Tuesday, July 23, 2019

Oil and Salt: summer vitals

In the sweat of summer, the body needs hydration and lubrication. So Mother Nature revs up watery offerings like berries, melons, peaches, plums, tomatoes, summer squashes including zucchini and cucumbers as well as fish. Mediterranean cultures indulge in what they call "olive oil foods" and lots of salty ingredients like capers, anchovies, olives and other salt cured foods including feta cheese. Oily foods lube the muscles, salty foods help retain body water. In Asia, chili is natural air conditioning: it makes the body sweat, which means you are dehumidifying yourself the way an air conditioner does a room.  So hot, salty, watery and oily should be the summer eating bases to touch.
Here's watery food:

Fruit soup
There are many versions of melon soup. I just had watermelon habanero featured as the night's special at a local restaurant. This version, which I included in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, combines melon with other watery fruits.
Serves 5-6

1 banana, peeled
1 apple, cored, peeled and quartered
1 peach, peeled and quartered
½ cantaloupe, peeled and chunked
2-3 tbsp. honey or real maple syrup
1cup plain yogurt
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
handful fresh mint leaves
1 tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
1¼ cup unsweetened apple juice or, if you prefer, orange juice
Optional garnish: fresh blueberries

Combine everything but the apple juice in a blender or food processor. Start to puree and after a few seconds pour the apple juice in as a steady stream to make a soup. It should be thick enough to eat with a spoon but not too thick to pour.Chill.

Serve garnished with fresh blueberries. 

Sesame Cucumber Salad
This is a Himalayan recipe for a cooling salad often served with fiery food. That makes it fine for a fiery day.
  Serves 4-6

2 ripe med slicing cucumbers, peeled, split and seeded or 4 Persian cucumbers
1 tsp coarse including kosher salt
1 tbsp (heaping) sesame seeds (if you can find roasted that speeds this up)
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 large lemon, juice only
1 sm green chili, seeded and minced
1 tbsp mustard oil or 1 tbsp veg oil with 1/8 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
optional garnish: a handful of chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Dry roast the sesame seeds in a small nonstick frying pan if they are not already roasted. Cool slightly and grind them to powder (a coffee grinder is perfect) or smash them in a mortar.

Cut the cucumbers into 2” lengths, then slice off thin strips into a medium bowl. Blend in ½ tsp salt and let the cucumbers stand for 15 minutes. Drain off any water that’s accumulated and pat the cucumbers dry. Blend in the ground sesame, turmeric, lemon juice, minced chili, and the remaining ½ tsp salt.

Heat the oil in a small pan. Fry the fenugreek seeds about 30 seconds until they start to color. Pour the oily seeds over the cucumbers. Optionally garnish with the cilantro and serve.

Melon feta salad

The popular version of this Greek/Turkish summer salad is made with watermelon but you can use honeydew or cantaloupe or Tuscan/Gaia melons as easily.  So I'm calling this melon salad.
serves 4

1 sm seedless watermelon or med/lg cantaloupe/honeydew/etc
12 Kalamata olives (pitted are easier to deal with)
 4-5 oz best quality feta cheese
handful fresh mint leaves
1/2 lemon, juice only
2 tbsp best quality olive oil
Sea salt to your taste

Halve the melon and remove the rinds and any seeds. Chop the flesh into large bite-sized pieces. Put them in a large serving bowl. Add the olives. Crumble the feta into large chunks and add it. Chop the mint leaves and add to the bowl. Blend everything. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl. Pour on the salad when ready to serve. Season with salt.
 
Raita (Indian cucumber yogurt with mint) 
The Greek version of this is tzatsiki, the Turkish is caçik. The Greeks use dill instead of mint, the Turks use both or either, so you can do what you like best. The Greeks and Turks often serve this with fritters. The Indians serve raita with fiery curries and juicy kabobs. 
 makes 1 cup


1/2 c plain yogurt
1/2 c chopped seeded English hothouse cucumber
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
2 tsp chopped green onions
1/4 tsp ground cumin

Mix all ingredients in medium bowl. Season to taste with salt. Chill covered, until ready to serve.
 
