-10 dried apricots, chopped into bite-size pieces
1 tsp rosewater
1/2 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper to your taste
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
1 bunch mint coarsely chopped or 1/2 cup dried mint leaves
1 bunch dill, coarsely chopped
1 lemon cut in wedges for garnish
1 cup thick fresh yogurt for serving

Preheat over to 400º. Soak the saffron threads in 1 tsp hot water.

Wash the squash and microwave it just long enough to soften it so you can put a knife in.
Cut off the stalk end to use as a lid. Scoop out all seeds and strings. Put the lid back on the squash, put the squash on a baking sheet and put it in the oven for 1 hour.

Now, put the rice in a pot with just enough water to cover it. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer, partially cover the pot and cook 10-12 minutes until all the water is absorbed. (The rice will not be totally cooked, no worries.)


Meanwhile in a wide lidded skillet or casserole, heat oil and butter until butter melts. Stir in coriander, orange peel, pistachios, pumpkin seeds, drained cherries and apricots. Sauté one minute. Add the rice, saffron (with water) and rose water. Season with salt and pepper.

Turn off the heat. Cover the pot with a clean, dry dish towel and press the pan lid down over it to a tight fit. Let the pilaf steam for 10 minutes. Toss in the parsley, dill and mint.

When squash is ready, lift off the lid and fill it with the pilaf, gently stuffing it in. Put the lid back on and put the stuffed squash back in the oven for 20 minutes.

Remove the lid to serve. Slice the lemon into wedges. There are two ways to present this: one is to simply put the wedges all around the squash on a serving plate, put 1/4 of the yogurt on top of the pilaf and pass the rest in a separate bowl, and let everybody dig in. Or you can slice a 1/2" thick round off the top of the squash, lay this ring on a plate, fill it with the pilaf, top this with yogurt and place a lemon wedge to one side.


Fennel mandarin salad
Fennel salad with citrus and olives is an Italian tradition. Its crunch, tang and saltiness are a perfect getaway from ordinary lettuce salads. Its colors light up the table, especially with bright green wild arugula as the base. It's an excellent palate cleanser after heavy roasted or grilled meat, baked fish or creamy pasta. And a perfect lead-in to a cheese course. Another lesson in simple as best.
serves 4

1 lg fennel bulb, cleaned and cored
2 seedless mandarins or clementines, peeled and segmented
1 sm or 1/2 med red onion
8-10 Kalamata olives pitted or not
4 oz  wild fresh arugula
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
for the dressing:
3 1/2 tbsp best quality olive oil
1 balsamic vinegar

Chop the fennel into bite sized pieces. Chop some of the feathery fronds for garnish.
Slice the red onion into very thin rings, then half the rings into crescents.
Line the bottom or a large platter or salad bowl with arugula. Top it with the chopped fennel, then the red onion. Spread the mandarin segments and black olives around evenly. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste.

Whisk together the oil and vinegar. Lightly dress the salad and serve immediately. (You may or may not need all the dressing but it lasts a long time and is good on any salad. It's the standard dressing.) 

All out winter fruits and frisée salad



This salad really piles on the vivid fruits of winter: orange persimmon, ruby pomegranate, chartreuse avocado, and black olives over crunchy seasonal frisée and caps the celebration with rich umber colored vanilla spiced walnuts for added crunch. Since frisée is typically served in its homeland, France, with bits of crispy bacon, feel free to add it.
serves 4

1 lg head frisée, washed and cored
2 fuyu persimmons, peeled and sliced into thin wedges
1 sm avocado, peeled and chunked
1/4 c pomegranate arils (4 tbsp)
4 pitted dates, chopped
8-10 marinated gigante beans (often at supermarket salad bars)
8-10 Kalamata olives, pitted or not
1/3 c spiced nuts
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
for the dressing:
4 tbsp best quality olive oil, or for a taste change walnut oil
Either 1 tsp fresh lime juice and 1 tbsp fresh lemon juice OR 1 tbsp raspberry vinegar (your taste choice)

Break the frisee into bite sized pieces and line a large salad bowl.
Top with the sliced persimmons, dates, avocado, gigante beans, then the olives and nuts. Scatter the pomegranate arils which should gleam like jewels. Season very lightly with salt and pepper. If you like you can dust with a tiny pinch of nutmeg for tantalizing aroma.

Whisk together the oil and citrus or vinegar. Dress the salad, using only as much as lightly wets the frisee and fruits. Serve immediately.

Polpette al sugo (Meatballs in tomato sauce)
This is one of the most comforting comfort foods I know and red is the color of the moment. So it's perfect to sooth in the holiday frenzy, especially served with garlic mashed potatoes and the fennel salad. This is also one of the easiest recipes. (Photo not mine)
serves 6
for the meatballs
2+ oz crustless white bread, chopped into large crumbs
1/3 c whole milk
1 lb ground lean beef
5 oz ground pork
1 extra lg egg, lightly beaten
3 tbsp breadcrumbs
1 lg garlic clove, grated or minced
3 tbsp flat leaf parsley, minced
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

for the tomato sauce
2  13-14 oz cans or boxes San Marzano or Roma (plum) tomatoes
2 tbsp good quality olive oil
1/2 med yellow onion, minced
1 tsp dried oregano
Sea salt
1/4 c vegetable broth

In a small bowl, soak the white bread in the milk until soft--2-3 minutes. Squeeze out excess liquid and transfer the wet crumbs to a larger bowl. Add the ground beef and pork. Add the beaten egg and mix to combine everything. Stir in the breadcrumbs, garlic, parsley, salt and freshly ground black pepper. Blend everything well. Cover the bowl with clear wrap and refrigerate one hour.

Meanwhile, press the tomatoes through a sieve. (Or else buy chopped or pureed tomatoes to avoid this step.) In a large skillet or frying pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté over med/low heat until soft and translucent, maybe 5-7 minutes. Do not burn. Pour in the tomatoes, reduce heat to low/simmer and simmer 15 minutes to get a dense silky sauce. Season with salt and dried oregano. If it tastes too bland, you can add a pinch of sugar.

Take the meat from the refrigerator and shape it into meatballs the size of a large walnut or a golf ball. Add to the sauce. Cook 5 minutes and roll over. Cook until the meatballs are uniformly brown and totally cooked through, maybe 12 minutes. if the sauce reduces too much, add the vegetable stock. Serve as soon as the meatballs are cooked. You can garnish with chopped fresh flat leaf parsley.

