Monday, August 27, 2018

Farm food fiesta

It's glorious right now with just about everything you hunger for coming from our local farms.
Celebrating color is a cinch. Cooking is fast and fun. Here are a few thoughts as summer peaks:

Greek Cauliflower Dip/Spread
Something a little different to have on hand or take on a picnic.
NOTE: The dip pictured has a rosy hue because the veg broth I used had tomato in it. Using chicken broth will give an ivory result.

l lg head cauliflower, cut into florets
3 garlic cloves, peeled
1 1/2 c chicken or vegetable broth
1 1/2 oz feta or soft goat cheese
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp lemon zest
1/2 tsp dried thyme
Salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste

Place the cauliflower, garlic and broth in a deep pot. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to low/simmer and cook until the cauliflower is very very soft, about 50 minutes. Drain but reserve some broth.  Put the cauliflower and garlic in a food processor. Puree until smooth. Add the remaining ingredients and puree again to smooth. If you want a thinner result, add some reserved broth. Serve with crackers, flatbread or celery sticks.

Imam Bayaldi
This is the classic Turkish olive oil dish to beat the heat of summer. It's in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking. I've posted it before because it never goes out of style and for a vegan dish with full flavor you can't beat it. Also because you serve it at room temperature, you can make it ahead.
NOTE: The picture shows mine stored overnight in extra juice which you normally wouldn't see on a serving platter.
For 8

4 small eggplants, the large Japanese work fine (about 1½-1 3/4 lbs)

Salt

¼ c olive oil

¼ c plus 2 tbsp best quality extra virgin, first cold pressed olive oil

2 med onions, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced

6 lg garlic cloves, peeled and minced

2 ripe tomatoes, peeled* and chopped

¼ c (about 1/3 bunch) parsley leaves, chopped

2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

juice of ½ lemon

½ -3/4 cup water



Cut stems off eggplants and peel strips of skin off at 1” intervals, for a striping effect.  Cut each eggplant in half lengthwise. Make a deep slit lengthwise through the fleshy side of the eggplant (the non-skin side), being careful not to cut all the way through and puncture the skin. If any of the halves do not lie perfectly flat on the skin side, slice off a tiny, thin piece so they do. Salt the exposed flesh, turn upside down and put on paper towels for 30 minutes to drain out the bitter juice. Rinse and dry.



In a very large skillet, heat the ordinary olive oil over high heat until it’s crackling or smoking. Put in the eggplants, flesh side down, and fry until golden brown, about 4-6 minutes depending on heat capacity, burner size and size of pan. Remove and drain on paper towels. Lightly salt.



In the same skillet, heat ¼ cup quality olive oil over medium high heat. Add onions and garlic. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir frequently so nothing burns. 
Pour the contents of the skillet into a medium-size bowl. Add tomatoes, parsley, dill, pepper, pinch of salt and 1 tbsp quality olive oil.  Blend well.


Arrange eggplant halves slit side up in the skillet. Carefully stuff each slit with as much onion mixture as you can and then cover all exposed eggplant with it. Sprinkle lemon juice over all eggplants.
Put 1 tbsp quality olive oil into the skillet. Add ½ -3/4 cup water, enough to cover the entire bottom so nothing will burn.
Cover the skillet (use foil or a cookie sheet if you have no lid) and simmer over low heat until eggplants are soft, about 50-65 minutes, again depending on how big the burner is relative to the skillet. Check every 10-15 minutes to see if you should add water because there’s no juice in the bottom. Cool to room temperature. Pour any remaining skillet juices over the eggplants to serve.


Peppery Corn Salad
Another way to eat your corn off the cob when you don't want to gnash your teeth. Or you need a great potluck picnic dish. And you want a vivid, snappy dish.

serves 4

2 ears of corn, husked and cooked
1/2 roasted poblano pepper, seeded and chopped
1 sm orange or red bell or sweet pepper, seeded and chopped
1/2 c purple/red onion, minced
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 c fresh cilantro leaves, finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste.
1 lime, juice only
3-4 tbsp olive oil
OPTIONAL but worth it: 1 tbsp Yemeni zhoug/shug sauce

Cut the kernels off the cob into a medium serving bowl.
Add the peppers, onion, oregano, cilantro, salt and pepper. Stir to blend.
Stir in the lime juice, then 3 tbsp olive oil. If you want it more moist add 1 tbsp olive oil.
Stir in the Yemeni zhoug if you have some.
Serve!