Additional watery food you may already know
*Watermelon agua fresca (recipe is in How to Fix a Leek....the book)
*German cucumber salad (recipe also in How to Fix a Leek...the book)
*Berry compote
*Greek Salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, Kalamata olives, green bell pepper, feta cheese, optional red onion)
*Tomato Pie (posted a recipe in summer 2018)

Here's olive oil food
Armenian green beans
This recipe is in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, which made it very popular. You can use the same preparation for okra, zucchini or eggplant. The idea is the same in Persian and Turkish cooking: simmer a summer vegetable in a lot of olive oil with tomato for the watery effect.
  serves 6-8

2 lbs green beans (e.g. Kentucky wonder, Blue lake), ends off
1 cup olive oil
1 lg red onion, sliced in thin rings
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 tsp dried oregano leaves
2 tsps dried thyme leaves
3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tsp coarse or freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp salt
3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh dill

Cut the beans into a seemingly uniform length, between 3 and 4 inches long. Try to keep them in one direction.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy gauge casserole. Add the garlic, then onion rings and sauté over medium heat until the onion is soft but not yet browning. Add the beans. Add the rest of the ingredients except dill. Cover, lower heat to simmer and cook 20-30 minutes until the beans are tender. Remove from heat. Stir in dill and cool uncovered.
 Serve at room temperature.  (You can store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. This lasts several days.)

Ratatouille 
This is the Provencal (French) version of summer olive oil food, the veggies of summer--zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, bell peppers--bathed in olive oil and the herb of summer, basil. You can make it the traditional way or you can alter the color scheme and taste by using yellow squash instead of zucchini, smoky poblano instead of green bell pepper and purple onion instead of yellow and for a taste change cilantro in lieu of basil. You have choices. Here's the more unusual version.
Serves 6-8

1 lb firm eggplant (any kind will work except the small Thai egg-like eggplant)
1 lg Poblano or pasilla pepper, roasted* and skinned
3 lg tomatillos, roasted*
½ cup olive oil
1 tsp cracked or freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
Optional: pinch ground chipotle pepper (for smoky flavor)
1 lg red onion peeled and cut into thin disks
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground coriander
2/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
¾ lb yellow or crookneck squash, cut into ¼” thick disks
1¼ cup chopped tomatoes with juices (boxed is okay)

*Roasting here means in a toaster or regular oven at 450 degrees for 5-8 minutes (less time in the smaller toaster oven) until the skin cracks and starts to char.

Wash the eggplant.  Slice it into thin disks and if the disks are much larger in diameter than 1”, which they will be from the common bulbous eggplant, cut the disks in half.  Place on a baking sheet, sprinkle lightly with ¼ tsp salt and 2 tbsp olive oil. Cover and roast at 425 degrees for 10 minutes.

Seed the pepper and cut into thin strips. Cut extra long strips into 2” lengths.

In a medium heavy gauge casserole or large saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil over medium heat.  Add black pepper, ½ tsp oregano, optional ground chipotle and bay leaf. Sauté 30 seconds.
 Add onion disks in a layer and top with garlic, poblano and red peppers. Do not stir. Continue to sauté 3-5 minutes until onions are soft. Sprinkle 1 tbsp chopped cilantro on top. Lower heat to simmer. Add eggplant as a layer. (Pieces might be two deep if the pot is not wide.) Sprinkle on ½ tsp oregano, ground coriander and ¼ tsp salt. Add 2 tbsp chopped cilantro. Cover pot and simmer 2-3 minutes.


Imam bayaldi
This is a traditional Turkish olive oil dish called "the imam fainted." It's because of all the expensive olive oil served to him.
For 8

4 small eggplants, the large Japanese work fine (about 1½-1 3/4 lbs)
Salt
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp best quality extra virgin, first cold pressed olive oil
2 med onions, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
6 lg garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled* and chopped
¼ cup (about 1/3 bunch) parsley leaves, chopped
2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
juice of ½ lemon
½ -3/4 cup water

Cut stems off eggplants and peel strips of skin off at 1” intervals, for a striping effect.  Cut each eggplant in half lengthwise. Make a deep slit lengthwise through the fleshy side of the eggplant (the non-skin side), being careful not to cut all the way through and puncture the skin. If any of the halves do not lie perfectly flat on the skin side, slice off a tiny, thin piece so they do. Salt the exposed flesh, turn upside down and put on paper towels for 30 minutes to drain out the bitter juice. Rinse and dry.

In a very large skillet, heat the ordinary olive oil over high heat until it’s crackling or smoking. Put in the eggplants, flesh side down, and fry until golden brown, about 4-6 minutes depending on heat capacity, burner size and size of pan. Remove and drain on paper towels. Lightly salt.