Pumpkin Cornbread
This is a dense, moist, colorful and not at all sweet loaf that travels and freezes well if you don't want to serve it for brunch or dinner with roasted pork or bbq chicken or that big Christmas ham.
makes 2  5 3/4x3 1/4" loaves. These are

1 stick (1/2 c) unsalted butter
1 tbsp light brown or raw sugar
1/4 c maple syrup
2 extra lg eggs
1 1/2 tsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
1 c mashed, cooked pumpkin (yes, canned is okay)
1/4 c sour cream
3/4 c cornmeal
3/4 c all purpose unbleached flour
4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
pinch ground cayenne
1/2 tsp salt

Heat oven to 350º. Grease two 5 3/4 x 3 1/4" loaf pans.
In the bowl of a food processor or mixer or with a hand mixer in a large bowl, cream the butter and sugar and maple syrup. Add the eggs one by one, pumpkin, sour cream and lemon juice. Beat only long enough to make a smooth batter.

In a med bowl, whisk together the flour, cornmeal, baking powder, spices and salt. Slowly add this to the wet batter, beating just enough to combine well.  The dough will look like a mousse.  Pour it into the loaf pans and bake at 350º 30-35 minutes. Cool in pans for 10 minutes at least, then invert and continue cooling.
If you wish to have a light glaze, as soon as the loaves come out of the oven you can brush them with maple syrup.

Castilian Chicken with Apples and Prunes
More seasonal comfort, this time from Spain. Easy prep, ordinary ingredients that blend magically. sorry no photo. But don't let that deter you.
serves 4

6 lg chicken thighs with skin on, bone in
3 tbsp olive oil
1 1/2 med yellow onions, thinly sliced then sliced again into crescents
1/2 med red bell pepper, diced
2 lg garlic cloves, thinly sliced
3 med carrots, peeled and diced
Salt to your taste
2 tbsp sherry vinegar
1 bay leaf
3 cooking apples (Macs, Cortland, Macoun, Gala), cored and quartered
8 pitted prunes

Salt the chicken thighs. Heat the oil in a large frying pan/skillet and fry the chicken over medium heat, turning with tongs until golden on all sides. Remove from the pan and set aside on a plate. in the same pan and oil, put the onions, red pepper, garlic and carrots. Raise heat to medium just until they start to soften, maybe 2 minutes, then lower heat until they are soft. Add salt to your taste. Return the chicken to the pan. Sauté 3 minutes, then add the vinegar. It will bubble. In 2 minutes add 2/3 c water and the bay leaf. Cover the pan and simmer on low/simmer 30 minutes to cook the chicken.

Add the apples and prunes, arranging them between the chicken pieces if you can. Cover the pan again and simmer 20 more minutes until the fruits are soft. Serve hot garnished if you like with minced fresh cilantro, although the Spanish tend not to do that.


Tuesday, December 11, 2018

More Warmth from the Oven and for Santa

Nothing beats heating up the oven in these exceedingly cold dark days to bake heart and soul warming treats.  So here are a few more super easy, glamorous and tasty tricks for treating yourself, your loved ones and Santa himself.  So easy kids can do this too.

Chocolate Truffle Fruit Cake
Forget those old fashioned brandy soaked fruitcakes nobody wants to eat. This is solid chocolate and butter studded with nuts and dried fruits, so rich you can only eat it in very thin slices. In the fridge tightly wrapped in foil and then a plastic bag, it will last a month. And what a gift to give! If that isn't enough, it's ridiculously easy and foolproof to make.  And what a ho ho ho! it delivers.

This recipe makes a 7" cake. I half it to make two gifts although I have also cut it in thirds to make 3 as it's so rich.

6 oz best dark chocolate (at least 70% cocoa solids)
4 oz (1 stick) unsalted butter
4 large/extra lg eggs, whisked together
1/2 c dried apricots, chopped
1/2 c dried figs, chopped
1/2 c dried pitted dates, chopped
1/4 c pecans, chopped and roasted
1/2 tsp orange flower or rose water
Your spices choice in pinches: ground cardamom, cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger, black pepper,

Preheat oven to 350º. Line a 6" cake tin with parchment paper up over the sides enough so you can pull the baked cake out of the pan with it.
In a double boiler/bain marie, over boiling water melt the chocolate with the butter. Whisk to blend.
Remove the top pot with the chocolate from the heat. Carefully whisk in the eggs. Stir in the dried fruits and nuts.   Stir in the perfume water and your favorite spice(s) in pinches. Pour into the parchment lined cake pan. Level the top. Bake at 350º 15-20 minutes until the truffle is firm and a cake tester comes out clean.  Cool in the pan before lifting out.
OPTIONAL: You can dust the top with cocoa.              

Dried Fig Cake (Pan de Higos)
I
've posted this recipe before, my quick easy version of the traditional Spanish winter treat made for the cheese tray but a great partner for the tea cup. It's basically dried figs pressed and flattened and layered with raw almonds, seasoned with lively anise and a hint of brandy. So no gluten, no dairy, no worrisome calories either. Sometimes I think of it as the "fig newton" without the newton. You can wrap it in the parchment paper it gets molded in and tie with a glossy red ribbon if it's a gift.
This recipe makes a  5" cake.


12 oz (3/4 lb) dried black mission figs, stems removed
9-10 raw almonds
1 tsp brandy
1/2 tsp anise seed
pinch ground cloves
pinch of ground cinnamon

 Line a 5" pie plate or dish with parchment paper, bringing the paper up over the sides at least 3 inches.
Put the figs into a food processor or chopper with the brandy, cloves and cinnamon. Process to chop the figs into small pieces. Add the almonds and anise seed. Process just until the figs stick together. Carefully remove from the chopper blade and press into the parchment lined pie dish. Press hard and level the top. (You can also press this with your hands into a ball before you press it into the dish.) The point is to get those figs to stick tightly to each other. Cover the figs with the parchment and put a heavy weight on top for 24 hours. (You can use 2 lb cans of tomatoes or soup, a Buddha, pie weights, anything heavy.) 
    Remove the weight.  Turn the cake out of the dish. Check that it is totally solid and readjust the parchment wrapping.  That's it!
 