And finally, for a crowd, something in the one sheet mode:
Armenian Vegetable Roast
serves 10-12

Carrots, celery, fennel, cauliflower, cabbage, purple onion, yellow squash and red peppers roasted til they char and release their sugars, topped with tomatoes, roasted, then topped with fresh dill and mint. Colorful, picturesque and very tasty nourishment. Just add a pinch of cinnamon.


1 sm cabbage, sliced into 3 wedges (keep the core in – it’s the best bit)
1 med/lg carrot,  peeled and thickly sliced
1 zucchini thickly sliced
2 lg celery sticks thickly sliced crosswise
1 med red onion peeled and quartered
1 sm cauliflower stalks and florets, chopped
1 med red pepper  cored, deseeded and roughly chopped in strips
3 tbsp olive oil
1 beefsteak or other large firm tomato thickly sliced
1 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
1 tbsp fresh mint, chopped
sea salt flakes and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Preheat the oven to 425º. Place all the vegetables except the tomato in a large roasting pan. Pour over the oil and season well with salt and pepper. Mix everything together with your hands and bake for 30 minutes until the edges of the vegetables start to char.
Arrange the tomato slices on top, season with salt and pepper and continue to bake another 15 minutes. Sprinkle over the chopped dill and mint and serve.





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Wednesday, August 22, 2018

Artist's Palette: the colors of summer --easily.

Now is the time to indulge in the gloriously vivid colors of sunshine. You don't even have to do very much. Sometimes you can just put it all out there and it's gorgeous on its own. Celebrate the artist in you.
LIttle glass bowl is for creme fraiche, to dip into.




You can shake things up by varying the colors of the most traditional Provencal olive oil dish: ratatouille:
Getting different color peppers now when they're abundant and relatively cheap:
For unexpected company, I cleaned out the fridge by stuffing these with corn from one cob, bits of chorizo and poblano pepper, purple onion, chopped pitted Kalamata olives, 1 small over ripe tomato and fregola plus lots of olive oil. They were served heavily garnished with fresh chopped cilantro leaves.

Make jam out of something unexpected...like figs just coming in season.
3-4  4oz jelly jars can be filled by cooking:

1 lb fresh figs, cleaned and chopped
1 tsp anise seed
1 lemon, juice only
1 1/2 c turbinado, raw or mix of light brown and white sugar
pinch of ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp rose water

Put it all in a deep, heavy gauge pot and bring to a boil over high heat. Stir with a wooden spoon. Continue to boil and stir until it thickens. This will happen very fast! You will know it's done when the spoon goes across the bottom and the jam parts so you see the pot bottom. Ladle into jars bathed in boiling water and seal according to jar manufacturer's instructions.  You need to know how good this will taste in mid January on a croissant.

Monday, August 13, 2018

A Berry Good Time

Now is the time to be happily black and blue as the berries are coming to market at their high tide. Blackberries need no introduction: eat them right out of the green carton or toss them into a clafouti for dinner or bake in a pie like the old nursery rhyme suggests.  There isn't much more you can do except of course shower vanilla ice cream with them.

Blueberries come in two distinct sizes: high bush and low and the difference is crucial. High bush, cultivated blueberries are significantly larger--more water content--and are for eating out of the box or turning into chutney or showering on ice cream. If you chose to put them in a pie, remember to add extra flour to soak up all the water they will release. It's easier to bake with the tiny wild blueberries that grow on very low to the ground plants, essentially in Maine and the upper peninsula of Michigan. These are flavor bombs that don't have much water to release, just sharp blueberry taste. They're traditionally used for all sorts of baking, including muffins. Fortunately they freeze very well and most commercial bakeries keep boxes of them in the freezer.  Fortunately too what you can bake with them also freezes well, if you prefer to save them that way. Nothing like a fresh blueberry muffin in a February snow.

Last post gave you the best blueberry muffin recipe so back up for that. Here are a few other ways to preserve the glory of right now.


Sour cream blueberry cake
This is an old crowd pleaser of mine perfect as "coffee cake" or brunch dessert or snack or dinner finale. And it's a champion freezer. I included the recipe in the book How to Fix a Leek....which I still have copies to sell so ask me.

This springform baked cake serves 8 easily.