In the same skillet, heat ¼ cup quality olive oil over medium high heat. Add onions and garlic. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir frequently so nothing burns. Pour the contents of the skillet into a medium-size bowl. Add tomatoes, parsley, dill, pepper, pinch of salt and 1 tbsp quality olive oil.  Blend well.

Arrange eggplant halves slit side up in the skillet. Carefully stuff each slit with as much onion mixture as you can and then cover all exposed eggplant with it. Sprinkle lemon juice over all eggplants.

Put 1 tbsp quality olive oil into the skillet. Add ½ -3/4 cup water, enough to cover the entire bottom so nothing will burn.
 Cover the skillet (use foil or a cookie sheet if you have no lid) and simmer over low heat until eggplants are soft, about 50-65 minutes, again depending on how big the burner is relative to the skillet. Check every 10-15 minutes to see if you should add water because there’s no juice in the bottom. 

Cool to room temperature. Pour any remaining skillet juices over the eggplants to serve. 

Taramasalata (also salty food)
This is one of the multitude of Mediterranean olive oil heavy pureés. The most famous is "hummus": chickpeas with olive oil and tahini. In southern Italy the puree is fava bean, which is served with chicory or any other bitter green. In Iran (Persia) it's red bell peppers pureed with walnuts into muhamarra. In the Levant it's eggplant and the result is baba ganoush. This Greek version also qualifies as salty food: tarama is cod roe.

not my photo
2 med red potatoes, boiled and peeled
4 oz fish roe
1 c best olive oil
1 1/2 lemons, juice only
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp water
1 sm onion, grated

In a mixer bowl, combine the roe and potatoes and beat until smooth. Gradually with the motor running, pour in the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar and water to make a fluffy mixture. Fold in the onions. Optionally garnish with flat leaf parsley,
 Serve chilled with olives and pita or spread on crostini.

Other olive oil food you may already know
pesto
hummus
stuffed grape leaves
 

Here's salty food
Portuguese salt cod and chickpea salad
serves 4


3 cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/2 lb dry salt cod, soaked in various changes of cold water for 16 to 24 hours in the refrigerator
1 small sweet onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 1/2 tbsp finely chopped parsley or cilantro
1 tsp coarse salt or to taste
hard-boiled eggs, chopped or cut in wedges for garnish
1/2 tsp paprika


Remove the fish from the soaking water and rinse. In a medium pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the cod. Cover for 15 to 20 minutes, then drain. Set aside until it is cool enough to handle. Hand-shred the cod, discarding any skin or bones, and place in a serving bowl together with the chickpeas, onion, and garlic.
In a small bowl, whisk the oil with the vinegar. Mix in the parsley and salt, if needed. Pour the dressing over the chickpeas and toss softly.
Garnish with the chopped eggs and a sprinkling of paprika. This dish can be served hot, cold, or at room temperature.

Sicilian pasta with anchovies and lemon

not my photo
Serves 4
1 sm onion
1 sm garlic clove
1 lg lemon
½ c extra virgin olive oil, plus more for toasting the breadcrumbs
2 oz. anchovy fillets
1/4c breadcrumbs
Salt
1 lb pasta (penne, mezze maniche, linguine, spaghetti)
1 tbsp flat leaf parsley chopped

Peel the onion and garlic. Cut the onion into eighths, and the garlic clove in half. Use a peeler to take off two strips of lemon. Put the olive oil, anchovies, onion, garlic and lemon in a frying pan and warm over a very low flame until the anchovies have disintegrated into the oil. Take off the heat and let sit.
Fry the breadcrumbs gently over a low-medium flame in a little olive oil, with a pinch of salt, until they are just starting to turn golden. Immediately remove from the heat.
Bring a pan of water to the boil, add salt, then the pasta and cook until al dente. Meanwhile, with a slotted spoon lift the onion, garlic and lemon from the oil.
In the last minute of pasta cooking time, gently warm the oil and anchovies. Once the pasta is ready, drain it, then mix with the oil, either in the frying pan, or if you have used a small pan, a bowl. Add the juice of half a lemon and toss vigorously to emulsify the oil and lemon juice into a cream. Divide between plates, and top each serving with crumbs, parsley and a little grated lemon.