Pumpkin Chocolate Chip Muffins
Here's a little something for Christmas morning or Santa Claus on Christmas Eve. They were a customer favorite in my bakery. Spicy with season appropriate ginger, giddy with chocolate chips and colorful for the dark times, their staying power makes them even more magical. The flavor improves by the day! Probably though you will want to snatch these straight from the oven while the chips are gooey chocolate. If you want to take them a step further, you can ice the top with whipped cream cheese. Not only are these tasty for breakfast, they're great with afternoon tea or a dinner or roast pork and beans. Santa will love them! And the kids can make them. (Note: not my photo)

makes 10  3" muffins or 12 smaller ones

1/2 c slivered unblanched almonds
1 2/3 c all purpose unbleached flour
1/2 c light brown or turbinado raw sugar
1 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/4 tsp grated orange zest
1 tsp baking soda
 1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp salt
2 extra lg eggs
1 c plain cooked pumpkin (canned is okay)
1 stick (1/2 c, 4 oz) unsalted butter, melted
1 c chocolate chips

Preheat oven to 350º. Grease 10-12 muffin tins. (see above serving info)
Toast the almonds for 5 minutes at 350º.

In a lg bowl, whisk together flour, spices, orange peel, baking soda, baking powder and salt.
In another lg mixing or mixer bowl, beat the eggs, Add pumpkin, sugar and melted butter. Beat to blend completely. Fold in the chocolate chips.  Slowly pour the dry ingredients into these wet ones mixing only enough to combine.  Using an ice cream scoop, scoop the batter into the prepared muffins cups, filling them to the top (these won't rise that much). Sprinkle the toasted almonds on top of each, lightly pressing them in.  Bake at 350º 20-25 minutes or until the top springs back when poked or a cake tester comes out clean.  Invert onto wire racks to cool. 



Wednesday, December 5, 2018

Warm and well fed

It's the darkest, coldest and possibly busiest time of year. Farm markets don't offer many fresh vegetable options, just mainly roots and greens--which are just what we need now anyway. Still it can be hard with these constraints to feel creative in the pinch so here are a few recipes to pull you through before I return to holiday making treats.

Chicken thighs with quince
Quince is a wonderfully fragrant Mediterranean fruit you can't eat raw so it's prepared many delicious ways. This one is not just simple, tasty and nourishing, it has a touch of festive glamour about it and won't break a budget. if you can't find quince--and it has been in supermarket fresh sections lately because it's in season in California--you can substitute pears and add a dash of rosewater for a similarly fragrant and elegant effect.

Serves 6
1/4 c corn or other vegetable oil (Olive oil might burn)
2 lbs chicken thighs (6-8 depending on their size)
2 med/lg onions, finely diced
salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1/2 tsp paprika
1/4 tsp ground chili pepper like Aleppo, meaning semi hot
3 c chicken broth
1 bunch fresh cilantro, leaves finely chopped
pinch of saffron threads
1/2 tsp ground ginger
2 tbsp dark seedless raisins OR 8 pitted dates (these are the "sweetener")
1 lb quince, cut in half, cored, then pieces cut in half again
4 tbsp ghee or unsalted butter

Season the chicken with paprika, chili and black pepper. Heat the oil in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Add chicken, skin side down, and brown it. Flip it with tongs and sauté the other side 5 more minutes to brown it. Remove chicken from the oil and put in the onions. Sauté just long enough to soften: don't burn or brown them, just soften, maybe 3 minutes.

Now put the chicken and onions in a large casserole pot. Season with salt and pepper.  Cover with the chicken broth, adding more or water if you can't get the chicken covered. Add saffron, ginger and cilantro leaves. Add raisins/dates. Bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer and cover the pot. Simmer 30-40 minutes until the chicken in close to falling off its bones.

While it's cooking, melt butter/ghee in a small frying or sauté pan. Add the cut quince and sauté 5 minutes. Add to the chicken pot and be sure they're tender before you cut off all the cooking.
Serve with couscous or fregola or freekah or rice. And a crunchy green salad. This is a terrific meal!

Pear, Watercress and Pecorino Salad
This is a light, colorful winter salad to which I often add a few bright red pomegranate arils for a holiday effect. Watercress is very nourishing--a good source of hard to find Vitamin E, riboflavin, Vitamin B6 and Vitamin A-- so don't overlook it in the market.
serves 4

3 tbsp good quality olive oil
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
2 bunches watercress, washed, dried and chopped
1 lg ripe pear, cored and thinly sliced
4 oz Pecorino cheese at room temperature (this is a salty Italian sheep cheese like cow milk parmesan)
Optional: 1 tbsp pomegranate arils

In a med/large serving bowl, whisk together the oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper until blended. Add the watercress and toss to dress it.  Divide the salad between 4 plates. Top each with pear slices and optionally pomegranate. With a carrot peeler, shave tin flakes of cheese over each salad. Serve immediately.

Beet Borscht with Beef
For those in the colder climes, here's a very hearty meal in a bowl that carries the festive red color of the season. I was going to include it in January in a winter soup post (A magazine is publishing some of my recipes then) but am throwing it in now because you can assemble it quickly, store it in the fridge for a few days--flavor intensifies--and have a nourishing heartwarming meal that leaves the budget open to more Christmas shopping. This is as old fashioned and fortifying as goodness gets. And you can freeze the leftovers for later in winter.

serves 4 as a meal
2 lbs beef short ribs or shin
5 c water
4 c beef broth
4 med/lg red beets, peeled (wash and chop the greens)
1 tbsp salt
3 med boiling potatoes, peeled and diced into bite size chunks
1 sm carrot, peeed and grated
1/2 sm (3/4 lb) white cabbage, shredded
6 tbsp tomato paste
4 black peppercorns
freshly ground black pepper to your taste
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 tsp sugar
1 bay leaf
to serve: sour cream
1/2 bunch fresh dill, fronds finely chopped (no stems)

In a large soup pot, combine the water and broth. Add the beef. Bring to a boil over high heat, lower heat to low/med, cover the pot and cook 30 minutes.  Add salt and whole red beets. Boil 10 minutes then fish out the red beets with a slotted spoon. Let them cool and while they do add all the remaining ingredients to the soup pot including the beet greens. Continue cooking the soup.  When the beets are cool enough to handle, grate them and add to the soup. Simmer for 1 1/2-2 hrs or until the beef is falling off its bones.
Remove from heat, remove bay leaf and the meatless bones.

Now  you have two options: you can cool the soup to room temperature and refrigerate it overnight or several hours, then skim off the fat that will harden on top--easy way to do this. Reheat and serve. OR you can skim off the fat while the soup is hot and serve it.