Butter a 9” springform cake pan. Preheat oven to 350º.
In a food processor or mixer combine
4 oz unsalted butter             
1 c sugar
Add:
2 lg eggs
¼ tsp ground nutmeg           
½ tsp cinnamon                     
Mix together:
1 tsp baking powder  
1 tsp baking soda
2 c all-purpose unbleached flour
          
Add to the butter mix and process quickly only until blended. Do not overwork the flour.
Add:
1 tsp vanilla
1 c sour cream
Process just until blended.

Spread ½ dough evenly in the buttered pan.
In a small bowl combine:
1 c wild Maine blueberries   
½ tsp cinnamon
2 tbsp grated orange peel        
3 tsp light brown, turbinado or raw sugar
1 tbsp flour
Spread this over the dough.
Cover with remaining dough and level.
Top with this mixture:
½ cup chopped walnuts or pecans
¼ cup sugar                 
½ tsp ground nutmeg
Bake at 350º 1 hour, or until a tester comes out clean.

Blueberry Chutney
This is my way of preserving the big high bush blueberries and serving up a lip smacking condiment with winter meals. it's particularly yummy with fried, spicy or roasted chicken, roast pork or pork chops, ham, rice with lentils. It's also at its best on the Thanksgiving table beside that roast turkey. I have posted this before because it's a keeper. And it makes a great gift especially when you're invited to dinner.


2½ c blueberries                                
3 whole cloves
1 c cider vinegar                               
 2” fresh ginger, peeled and minced
1¼ c light brown sugar                       
1 sm onion, diced
2 Macintosh apples, chunked *           
¼ tsp ground cayenne pepper
¼ tsp allspice                                     
¾ tsp ground nutmeg
1/8 tsp chili powder                            
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
½ tsp salt                                           
1 tsp. minced orange peel

Combine all ingredients in a large non-aluminum saucepan. Simmer over medium heat until thickened. Pack into preserving jars and seal according to manufacturer’s instructions. (Pint or 4oz jam jars are best.)


*Secret: all apples are not interchangeable. Here you need one that dissolves, ergo a Mac. When you want one that holds it shape, say in an apple tart, use Granny Smith because it doesn't break down.


Cream Cheese Pie with Blueberry Topping
This is another way to enjoy the high bush larger blueberries. You can share the joy with 6-8 people.
   
1  9” pre-baked pie crust (made of graham crackers or ginger snaps or regular pie dough or a combination of any)

12 oz cream cheese, at room temperature
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp finely minced orange rind
½ cp granulated sugar
1/3 c whipping cream
2 lg eggs
1 ½ pts fresh blueberries, washed and dried
½ cup red currant or apple jelly
Optional: splash of rose water

Preheat oven to 350º.  
 In or with an electric mixer, beat the cream cheese until it’s soft and smooth. While beating, add vanilla, orange rind and sugar. Beat in cream, then eggs one at a time. Scrape the bowl sides with a rubber spatula and beat just enough to make the mixture smooth. Pour into the crust, level and bake 25 minutes.  Remove from oven and cool.  Refrigerate for at least one hour to use the same day, or overnight to use the next day.

Melt jelly in a small pan over medium heat until it boils. If using rose water, add now. Simmer one minute.  Using a pastry brush, cover the cream cheese filling with a thin layer of jelly and set the rest of it aside to cool. It should slightly thicken. When it does, put in the berries (or put everything in a larger bowl) and with a rubber spatula carefully coat the berries with the jelly.

Pour the coated berries and jelly onto the pie and move the berries around to make one even layer of berries and jelly that reaches to the crust all the way around, totally covering the top of the pie. (You can to this with your fingers or a dull spreader.) Refrigerate a few hours before serving. Overnight is okay too.

Blackberry or Black Raspberry Clafouti
This yummy and simple dessert from Provence is usually made with cherries. But who wants to pit them? So I adapted it to blackberries and it's sensational. If you have a farmer who can supply black raspberries (they aren't available commercially), try them instead of blackberries.  Blueberries won't work because they will turn the pudding blue and that will turn you off visually. You could do it with firm, large raspberries too. 
And btw, clafouti is a cross between a pudding and a light cake. So simple kids can do it in a snap.
serves 6-8

3 cups blackberries or black raspberries                
1 tbsp vanilla
1¼ cup milk                            
1/8 tsp salt
1/3 cup sugar                         
 2/3 cup sifted unbleached flour
3 extra large eggs                   
1/2 tsp cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350º.
Butter a 7-8 cup pie plate or baking dish.
Put all ingredients except blackberries in a blender or food processor or in a bowl with an immersion blender and make into batter. Spread blackberries all over the buttered baking dish and pour the batter evenly over them.  Bake 1 hour or until the clafouti is puffy and brown and a cake tester comes out clean.  Cool slightly before serving. Sprinkle with powdered sugar to serve.  Eat the leftovers for breakfast.