Spanish cauliflower with capers
(Serves 4 as a tapa)
1 large cauliflower, broken into florets, leaves reserved
Pinch of salt
1 c milk
Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying
5 garlic cloves, sliced
5 tbsp drained capers
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp sweet smoked paprika
3½ tbsp sherry or other white vinegar

Place the cauliflower florets in a large pan, cover with water. Add salt and the milk (this will make the cauliflower whiter and prevent odors). Cook over a high heat until al dente – about 8 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water, then set aside.
Pour a good drizzle of oil into a cold frying pan, add the reserved cauliflower leaves, garlic, capers and cumin seeds, then turn the heat to high. When the garlic turns golden, add the paprika and the sherry vinegar. Reduce the liquid for 30 seconds, then add the cauliflower to the pan. Make sure the ingredients are well mixed and serve.


Other salty foods you may already know
Italian salsa verde (posted last week)
potato chips


Next post: more salty food plus spicy food.

Friday, July 19, 2019

Time to get saucy

flat leaf parsley
Summer time and the cooking is easy.  No need to heat up a lot of pans or use up a lot of energy. Mother Nature is handing out bunches of green herbs that bring nutrition, color and taste to everything they touch. Don't underestimate the punch they pack. Easy elan every which way. So grab a farm fresh bunch of cilantro, parsley, mint and of course basil. 
Mint

Here again is the annual show of sauces you can make out of them to cover whatever you want to serve: simple like grilled fish or meat, or store bought spit roasted chicken, or focaccia, leftover rice, quickly steamed zucchini, or scrambled eggs.

Somali Bizbaz

1 large garlic clove, crushed

Juice of half a large lime

1/2 to 2 whole fresh Serrano chiles (depending on your taste)

1/2 to 2/3 tight-packed cup fresh cilantro leaves

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

1/2 cup low-fat plain Greek yogurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

More lime juice if needed



Place the garlic clove in a coffee cup and squeeze the lime juice over it. Let stand 20 minutes while you gather the other ingredients. 

Place the garlic, lime juice, chile, coriander leaves, sugar, yogurt, salt and pepper into the bowl of a food processor and purée. Taste for balance. Refrigerate an hour or so to mellow, and serve cool.

Nepali Cilantro Mint Sauce

1 med hot green chili
freshly ground black pepper
Salt to your paste
1 bunch fresh mint leaves (no stems)
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves (no stems)
1 lime or lemon, all the juice you can get 
1 tbsp water

In a mortar and pestle or food processor, pulverize the chili. Add the other ingredients and process into a thick sauce. 
  You can use this on kofta or other meatballs, pasta, eggs, lentils, salmon, lots of etc.


Italian Salsa Verde
This is not the Mexican salsa verde. It's salty for a reason: in summer we need salt to help us retain water as we sweat. So think of this as glamorous medicine.
Makes enough for 4.


1 sm garlic clove
2-3 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 heaping tbsp basil leaves
1 heaping tbsp flat leaf parsley leaves
1 heaping tbsp mint leaves (not spearmint)
4-5 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Put the garlic in the food processor along with the anchovies, capers, Dijon mustard and red wine vinegar and blitz to a paste. Add the fresh herbs and “pulse” to incorporate. Add the olive oil and pulse briefly. Season with salt and pepper to your taste, remembering the anchovies and capers are already salty. 

Chimichurri, Argentine parsley sauce 
This is often referred to as Argentine steak sauce because it was concocted to top grilled beef in every form. But you can slather it on a lot of other things in summertime. And remember oil is vital in summer heat: it keeps the body lubed. So eat a lot of olive oil based sauces like this.

1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley (leaves of 1/2 bunch)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 large garlic cloves, minced (2 1/2 tbsp)
2 tbsp oregano leaves
2 tsp crushed red pepper
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine the parsley, vinegar, garlic, oregano and crushed red pepper. Process until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the sauce to a bowl and pour the olive oil over the mixture. Let stand for at least 20 minutes.
Make Ahead. The chimichurri can be refrigerated.

Moroccan Cilantro SauceThis was created to be slathered on thick white flesh fish like halibut and baked. But it's just as perfect for already roasted chicken or grilled pork. 
serves at least 6 

2 bunches fresh cilantro, washed and patted dry
1/2 tsp salt
3 garlic cloves, smashed
1 serrano chili, minced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp whole coriander seeds
2 tbsp paprika
1/2 c olive oil
3 tbsp fresh lime juice (2 limes)
Roughly chop the cilantro. Put it in a medium bowl and add ½ tsp salt, the garlic, chili, ½ tsp cumin, ½ tsp ground coriander, paprika, ½ cup olive oil and all the lime juice.  Stir to blend.