To serve: ladle the borscht into very large bowls, top with a dollop of sour cream and a good sprinkle of fresh dill. Provide a side plate, fork and knife for cutting up the large pieces of beef. Dig in and celebrate the season.

Italian Bread Soup with Tomatoes (Pappa al Pomodoro)
More on the festive red theme, this time an elegant way to use up whatever bread you've got lying around haunting you. This amazingly zesty tomato "soup" is actually as thick as bread pudding so think of it as a momentary and seasonally robust alternative to ordinary tomato sauced pasta, a fortifying dish to keep you going to all the parties and shopping orgies of the season.

serves 4-5
2 leek or med onions
1/4 c olive oil
2 c crushed tomatoes (canned or boxed is fine)
pinch of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1/4 tsp crushed chili flakes
1 tsp dried basil leaves
1/2 lb (about 1/2 round loaf) crusty bread, going stale is fine
1 3/4 c beef broth  (if you are vegetarian use a hearty vegetable broth)
1/2 c coarsely grated parmesan, pecorino or asiago cheese
To Garnish: fresh basil leaves
1/4 c best quality olive oil

If using leeks, cut them in 1/4" disks and wash thoroughly, then drain. If using onions, peel and cut into very thin rings.

In a heavy gauge casserole, heat olive oil over med heat, add leeks/onions and sauté over med/low heat 10-12 minutes to soften and begin to caramelize. Add tomatoes and dried basil, stirring to blend. Add crushed chili flakes, black pepper and pinch of salt. Cover and simmer 30 minutes.

While that's happening, cut the bread into 1/2" cubes, crust and all. Heat the beef broth to a boil in a saucepan.
When the tomatoes have simmered 30 minutes add the bread cubes, stirring to blend. Simmer 5 minutes. Add the boiing broth, stirring the blend. Then quickly remove from heat. Add the cheese but do not stir it in. Cover the casserole and let it stand 1 hour.

Open it up, stir and taste for salt and pepper, adjusting if necessary.
Serve it either lightly reheated over the lowest flame or at room temp as it is. Top with chopped fresh basil leaves and 1-2 tsp best olive oil on each serving.  With a crunchy green salad topped by olives, you're good to go.







Saturday, December 1, 2018

A Forgotten Fabulous Holiday Baking Treat

I forgot to include Greek kourabeides, almond butter cookies often made for holidays, in the last post. They are very festive and eye catching, the powdered sugar coating reminiscent of snow. These yummy round butter balls are also sometimes known as Mexican wedding cookies but they're best for right now as a holiday treat. And again, easy enough to do with the kids. I've been making these so long I included this recipe in my first ever book, Captn's Cook, The Captain's Cookbook.
makes 5 dozen

1 lb sweet butter
1/2 c powdered (confectioner's) sugar
1 egg yolk
1 jigger cognac or brandy
1 tsp vanilla
1 tsp almond extract
1/2 c chopped almonds
4 c unbleached all purpose flour
Optional: some people including me add a pinch of ground cloves
3 c powdered (confectioner's sugar)

Preheat oven to 300º. Line 2 cookie sheets with parchment paper or else grease them with butter.

In a mixer or processor with paddle, blend the butter and 1/2 c powdered sugar until creamy and light. Add egg yolk, cognac/brandy, vanilla, almond extract and chopped almonds. Add the pinch of cloves if you choose to. Process until the almonds are pasty and the mixture is blended. Gradually add in the flour to form a soft dough. Roll pieces of dough in your floured hands to make walnut size balls and place them in a single layer on the cookie sheets.  Bake 20 minutes or until golden, not really browned. Cool on racks. Put the 3 c powdered sugar in a large bowl and roll each cookie in it to coat. Store or pack in airtight tins. 

Friday, November 30, 2018

Homemade Treats to Brighten Cold, Dark Days

Rotten chilly weather is a great excuse to warm the house and heart with treats from the oven. And nothing says heartfelt like homemade when it comes to gift giving. There's love in that jam, those cookies, that carrot bread. The message is: I'm giving you the gift of life. That's what all the giving and baking is about at this cold, dark time of year: doing what we can to keep our loved ones alive...with spices that warm the body (cinnamon, ginger, nutmeg, clove), fat that gets the metabolism cranking up the heat (buttery pastries), vitamin loaded dried and preserved fruits... .

Nothing needs to be complicated or frustrating. In fact, my all time favorite holiday gift--I mean favored by all the recipients who remind me the rest of the year they're waiting for them--are vanilla spiced walnuts which are so simple a six-year-old can make them. I buy a bunch of tins (the Dollar Stores are great for this adventure) and fill'em up.  Here yet again, because I post this every year, is the way to go: (In fact I was at a Dollar Store today piling on the tins when an elderly woman said: "You must be baking cookies." "Vanilla walnuts," I said. "Oh!," she exclaimed. "I like that idea. Tell me what to do."

These recipes deliver cooking confidence and joy to kids. They can make them all.

Vanilla Spiced Walnuts
You can double or triple this recipe and you will probably want to so you have enough for yourself. They're handy snacking, perfect for cocktails and delightful in green salad. Plus they will last months in an airtight tin or jar in the fridge.

This will fill about 3 sm/med tins. 
1 lb walnut halves
1/2 c granulated sugar
2 1/2 tbsp corn oil
1 tbsp good quality vanilla extract
1/4 tsp salt
couple grinds of the pepper mill
1/2 tsp ground coriander
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1/2 tsp ground allspice
pinch cayenne

Preheat oven to 325".
Blanch walnuts 1 min in boiling water. Drain well in a colander. While still hot put in a large bowl and toss with the sugar and corn oil and vanilla. Let stand 10 minutes to absorb. Arrange on a rimmed baking sheet (for easy clean up line it with parchment paper) in a single layer. Bake 30-35 min, checking every 10 minutes and moving them around with a metal spatula so they don't brown unevenly. They should get brown and crispy.

While the bake, combine all the spices, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Toss the hot nuts in the spices being sure everyone gets coated. Cool before packing into airtight tins.
Yes something so fabulous and beloved is that easy.

Orange Almond Cake
This is the gift for the gluten-free dairy free diner in your midst. A cake with no flour or butter that happens to be delicious for everyone else as well. And it's very now. Tis the season to celebrate citrus, which soaked up the sunshine and turned it into Vitamin C we need these days. This flat disk of a cake is moist, rich and sensually fragrant. Perfect for a cup of tea on a cold, dark afternoon. Perfect as a hostess gift and in a lunch box. (Photo not mine)
serves 8
2 lg navel oranges
6 extra large eggs
1 1/2 c ground raw almonds
1 c granulated sugar
1 tsp orange flower water
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
pinch of salt
1 tsp baking powder

Wash the oranges. Do not peel. Put them in a pot of boiling water (enough water to cover them) 30 minutes or until they are very soft. Drain, cool and cut into quarters, removing any seeds. 