Blackberry Custard Pie
I made this up as an alternative to clafouti.
It's good for 8.

In a food processor--and mind you, I did this in a mini one, so know you don't need fancy expensive equipment-- combine
1 1/3 cups flour
1 stick unsalted butter cut into pieces.
Process just until coarsely blended.
Add
2 tbsp light brown, turbinado or raw sugar
pinch of salt,
1 extra large egg
 2 tbsp milk
 1/4 tsp nutmeg. (Ginger fans:add 1/2 inch piece of fresh ginger, grated.)
Process into lumps.

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter a 9-10" pie plate. If you have a metal one with holes in the bottom, this crust will be crisper. If you don't, you can try baking it empty for 10 minutes or not, as you see fit.
Press the dough into the pie plate all the way up the sides and a little over the top so you can crimp it between your thumb and first finger to make it look pretty. Be sure it is even all around. Now optionally you can bake it 10 minutes if you want to make it crisper in the end.

Otherwise pour in 3-4 cups of fresh, clean blackberries and distribute evenly.

In a medium size bowl, combine
4 egg yolks
1/3 c white sugar
1 tsp vanilla
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
 2 c any combination of the following that produces a thick liquid: heavy cream, yogurt, ricotta, mascarpone, creme fraiche. I used up 1 cup of heavy cream I had on hand, mixing it with 1 cup yogurt. (As it happened 1/2 of that was lemon yogurt and it added a delightful tang to the pie.) Mix all this together with a hand beater or whisk.

Pour into the pie shell.
Bake at 350º about 40 minutes or until a cake tester comes out clean.
Serve warm or at room temperature just as it is or if you want to jazz it up and can take the calories, top it with whipped cream.






Saturday, August 11, 2018

Summer sizzle


Before I share a few cool summer recipes with glamour sizzle, here's another alert and reason to stick to your farmers' market; likely half the chicken parts sold in supermarkets and other industrial outlets carry sickening salmonella.  The USDA has become incapable of monitoring; troubles are everywhere. So please buy your chicken from your local farmer. No matter what the cost, it's going to be cheaper than the cure for salmonella poisoning.

Now back to our program!
A few more ways to be corny off the cob right now along with a few recipes for quick, tasty and above all nutritious dishes perfect for the heat of August. And naturally everything features the produce at high tide at your local farmers' market.

 Blueberry Muffins
It is blueberry bonanza time and in a few locales the tart teeny wild blueberries are momentarily available. You can savor them right now or preserve them for the long winter as blueberry muffins: these are the best ever, chockful of blueberries and sassy flavor. Easy enough for kids to make. Don't use the fatter high bush blueberries as they have too much water in them.  I have a recipe for those coming up.
This makes 6 giant muffins (using popover pan) or 10 regular size
1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 c)
3/4 c raw sugar or a mix of light brown and white
2 extra large/jumbo eggs or 3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp orange flower water if you can find it; otherwise 1 tsp orange rind
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cardamom (optional in case you don't have it)
2 tsp baking powder
2 c unbleached white flour
1/2 c milk
2 c wild blueberries (frozen is okay just put a tsp of flour on them to absorb any ice)
pinch of ground cinnamon
1 tbsp light brown or raw sugar

Preheat oven to 375º.  Butter your muffin tin or tins.
In the bowl of a mixer or mixing bowl cream the butter with the sugar and do it until the butter is fluffy. Otherwise the muffins won't rise up.  Add the eggs one by one, beating as you go.  Add the vanilla, orange flavor you have, nutmeg and cardamom if you have it. Blend. Add the baking powder and flour together. Quickly mix just to start incorporating the flour into the batter. Add the milk and mix as fast as you can. (Long mixing of flour brings out the gluten that makes bread.) If you need a bit more liquid to make the mixture not so pasty add a tbsp milk.  Fold in the blueberries.