Yemeni Zhoug, a fiery ode to cilantro with a touch of cardamom

This is now popular enough to be sold at Trader Joe's! It's spelled many ways including schug.
 
 5 serrano peppers, stemmed and seeded
1 cup cilantro leaves
4 garlic cloves
1/4 c flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp sea or kosher salt
2 tsp ground cardamom
2 tsp ground coriander
juice of a large lemon
3/4-1 c olive oil

Combine everything but the oil in a food processor and whir until a coarse paste forms.  Transfer to a bowl and stir in the oil, starting with 3/4 c. Add more if needed. The sauce is not supposed to be perfectly pureed and smooth but chunkier.  





Friday, July 5, 2019

The annual world peas post

Peas are an annual subject here because they're seasonal, nutritious, colorful and tasty. While we're honoring the Founding Fathers this week, we can remember Thomas Jefferson as the father of the garden peas we are talking about. Ever notice they are sometimes called English peas or garden peas or shelling peas? That's because some British botanists were determined to turn the Indian dal pea into something Brits might eat. Jefferson continued their efforts at Monticello and we reap the rewards late every spring and early summer. 


I have many times posted a recipe for fresh pea "hummus": a yummy paté of fresh peas with scallions, mint and ricotta--last time being this Spring.
I have also posted a recipe for the traditional Spring Italian favorite: risi e pisi, rice and peas, which depending on who you ask is a risotto or a soup. If you can't backtrack to mine, you can find recipes for this many places.
In my book, Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, I included the very Brit nursery recipe for smashed peas, essentially peas mashed with butter.
And a few weeks back I posted a delectable summer salad of peas, shrimp and pasta with pesto dressing. 

Frankly I posted the following two recipes for the first time back in late winter, early Spring but they're worth repeating here while we're focusing on the glory of fresh peas. So...
Pea fritters
I put this in my fritter away post because it was so unusual to come upon a recipe using peas for these treats. They were well worth the fuss. Delightful eating warm or room temperature which means at a picnic or on a boat. 



18 ounces fresh green peas
4 1/2 ounces whole-milk ricotta cheese
3 large eggs, beaten
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon, and lemon wedges for serving (cut after zesting)
3/4 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
Optional: 1 tablespoons Israeli za'atar
1/2 tsp mild chili like Aleppo pepper or chipotle
2/3 cup flour
1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder
1 cup packed mint leaves, finely chopped
7 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
About 3 1/3 cups corn or safflower oil, for frying

Smash the peas in a food processor so they are coarsely crushed. Put them in a large a mixing bowl. Stir in the ricotta, eggs, lemon zest, salt, a good grind of pepper, optionally the za'atar, ground chili, flour and baking powder. Mixing until they are blended. Gently fold in the mint and feta.
Heat the oil in a medium skillet or frying pan over medium heat. Line a plate with paper towels.
With a large flattish spoon, make large balls you flatten into patties or make patties about 2” wide. Fry as many as fit in one layer in the pan 3 to 4 minutes, then with tongs, turn them and brown evenly. Use a slotted spatula to transfer them to the lined plate while you cook the remaining batch.
Serve warm, with lemon wedges and garnish with fresh mint leaves.

Sicilian braised fish with peas
This was another new keeper, a thick white fish braised with tomatoes and then smothered in fresh peas. That's color and flavor to the max. It's also light on calories and high on nutrients so why not repeat it. (I can't find my photo and will post when I do.)
serves 4

2 lbs thick firm flesh fish like swordfish, tuna, etc.in four fillets
2 tbsp unbleached white flour
4-5 tbsp olive oil (enough to coat the bottom of your pan) 
1 tbsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 lg garlic clove, smashed and minced
pinch of crushed red pepper flakes 
1/2 c white wine vinegar (or rice vinegar)
4 med/lg tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped (11 oz from can or box is okay)\
2 lbs fresh green peas in pods, shelled into 1 c peas 
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
Roll the fish in the flour to lightly coat. In an enameled lidded casserole, heat the olive oil (enough to coat the bottom) over med heat. Add the floured fish fillets and brown on both sides. When you turn them, toss in the parsley and garlic. Once both sides are browned, add wine vinegar and cook over low heat until it's just about evaporated. Add the tomatoes and pinch of chili flakes, bring to a low boil, reduce heat and cook 5 min. Add the peas with salt and pepper to your taste. Cover the casserole and cook on low 30 minutes. Serve with crusty bread to soak up the sauce.