Preheat oven to 350º. Generously butter, grease or oil (you could use coconut)  a 9" round cake pan.
Puree the oranges skin and all in a food processor, blender or chopper. A bit of skin may stay in tact: that's okay.  
In a large bowl, beat the eggs until thick. Add the ground almonds, salt, sugar, baking powder, cardamom orange flower water and finally the orange puree. Blend well. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and shake lightly to distribute it evenly, removing air pockets.  Bake at 350º 50-60 minutes or until the cake feels firm to your touch (you can't leave a fingerprint in it). Remove from the oven, let cool 10 minutes and then invert it onto a serving dish.
You can serve this with nutmeg scented whipped cream or candied orange slices sprinkled with powdered sugar.

Basic Biscotti
These are my favorite non-sweet sweet. They're the best friend a cup of coffee will ever have yet they are also perfect for teething babies to gnaw on. They go in a lunch box and since they don't go stale quickly, they can be shipped. A tin of them is a perfect gift--a gift of good health too because almonds, which are the core of these biscotti, have protein, fiber, hard to find Vitamin E, potassium and riboflavin--the last 3 protection from the ravages of winter. Biscotti are double baked cookies. (Not my photo)

1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 c)
2 extra lg eggs
1 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 tsp almond extract
1 c granulated sugar
2 c all purpose, unbleached flour
3/4 c chopped raw almonds
(Those are the basic ingredients. You can experiment with spices if you choose although I'd recommend only the slightest hint of whichever one you choose: allspice, cardamom, nutmeg, ginger, anise or rose water.)

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter a large baking sheet or line it with a silicon pad or parchment paper.
On another baking sheet toast the almonds at 350 5 min.  When they cool, chop them into small pieces.
Om a mixer or mixing bowl, cream butter and sugar until smooth. One at a time beat in the eggs.
In a separate bowl, whisk together flour and baking powder, then carefully add it to the wet batter in the mixer, mixing only enough to blend. Do not overmix flour. Stir in the vanilla and almond extract and any spice you have chosen. Fold in the chopped almonds.

On the prepared baking sheet, form the batter into 4 oblong bars, each about 4 1/2" x 2". Bake these at 340º 20-25 minutes until they are golden and no longer soft. Remove from oven. Don't panic if they've sprawled!

With a sharp serrated knife cut each bar into 1/2" thick slices. Now you see the biscotti form! Save the ends for scrumptious snacking with your next coffee.  Lay the slices side down flat on a baking sheet, return to the oven and continue to bake at 350º about 20 minutes, until they are lightly browned on both sides.  Cool.  Store in airtight tins or wrap in foil and tie with a big red bow.

Fresh Ginger Gingerbread
Tis the season for ginger, a body warming spice, so all sorts of gingerbread concoctions are out there. This one is moist, dark, rich with molasses and very yummy plus easy easy to make.  It's about as all American traditional as you can get. Serve with whipped cream. Or vanilla ice cream. Take it to a party, bake it for the kids, share it at your coffeeklatch or Alice in Wonderland tea party. Don't be frightened by the long ingredient list: it's mostly spices. This is a spicy cake!

makes one 8" square cake

2 oz fresh ginger root, peeled
4 tbsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
1/4 c raw or light brown sugar
2 extra lg eggs
1/2 c molasses
1 tbsp dark rum
3/4 c boiling water
1/2 c whole wheat flour
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp baking powder
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp salt
1/3 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp gound cloves
1/8 tsp ground allpice
1/4 tsp dry mustard
1 c all purpose, unbleached flour

Preheat oven to 375º. Butter and lightly flour an 8" square baking pan.
With the motor of a food processor running, drop in pieces of ginger to chop it. If you do not have a processor, grate the ginger. In the bowl of the processor or a mixer, cream the butter, ginger and brown sugar. Add the eggs one at a time and blend carefully.  

In a small bowl or large cup with pouring spout, combine the rum, molasses and boiling water. With the mixer running, pour this into the butter/egg batter. 

In another small bowl whisk together   all the spices and mustard, salt, flours, baking soda and powder. Quickly beat these into the batter, not mixing longer than needed to blend. (Never overwork flour.)
The batter should be liquid. Pour it into the prepared pan and bake in the center of the oven at 375º 30-35 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.  

Cool 10 minutes in the pan. Then using a small metal spatula loosen the edges and invert the pan to drop the cake onto your serving plate. It may not fall out at once so leave it on the cooling rack a few more minutes.  Serve cut in squares and topped with whipped cream.

Apple Oatmeal Squares

Anybody can send or bring a box of fancy French pastries but nothing will quicken the heart as much as the sight of something as homespun and homemade as these healthy apple oatmeal squares especially in a house with kids. And after all Christmas is about kids. These always sold out immediately at my bakery. They are an old fashioned  New England favorite because they're sturdy but not necessarily sweet. You can serve 'em for breakfast, pack them for lunch and enjoy them at tea. The best news is that you can make them by hand without processors and mixers. (Not my photo)

makes 15  3" squares
2 c all purpose unbleached flour
1 tsp baking soda
3/4 tsp salt
1 1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground nutmeg
3 c rolled oats (not instant)
1 1/3 c light brown sugar
1/2 c currants soaked in cranberry juice
2 sticks (1 c) unsalted butter
2 extra lg eggs
2 tsp vanilla extract
5 Granny Smith apples
1 c chopped walnuts, toasted
1 tbsp butter, melted

Preheat oven to 350º. Line a 9"x13" halfsheet pan with aluminum foil and go up the sides with it. Cover the foil with 1 tbsp melted butter. Chill pan until ready to use.

Melt the 2 stick of butter.
in a lg mixing bowl, sift of whisk together flour, baking soda, salt and spices. Stir in sugar and oats. 
Whisk the vanilla and egga one at a time into the melted butter. Slowly add this wet mix to the flour mix and stir to blend into a dough. Wooden spoons always do the job. Press half the dough into the chilled pan to form the bottom crust of the squares. It will not be very thick. Return to the refrigerator.