Fill the muffin tins to 7/8 full with the batter and shake the tins to get any air out. Sprinkle a tiny pinch of cinnamon on top of each muffin and then a pinch of sugar.
Bake at 375º 30-35 minutes until the tops are brown and the muffins have puffed up and a cake tester comes out clean. Cool 5 minutes before inverting to release the muffins.  Enjoy!

 Cold Zucchini Soup
This is an old recipe from Jacques Pepin with add-ons from me..
serves 6-8

5-6 med zucchini
1 lg onion, peeled and thinly sliced in rings
1 1/2 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp dried basil
3 c chicken broth
1 c heavy cream
1/2 c milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Chives, finely chopped for garnish
Parmesan cheese, grated finely for garnish

Rinse and dry the zucchini. Cut off the ends. Cut 1 zucchini in half lengthwise then thinly slice one half and stack the pieces. Cut into thin match size strips. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water, bring the water to a boil and cook 3 minutes. Drain well and set aside.

Cut the remaining half of the zucchini and the other zucchini into 1" lengths. Cut each into quarters. Put into a large saucepan. Add the onion slices, curry powder and dried basil. Stir to blend. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, reduce heat to simmer and cook 45 minutes. Put the pot contents into a blender or processor or use an immersion blender to create a purée. Add the cream, milk, salt and pepper to your taste. Add the reserved zucchini strips. Chill thoroughly. Serve garnished with the chopped chives and cheese.

Sauteed Greens with Olives
This is the way to use up all those greens you were going to trash: turnip tops, radish tops, wilted lettuce, beet greens....an alternative to my trash torte.

2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves,thinly sliced
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
10 c mixed greens (kale, chard, beet, turnip, lettuce, spinach, arugula)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c Kalamata olives, pitted and halved  (6-8)
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium flame. Add carlic and cook, stirring, until it begins to brown, maybe 2 minutes. Add pepper flakes, stirring and cook another minute. Add greens, handful at a time and toss until wilted. Season with salt and pepper to your taste and continue to cook until all greens are wilted, maybe 3 minutes. Add olives and lemon juice and toss to combine everything.  Serve warm.

Boston Corn Bread
This is a great moment for cornbread with real corn kernels added for crunch because cornbread goes so well with summer seafood, especially clams and lobster and grilled fish. It's great with grilled chicken and pork as well. Paired with grilled vegetable kabobs and those sauteed greens above, it makes a substantial meal.

Serves 6-8
 2 c unbleached flour
1 c yellow cornmeal
3/4 c white sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp baking powder
2 lg eggs
1 1/2 c milk
1 1/2 tbsp corn oil
1/4 c melted butter
2 c corn kernels (4 ears)
1/2 tsp chipotle chili powder

Preheat oven to 350º. Lightly oil a 9" cast-iron skillet and put it in the oven to heat.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, chili powder and baking powder.
In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and oil. Combine the two bowls. Add the melted butter and corn and stir with a spatula just until blended, no more.

Remove the cast-iron skillet from the oven and pour the batter into it. smack the pan on a countertop to even the batter and remove air pockets. Put in the oven and back 1 hour until corn bread is browned on top and a tester comes out clean.  Serve warm.

Scallop and Corn Salad
Another way to recycle corn off the cob.
Serves 6

1 c dry white wine
1 1/2 lbs scallops (bay or sea)
2 c cooked corn kernels (about 4 ears)
1/2 c diced celery
1 c diced red bell pepper (1 large or 2 medium)
1/4 c red onion, very finely chopped (you can use 4-6 red scallions)
3 tomatoes, cut in wedges
3 sprigs fresh tarragon or 1/2 tsp dried leaves
1/4 c dill, minced
1 tsp sea salt
1/4 tsp Tabasco
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 c mayonnaise

Bring 4 c water and 1 c wine to a boil. Add scallops and stir gently cooking over high heat 2-3 minutes until they are poached. Drain and cool to room temperature. If you are using large sea scallops, quarter them when cool.
In a large bowl, combine scallops, corn, celery, red pepper and onion/scallions.
In a small bowl, combine the tarragon, dill, salt, Tabasco , vinegar and mayonnaise. Blend well and power over the scallop/ corn mix.
Serve on a bed of fresh greens  and surround with tomato wedges. 