 
And so to fresh ideas for fresh peas:
Ping Sha
not my photo just best I could find
This is a traditional Tibetan recipe of meat with long noodles (ping means glass noodle and sha means meat) but here in the West and in India, the Tibetans have taken to adding fresh peas in the final minutes. It is also a Chinese dish with mushrooms added instead of peas.
Serves 4

 2 oz. bean thread noodles (glass vermicelli)
1 lb. stew or grilling beef, cut into 1 inch cubes
1 lg. onion, peeled
2 tbsp. ginger/garlic paste
1 tsp. chili powder
¼ tsp. salt
¼ tsp. crushed Szechuan pepper
1 lg. tomato
½ cup freshly shelled peas
4 boiling potatoes, peeled
2 tbsp. cooking oil (corn, canola, mustard, safflower)

Heat the oil in a medium casserole.  Over medium heat sauté the ginger/garlic paste and the onion until the onion is translucent.  Add the chili powder, Szechuan pepper and the beef and blend. Stir fry two-three minutes to brown the meat on all sides.

Chop the tomato and add along with two cups of water or enough to cover everything. Once it begins to boil, reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook for 30 minutes.

Put the Asian noodles in a large bowl and totally cover them with boiling water. Let stand 20 minutes. They will expand. Cook vermicelli according to package directions. Drain. Cut with a scissors two or three times to make them easier to handle.

Slice the potatoes into thin disks or cut them into bite-sized chunks. Add to the stew and continue to cook another 5 minutes. Add the peas and salt, stirring to blend. Add another cup of water if necessary to have everything just covered. Simmer five minutes.
 Stir in the noodles. Heat through. They will soak up the sauce.  Serve.


Nepali vegetable curry
In earlier pea posts I've included the traditional Indian dish aloo muttar, potatoes with peas. The Nepalese put a bunch of vegetables together into one very tasty dish.
 
serves 4-5

6 small (new) or 3 medium potatoes (not bakers)
1/3 cauliflower
2 onions, peeled
½ lg. carrot or daikon, peeled
1 japanese or small italian eggplant
1 green chili
3 roma tomatoes
1 cup freshly shelled peas
3 cloves garlic, smashed and minced
1” fresh ginger, grated
½ tsp. turmeric
1 tsp. coriander seed
2 tsp. cumin seed
1 tsp. salt
½ tsp. cracked black pepper
3 tbsp. cooking oil or ghiu/ghee
¼ bunch fresh cilantro, leaves only
1 cup water

Coarsely chop the onion and tomatoes separately. Finely chop the chili, leaving seeds in. Cut the potatoes into bite-sized cubes. Slice the carrot or daikon and eggplant into thin disks. Cut the cauliflower into small florets.

In a medium saucepan or casserole, heat the oil or ghee. Fry the onion until it’s soft and golden. Add the cumin and coriander seed, chili, garlic, ginger and turmeric, stirring to combine. Add potatoes and stir fry until they are slightly brown.  Add all remaining ingredients except the cilantro leaves. Cover and simmer on low until all vegetables are tender—10-12 minutes.
Chop the cilantro leaves and put on top to serve.


Green pea and broccoli soup with fresh mint
 This is from the London cooking sensation Yotam Ottolenghi with some fiddling by me so it's not exactly his recipe.


Serves 4
1 tbsp coconut oil or olive oil
1 onion, peeled
2 garlic cloves, peeled
3” fresh ginger (2 tbsp), peeled and grated
10 oz green peas
10 oz fresh broccoli, stalks included, roughly chopped
2 c vegetable broth
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 can coconut milk
1 bunch fresh mint leaves
To serve
toasted pumpkin seeds
fresh mint leaves
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
extra-virgin olive oil
toasted sourdough garlic bread
Heat the oil in a large saucepan on a med/low heat. Roughly chop the onion and garlic, add them to the pan with ginger and sauté 10 minutes or until the onion begins to soften. Add peas and broccoli and sauté 5 minutes. Add the broth and season to taste. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook until vegetables are tender, stirring occasionally so the soup doesn’t burn. Remove from heat and stir in the coconut milk and most of the mint, saving some leaves for garnish. Using an immersion (hand) blender or food processor, blend into a smooth soup.
Serve topped with a sprinkle of pumpkin seeds, mint, and a drizzle of oil. Have toasted garlic bread on the side.