Line a large baking sheet with parchment paper or waxed paper. Roll the remaining dough into a thin rectangle the size of the half sheet pan with the crust (9" x13"). If you have trouble use your hands to make a patchwork out of it: nobody will notice once it's baked.  Chill this top crust.

Peel, quarter and thinly slice the apples into crescents. Arrange the apples in overlapping rows along the bottom crust until it is completely covered. Sprinkle with the nuts and drained currants. Now cover the apples with the top crust on that large sheet pan, pressing down on the edges to bond it lightly to the bottom crust. This seals in the apple juices.  Bake 25-30 minutes at 350º until the top is golden brown.
Cool in the pan. Chill in the refrigerator before cutting into squares. (For easiest cutting, invert the chilled pan onto a large cookie sheet, peel off the aluminum foil lawyer and invert back onto a cutting board or another baking sheet to cut.

Rum Raisin Pound Cake
Tis a gift to be simple and old fashioned raisin pound cake has that talent. This one if very buttery with a....well, a....rum punch.  Seal it in foil, wrap it with red ribbon and you've gifted the best.

makes one 9"x5' loaf
1 1/2 stick (3/4 c) unsalted butter, very soft and mushy
1 1/4 c all purpose, unbleached flour
1 tsp baking powder
1 1/2 c dark, seedless raisins
3 extra lg eggs
1 egg yolk
2/3 c granulated sugar
1/3 c dark rum
pinch of ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter and lightly flour a 9"x5" loaf pan. To keep the bottom of the loaf from getting too brown, line the bottom of the pan with a piece of wax paper and butter it.

Sprinkle 1 tbsp lfour over the raisins to coat them so they don't sink to the bottom of the batter.
In a lg mixer or mixing bowl, beat the eggs and yolk with the sugar 5 min until the blend is light and fluffy.  Add rum and beat til blended.  

In a smaller bowl, sift or whisk together the flour and baking powder. With a wooden spoon or spatula fold this into the egg mixture, not stirring too much.  Fold in the butter, then swirl in the raisins.  

Pour the batter into the loaf pan, leveling the top. Bake in the center of the oven 1 hour or until a cake tester comes out clean. The cake should have begun to shrink from the sides of the pan. Remove from oven and cool at least 10 minutes before inverting onto a wire rack.

To serve, slice very thin, making several slices per portion.




                     

Monday, November 26, 2018

Using up what you've got

Like me you probably have a fridge overflowing with bits, pieces and chunks of everything. And since the holiday baking and making season is upon us, everything must go.  So before we get into holiday baking and making, this post has a few great ideas for using up what's still left from turkey time. Or what may be left during the month of feasting ahead.  (Advance apologies: no photos)

Club Sandwich Salad
This should get those last bits of turkey out of the way.

serves 6
1 lb cooked turkey meat, chunked into large bite-size pieces
2 medium rip tomatoes, cored and sliced into thin wedges, wedges cut into half moons
1/2 lb (8 0z) bacon, cooked to a crisp and drained and broken into bits
10 inner leaves of romaine lettuce, washed and dried**
1/2 sm red onion, minced
1 1/2 c croutons
** If the romaine scare is still happening, use cylindrical leaf lettuce instead. Some of it is red tipped.

for the dressing
1/4 c mayonnaise
1/4 c Greek yogurt (low fat is fine)
1/4 c olive oil
2 tbsp Dijon mustard
5 garlic cloves, minced

Whisk together all the dressing ingredients.
In your serving bowl, break the lettuce into salad pieces. Top with the remaining salad ingredients. Add the dressing and stir to blend. Serve proudly, maybe with a cup of soup.

Apple Bread Pudding
This is an apple fan's delight: apples, applesauce, apple jelly. Plus raisins to delight the kids. Presented in a glass bowl with caramelize apples on top nobody would ever suspect bread pudding. So get out the leftover raisin bread and those untouched apples.
serves 4-6

5 thin slices raisin bread (if you don't have raisin bread, use a buttery bread and add 1/4 c raisins plumped in water with a pinch of cinnamon.
2 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
3 extra lg eggs
1 tbsp sugar
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 c whipping cream OR evaporated whole milk nonsweetened
1/4 cup smooth applesauce
1/4 c apple jelly
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1 Granny smith or large Cortland or 2 Macintosh apples, peeled
1 tbsp light brown sugar

Preheat oven to 325º. With 1 tsp butter, grease a 6" round souffle or other small, deep baking dish.
Cut the crusts off the bread.With 1 tbsp butter one side of each slice, then cut each slice into quarters.
Peel the apple and cut it into wafer thin uniform wedges, discarding all seeds.
On the bottom of the buttered dish, make a layer of bread, then top that with a layer of apples in a pinwheel formation. Sprinkle half the nutmeg over the apples. Divide the remaining butter in half, then cut each half into tiny pieces and spread 1/2 of them over the apples. Make a layer of bread on top. Top this with another layer using all the apples, in a pinwheel formation. Sprinkle with the remaining nutmeg and butter bits. (NOTE: If you are adding raisins separately, spread them between the bread and apple layers.)

In a small bowl, whisk together the eggs, sugar and cinnamon to blend thoroughy.
In a medium saucepan combine cream, pple jelly and apple sauce. Over med/hi heat, bring to a simmer. Cut heat immediately and gradually in a steady stream whisk in the egg mixture. Pour this custard over the bread/apple layers. It should just reach the top apple layer. Let it stand 10 minutes to saturate the bread.

Place a 9 x 13" baking pan (with sides) in the center of the oven. Put the pudding dish in the middle and fill the pan with enough water to come halfway up the sides of the souffle pan. Bake 45 minutes or until the custard looks firm. Remove from the oven.

Raise oven temp to 500º. Sprinkle the brown sugar over the top apple layer and return the souffle pan to the oven. The pre-heat red light should still be on when you start. As soon as it goes off and the oven temp is actually 500º the sugar should've melted over the apples and browned them. Remove immediately! Serve warm or at room temp as is or topped with fresh ginger spiced whipped cream.

Turkey Stuffed Potatoes (or Chicken)
This is another way to clean out the leftover turkey bits without being so obvious. Or you can use chicken.
serves 6

6 oval shaped baking potatoes
6 tbsp unsalted butter
1 1/4 c minced turkey or chicken meat
6 oz fresh mushrooms (button or shiitake)
2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, minced
3/4-1 c Half n' Half or low fat yogurt
1/4 tsp celery seed
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1/2 tsp dried rosemary leaves
2 tbsp chopped pimiento
1 c frozen peas
1 c low fat plain yogurt (Greek for thickness)

Bake potatoes until tender enough to eat. Cool. Slice a very thin piece off one end of each potato so it will stand upright. Cut 1 1/2" piece off what will be the top end and carefully scoop out the inside, leaving a shall 1/2" thick.