Monday, August 6, 2018

This is going to be corny

It's August "and the corn is as high as an elephant's eye" so we have to take full advantage of the abundance. There is NO corn like local farmers' market corn, the real old fashioned non GMO kernels on a cob just harvested.  Remember to refrigerate the corn if you aren't cooking it right away. Remember to blanch the kernels if you want to freeze them for later.

Naturally the best way to eat corn right now is naturally right on the cob, gnawing it off in neat rows. Salt it heavily of course. Your next flavor options are many. They start with melted butter...plain. Then there is melted butter with Middle Eastern za'atar or Indian curry powder or loads of freshly ground black pepper. Also garlic butter. Consider black olive paste. I favor top quality olive oil and a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper (a Middle Eastern medium hot chili). Don't underestimate basic salsa or cilantro pesto, even salsa verde and Yemeni zhoug. 

When you tire of gnashing your teeth against the cob and want to cut the kernels off for something less messy, here are a few thoughts:

Summer Squash and Corn Succotash
What we call succotash is native American corn and beans. Here's a vegetarian southern side dish version (minus bacon usually found in New England versions). It calls for pattypan squash but you can use small zucchini or yellow summer squashes. This is perfect besides fried or grilled chicken or grilled fish.

Serves 4-6

3 tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 lb baby pattypan or other summer squash cut into 1" pieces
1 sm red bell pepper, chopped into bite sized pieces
2 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob
1 c lima beans
1 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tsp dried thyme leaves
2 tbsp cilantro leaves, finely chopped
pinch of ground cayenne pepper
1 c cherry tomatoes, halved (maybe 8-10)
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 
2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped

Melt the butter in a large skillet over med/high heat. Add squash and red bell pepper and sauté  3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until quash is tender and golden. Add corn, lima beans, salt, thyme, black pepper and cayenne. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally 3-5 minutes until everything is tender. Stir in cherry tomatoes, cilantro and lemon juice. Remove from heat.  Serve garnished with chives.



Baked Tomatoes stuffed with Corn
This is very timely, taking in the two vegetables that define summer eating and run at high tide together.
 Note: this is not my photo
serves 4-6

4-6 blemish free ripe heirloom tomatoes not too soft
3 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste
4 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob
2 tbsp red onion, diced (half a small)
2 tbsp cilantro leaves, finely chopped
6 tbsp melted butter
1/3 lb mozzarella cheese, finely shredded
2 tbsp bread crumbs

Cut a slice off the top of each tomato. With a small spoon, carefully pull out the pulp and seeds without damaging the skin.  Put the insides in a medium bowl. Turn the tomatoes upside down on paper towels or a plate to drain 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375º. Brush the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the tomatoes in one layer with olive oil so nothing will stick. Stand the tomatoes up in the baking dish and season each one with salt, pepper and 1 tsp olive oil.

To the tomato pulp in the bowl add the corn, onion, cilantro, melted butter and a pinch of salt. Mix well and stuff into the tomatoes. Sprinkle a few breadcrumbs on top of each, then cover the tops with the mozzarella. Bake 30-35 minutes until cheese is melted and golden and tomatoes are baked.

New Mexican Corn Tart
This old favorite will take you into fall when you might want to serve it at brunch with baked ham. Right now with a tomato salad it's lunch. NOTE: this is flourless and thus gluten free!  Oops, can't find my photo!
serves 6

1/4 c ground sunflower seeds
6 ears corn, shucked and kernels cut off
1/2 c heavy cream
6 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1/3 c sugar (making some of it brown sugar adds flavor)
3 eggs, separated
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp dark rum
1 tsp baking powder
pinch ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter a 10" pie plate and sprinkle 2 tsp ground sunflower seeds around the bottom.
In a food processor or chopper, puree 1 1/2 c corn kernels with the cream. Add the remaining corn and set aside.
In a large bowl, cream butter with the sugar, getting the mix fluffy. One by one add egg yolks, beating as you go. Beat in baking powder, salt, run and cinnamon. Stir in the corn mix and remaining ground sunflower seeds.  In a separate large bowl beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks.  Carefully fold  them into the batter so they don't deflate too much. Pour into the pie dish. 
Bake 35 min or until brown and puffed. Cool 10 minutes before serving.  Serve with maple syrup and a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream.