Heat oven to 450º. Butter an 8-9" square baking pan.
Put the potato insides in a large mixing bowl, add all other ingredients except the peas and 1 c low fat yogurt. Mash/blend. Use as much half n half as you need to make this smooth and creamy. Taste to adjust salt level.  Fill each potato skin with this mixture carefully packing it in. Put a small piece of butter on top of each. Stand them up in the baking dish. Bake at 450º 15-20 minutes.

Meanwhile steam the peas until just tender.
To serve, spoon some  yogurt over each potato, then some peas and optionally a bit of minced flat leaf parsley.

Harvest Casserole
How to use up all those vegetable stragglers in the bins. A special for the vegetarians. Don't be put off by the long ingredient list: it's just bits of everything.
serves 4

1 c long grain/Basmati rice
1/3 c brown lentils
2 c veg broth
2 tbsp olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp dried thyme
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 c pine nuts
1/2 c canned kidney or cannellini beans, drained
1/4 med red or green cabbage, shredded
1 lg onion, peeled and chopped
1/2 med green bell pepper, in thin strips
2 carrots, peeled and sliced into thin disks
1 parsnip, peeled and sliced into thin disks
any bits of rutabaga, chopped into bite-sized pieces
1/4 c canned corn or frozen peas
2 stalks celery, cleaned and diced
1 c any fresh vegetable, chopped
1 tbsp cilantro or flat parsley leaves, finely chopped
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 lb mozzarella, gruyere or cheddar cheese, grated

 Heat oven to 350º.
Put rice and lentils in a saucepan with the veg broth and 1/2 c water. Cover and cook over medium heat until liquid is gone. Remove cover. If you prefer, you can now flavor the rice with a bit of soy sauce or curry powder or just salt and pepper--your taste preference here!

In a large skillet, heat olive oil on medium heat. Add garlic ,onion and pine nuts. Sauté until onion is soft and translucent, 3-5 min. Add dried herbs (thyme, oregano). Add parsnip, carrots, cabbage and celery plus 2 tbsp water.    Cover the pot and cook 5 min.  Add peas, remaining vegetables and beans. Cover and cook 5 more minutes. Uncover and stir in the fresh green herb (cilantro or parsley), salt and pepper.

Put the rice/lentil mix into a medium size oven casserole, souffle dish or deep dish pie pan and flatten it into a layer. Put the vegetable mix on top and flatten into a layer. Cover this with the grated cheese.

Heat at 350º 20-30 minutes. If you have this in a proper container you can also microwave it.
Serve with a green salad and your leftover  cranberry sauce.

Cilantro or Parsley Pesto
Here's how to get rid of the green herbs wilting away by now: convert them instantly into a "pesto" sauce for spaghetti or squash ravioli. It's very simple:

in the bowl of a food processor or chopped put the herbs you have with 2 cloves garlic, 2 tbsp grated parmesan cheese, lots of freshly ground black pepper, sea salt to your taste and process to a paste. Pour in and process or stir in as much olive oil as it takes to make this a sauce.
   You can store this in the fridge in an airtight container for up to 5 days or you could freeze it forlater when on a cold winter night you can enjoy all the good of those greens.






Friday, November 16, 2018

More than turkey in the oven

Two announcements before I share trusted old baking recipes for the Thanksgiving table.
1) The Washington Post on November 16 ran a scary report about widespread salmonella coming from raw turkey. The outbreak is already months old, many states big and showing now sign of stopping. What's scarier is that the industry controlled USDA, remember Perdue is running it, refuses to release any results of its research into how, why and exactly where this all began. It's protecting major turkey producers and processing plants. SO BE CAREFUL HANDLING TURKEY. Wash your hands after you touch it, every time! Use boiling water to sterilize any utensil or counter/cutting surface it touches. Then wipe with vinegar. And finally, cook big bird to well done, very well done.

2) On a more joyful note, ZEST a magazine of Maine turned its holiday issue into a cookbook of its readers' favorite recipes and 3 of the 15 are mine. You've read them here! Nepali chicken curry, Greek Island Chickpea and Brown rice soup with cinnamon, fresh flaked cod with chickpeas and harissa. The winter issue coming in January will feature my winter soup favorites.

And now back to our program for Thanksgiving. For the home cook or the invited guest, here are a few simple, tasty ways to bake something that makes the day. Each features a traditional ingredient of the meal and each is easy enough for kids to feel proud of contributing. (for the record: the photos that follow are not mine. I haven't had the time to bake all this stuff again.)

Cornmeal Spoon Bread
I always serve BBQ sauced turkey so cornbread in some form is a must. I have several recipes, some for muffins and puffins. This is the easiest one so I'm using it this year.
    serves 6 (you can double it and use a 9X13 baking pan.

2 1/2 c water
1 c yellow fine or med grain cornmeal
1 tsp salt
1/2 tsp chipotle chili powder
1/2 c corn kernels (cooked and drained, and yes canned is okay)
1 c buttermilk
4 eggs, well beaten
2 tbsp unsalted butter

Preheat oven to 400º. Butter an 8" sq baking pan.
In a sm/med bowl stir 1/2 c water into the cornmeal.
Bring the remaining 2 c water to a boil. Add salt, chili powder, and lower heat. Slowly stirring constantly the wet cornmeal. Cook 1 minute, stirring to avoid clumps. Remove from heat. Using a mixer, beat in the buttermilk, eggs and butter and make a smooth batter. Fill the buttered pan, smoothing the top. You can, if you like the color sprinkle a tiny bit of paprika all around. Bake 30-35 min until a cake tester comes out clean.

Yam Biscuits
These moist colorful biscuits with the tantalizing fragrance of oranges easily compete with all the inevitable sweet potato casseroles and usually win as something different for a change. They're also perfect the next day as the bread makings of a turkey/cranberry sauce sandwich.

makes 9 biscuits (double recipe to feed a crowd or have leftovers)

1 1/4 c all purpose unbleached flour
2 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp light brown or turbinado raw sugar
1/4 cup vegetable shortening
1 c mashed cooked yams (1 16-17 oz can will do it)
1/4 tsp orange peel finely zested or grated
2 tbsp whipping or heavy cream
optional: if you have it put 1/4 tsp orange flower water in

Preheat oven to 400º. Butter two large cookie sheets or line them with parchment paper.
In the bowl of a food processor or mixer, combine flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, sugar and orange peel. Add shortening and yams--and orange flower water if you have it. Mix just long enough to make a soft dough. 

On a floured board or large spread of waxed paper on the counter, pat or roll the dough into any shape 1/2" thick. With a 2 1/2" round cookie cutter or a drinking glass with the opening about that size (use it upside down), cut out as many biscuits as possible. Place each on a cookie sheet, leaving 2" between them. Gather up the scraps and form another ball, pat iti down to 1/2" thick and continue cutting biscuits as long as there's dough.  With a pastry brush or piece of waxed paper, brush the top of each biscuit with the cream, carefully coating it. 

Bake at 400º 18-20 min or until they are very light brown (almost imperceptible). With a spatula transfer them to a wire rack to cool down and serve immediately.

Pumpkin Cream Cheese Bread
Throw out all your ideas about pumpkin bread and think cheese cake! That will give you insight into this divinely rich, creamy, raisin flecked loaf. And if you make two, you can count on one freezing really well. This is a great hostess gift too. Don't panic at the long list of ingredients: many are spices. This is a flavorful loaf!
makes one 7 1/2" x 3 3/4" loaf (medium size)

2 tbsp maple syrup (use only real syrup)
1/2 c light brown or raw turbinado sugar
4 tbsp (1/2 stick) unsalted butter
3 oz cream cheese
3 extra lg eggs
1 1/2 c plain mashed pumpkin (canned is fine)
1 tbsp orange rind, finely grated or zested
1 c all-purpose, unbleached flour
2/3 c seedless dark raisins
1/2 c whole wheat flour
3/4 tsp baking soda
1/4 tsp baking powder
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/3 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1/2 tsp ground ginger

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter the loaf pan.
In a lg mixer or mixing bowl, cream butter, cream cheese, brown sugar and maple syrup until smooth.
Add pumpkin, then the eggs one at a time, beating to keep the mixture smooth. Stir in the orange peel.

Whisk or sift together the flours, baking soda, baking powder and all the spices.  Add this to the wet batter, mixing just long enough to incorporate completely. Don't over beat.  Fold in the raisins with a wooden spoon. 

Spoon the batter into the butter loaf pan, leveling and smoothing the top. Bake at 350º in the center of the oven 50-60 min until a cake tester comes out clean. Cool in the pan 10 minutes before turning it upside down and removing the bread to cool on a wire rack. 

Cranberry Muffins
Here's how to sneak in the berries for those who can't stand the traditional cranberry sauce. They're mighty tasty, pretty and perfect with turkey. In fact you could make a very colorful, appealing bread basket mixing these with the yam biscuits.

makes 10 3" muffins

1/2 c (1 stick) unsalted butter
3/4 c granulated sugar
2 extra large eggs
1 1/2 tsp baking powder
1 tsp baking soda
2 tbsp fresh orange juice
2 tsp orange peel, finely grated or zested
1/2 tsp salt
1 1/2 c whole cranberries
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 c buttermilk
2 c all purpose unbleached flour
1/2 c chopped walnuts
(optional: 1 tsp orange flower water)

Preheat oven to 375º. Butter or line with paper cups 10-12 muffin cups. (A standard muffin tin is 6 or 12.)
In a small saucepan over med/high heat, combine 1/2 c cranberries, 1/2 c sugar and 1 tbsp orange juice. Cook, stirring, 5 min as though making jam. (The cranberries should soften and burst, the sugar should melt and start to thicken.) Remove from heat, plunge bottom of pan into cold water to stop the cooking and set aside.

Lightly toast the walnuts 3 min in the preheating oven.
In a large mixer or mixing bowl, cream butter. Beat in sugar and cream until the mixture is fluffy. This is critical to get light, high muffins. Add eggs, one at a time, scraping down the bowl as you beat into a smooth puree. Add 1 tbsp orange juice, orange peel and the cooked cranberry mixture. Mix just enough to blend.

Sift or whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt and spices. Add half to the wet batter. Mix just enough to incorporate. Add the buttermilk, optional orange flower water and remaining flour mixture. Mix thoroughly but do not over beat. With a spatula or wooden spoon, fold in the remaining cranberries and chopped walnuts.  Spoon the batter into the buttered muffin tins, filling close to the top and leveling. Shake out air pockets. 

Bake at 375º 20 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.
While they are baking, make a glaze by whisking together in a shallow bowl
2 tbsp granulated sugar
2 1/2 tbsp fresh orange juice
pinch nutmeg

When the muffins come out of the oven, let them rest 5 minutes. Then remove each and holding it upside down gently rotate it in the glaze to cover the top. Turn right side up and cool on wire racks.

Absolutely Apple Bread
In case nobody's bringing or making apple pie. Or even if they are. This is a trifecta for apple fans: fresh apples, apple sauce and apple cider all together. All it needs on the serving table is apple butter! Don't be turned away by the long list of ingredients: they're all the usual stuff in the cupboard and this is a cinch to assemble.

makes 3 sm loaves (5 3/4" x 3 1/4")

1/4 tsp ground ginger
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 c chopped walnuts
1/2 c seedless dark raisins
1 lg Granny Smith apple, very finely diced (you need 2 c of a tart apple)
6 tbsp (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted
2 tbsp maple syrup (only the real deal)
1/4 c light brown or raw turbinado sugar
2 extra lg eggs
1/2 tsp vanilla
1/2 c applesauce (jarred is okay)
2 tbsp fresh apple cider
3 tbsp plain yogurt OR heavy cream
1 c all purpose unbleached flour
1/2 tsp salt
2 1/2 tsp baking powder
1/2 tsp ground allspice
1 tsp ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 350º. Grease the loaf pans.
Sprinkle the finely diced apple with the ginger and cinnamon.
In a lg mixer or mixing bowl, combine the melted butter, maple syrup and sugar until blended. One at a time, add the eggs, beating to mix.  Add vanilla, applesauce, cider and yogurt/cream. Blend.

In a separate bowl, whisk or sift together the flours, salt, baking powder, baking soda, allspice and nutmeg. Carefully stir this into the wet batter. Fold in the spiced apples, raisins and walnuts. Spoon the batter into the buttered pans. Bake at 350º 45 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean. Cool 10 minutes.