Corn, Avocado and Pepperoni Salad
This recipe uses up cooked corn on the cobs nobody had room to finish. You could turn this into a lunch meal by adding 1 c cooked farro or fregola.

serves 4 not as the main entry
 Combine in a serving bowl:
4 ears cooked corn, kernels off the cob
6 pitted black olives, sliced
4 purple/red onion scallions or 1 sm red onion, diced
1 avocado, ripe, cut into bite sized chunks
1 sm red bell pepper, chopped into bite sized pieces
10 thin slices pepperoni, cut into quarters
1/4 c cilantro leaves, chopped

For the dressing: combine in a small pitcher or bowl
2 limes, juice only
1/8 tsp chili powder
1/4 c olive or corn oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Pour dressing over salad 10 minutes before serving so flavors marinate.

Corn Chili Souffle
This is an old James Beard recipe, often served beside pork, but it stands on its own with a huge tomato and green herb salad. I've added options. Alert to vegetarians: it calls for bacon.
serves 6

1 c cornmeal
4 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob and cooked
1 c milk
6 eggs, separated
2 tsp baking powder
Salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste  (the recipe called for 2 tsp salt)
1 c pimento stuffed green olives, chopped
1 sm green chili pepper, seeded and minced (I prefer Serrano) OR
1 med/lg poblano pepper, finally chopped (a milder smokier flavor)
1/4 tsp ground chipotle chili powder
1 1 /2 c crisp bacon bits (or 1 c crisply fried chorizo bits)
3/4 c grated parmesan cheese (you could also up the flavor with 1/2 c parmesan and 1/4 c grated cheddar)

 Preheat oven to 375º. Liberally butter a 2 qt baking dish or souffle pan.
Put the cornmeal and the corn in a large pot with the milk. Heat over medium, and stir continually with a whisk until it begins to thicken. Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolks, salt and pepper, baking powder, olives, chopped chili and chipotle powder.  Add bacon and cheese and stir well.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Very slowly with a rubber spatula fold the egg whites into the corn mixture, trying not to deflate them. Pour into the buttered baking dish and bake 35 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. 






Friday, August 3, 2018

Simple recipes for summer surplus

It's mid summer and produce is at high tide in farmers' markets. So here are a few ways to enjoy some of it right now:

Tomatoes:
Tuna Stuffed Tomatoes, Italian Style
This is something of an olive oil dish from Italy. 
 
Makes 4

4 tbsp olive oil
4 ripe, flawless medium/large heirloom tomatoes (don't buy paste tomatoes)
1 small onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 c bread crumbs
1 tsp dried oregano
1 7 oz can oil packed tuna
2/3 c fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers
6-8 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped 
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c Parmesan or Asiago cheese, grated
Sea salt to your taste

Preheat oven to 375º. Get out a baking dish with room for all the tomatoes and very lightly coat the bottom with 1 tbsp olive oil.
Carefully slice a very thin slice of the base of any tomato that doesn't stand up straight. Do not puncture the interior. Slice the top off each tomato and spoon out as much of the juicy insides as you can without puncturing the sides; you need a solid shell for the filling. Sprinkle the inside of each tomato with a pinch of salt, turn each upside down on a paper towel to drain.

While they drain, coat the bottom of a small frying pan with 2-3 tbsp olive oil depending on the size of the pan. Warm over med heat. Sauté the garlic, onions and black pepper over med/low heat until the onions are soft, maybe 4 minutes. Don't burn the garlic. Stir in the breadcrumbs, oregano and tuna with its oil. Cook 1 minute to warm, the remove from heat. Stir in capers, 1/2 c parsley and the olives. Blend well.

Line the tomatoes in a baking dish and stuff each to overflowing, packing down as you go. Sprinkle each top with 1 tbsp of grated cheese. Cover the baking dish with foil and bake 20 min. at 375º. Cool to room temp and sprinkle the remaining parsley on top of each one to serve.

NOTE; You can also fill 6 tomatoes by adding 1 c cooked orzo to the mix just before stuffing.

Peaches
Peach Chutney
I made the pictured batch with a few wild blueberries found in the freezer from last year this time but you can make it plain or with a few raspberries.
This makes 7 4oz jars

6 med/lg good quality peaches, ripe
1 c pecan halves, lightly toasted
2 tbsp grated fresh ginger peeled
1/2 c raisins
Optional: 1/2 c wild blueberries or fresh raspberries
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
3/4 c brown or turbinado sugar
1/2 c raspberry or plum vinegar
1/4 c apple cider vinegar

Dip the peaches into boiling water 60 seconds, then drain and run under cold water so the skins slip off.
Put the canning jars into a large pot of boiling water to sterilize them.
Chop the peaches into small pieces. Combine everything but the pecans in a deep heavy pot and cook over med/high heat to a boil. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to thicken. You will know because it will part for the spoon and you will see the bottom of the pot. Toss in the pecans and continue cooking until the mixture is thick enough to stick to the spoon.
Remove the jars from the boiling water and fill with the chutney, pressing down to prevent air pockets. Close tightly and return to the water bath 12-15 minutes.  Remove. When you hear the "pop" you will know jars are sealed. Cool, label and store. Great gift!

Corn
Corn and Crab Chowder
serves 6 as a cup

4 ears corn, cleaned of all husk and silk
1 lg potato
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1 lg onion, finely chopped
5 small heart of celery stalks, finely chopped
1 sm carrot, diced into cubes
1/4 c fresh red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 c half and half
1 c bottled clam juice
1 c water or fish broth
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
Salt to your taste
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste
3/4 lb crabmeat, clean of shells and cartilage
1/4 c fresh cilantro, finely chopped

Fill a pot with just enough water to cover the corn cobs. Bring the water to a boil, put the corn in and when the water returns to boiling, cover the pot and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes to blanch the corn. Drain and cool.  Cut off the kernels; hopefully you have 2 cups.

Peel the potato and cut it into small cubes. Heat butter in a medium pot over low heat until it's foamy. Add onions, carrot, red bell pepper, celery and potatoes. Cook over medium heat until onions are soft. In a small pot over low heat, bring the half-and-half to a simmer. Pour it, the clam broth, water, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper into the pot with the vegetables. Add the corn and half the crab. Simmer 6-8 min until the potatoes are tender and not mushy. Add the remaining crab. Stir gently to blend. Heat thoroughy.
Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with freshly chopped cilantro to serve. 

Eggplant
Italian Stuffed Eggplant
A change from the lamb stuffed Persian eggplant and the chickpea stuffed Arabic dish, a treat for vegetarians.
 
 serves 4
4 sm eggplants
6 tbsp olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
8 anchovy fillets
6 parsley sprigs
1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp coarsely chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1 tsp dried oregano leaves
1 1/2 c breadcrumbs
1/2 sm chili pepper, seeded and minced or 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
12 thin slices fresh tomato
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Preheat oven to 350º. Cut eggplants carefully in half lengthwise and scoop out as much flesh as you can without puncturing the skin. Chop the flesh. Chop the garlic, anchovies and parsley together

 In a skillet, heat 2 tbsp olive oil over med heat and add the flesh. Sauté stirring 1 minute. Add the garlic parsley mix. Add capers, olives, oregano, breadcrumbs and chili. Stir in 3 tbsp olive oil. Fill the eggplants with this mixture. Cover each with an overlapping layer of tomato slices. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. Sprinkle the remaining olive oil over each eggplant. Place each on a baking sheet and bake at 350º 30 min until bubbling hot. 


All the leftover odds and ends vegetables
Vegetable Paella
Quick and comforting. Uses up what's lingering in the fridge so there's no ironclad recipe here. Just try to assemble 1 c of veggies for every person and be sure to include onion and carrots. Peas, green and red bell peppers are perfect. So are green beans cut into small pieces, fava beans, salad (Hakurei) turnips, corn, summer squashes, celery, cauliflower cut into small bites, 1 tomato grated.  If you are a carnivore, you can use a few small bits of chorizo to flavor this.

Liberally coat the bottom of a sm/med paella pan or sautoir with olive
oil. Warm it over med heat.  Toss in the chorizo if using, onions, peppers, carrots, celery, turnips and sauté 3 min to soften. Add the remaining vegetables and season with salt to your taste. Season with 1/4 tsp smoked paprika per person and continue to cook another 3 minutes.  Add 1/2 c paella or Calasparrra rice per person and 1 c veg broth for every 1/2 c rice. Add a pinch of saffron to glamorize the whole thing and cook over med/low heat until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Test to see if the rice is cooked: if not add more liquid and cook til it's gone. Serve garnished with chopped cilantro.