Sunday, June 2, 2019

Apricots

They're here, the cold tolerant apricots, first stone fruits of summer. In their native habitat, Central Asia, there are at least 15 different kinds and they are used for everything from just plain snacking to drying to soup. Here we're stuck with tasteless mush from California but do not despair. They can cook up into lovely and tasty dishes. Right now they are not so expensive by the pound, and they freeze well, so here are a few ways the rest of the world enjoys apricots.
    And btw, in Greek mythology apricots are the "golden apples" of Hesperides, the fruit Hercules was ordered to pick in the eleventh of his twelve labors. And for good reason: one apricot has all the Vitamin A the body needs for a day. This cousin of the peach also supplies potassium and Vitamin C.


Apricot Cookie Tart
This is kid stuff. I learned it from a professional who whipped it up in no time for company: cookie dough pressed into a pie tin and topped with fresh apricots. Fruit and cookies at once! This freezes perfectly if you want to stash it for midwinter.
serves 6-8
8 med apricots

Juice of 1 lime
1 extra large egg
1 tbsp milk
1 stick (8 tbsp) unsalted butter
1¼ c unbleached flour
¼ c sugar
3 tbsp light brown sugar
½ tsp ground cardamom
¼ tsp ground cinnamon
¼ c apricot jam

Heat oven to 325º. Butter a 8-9” pie dish. If you have one with a removal bottom, it makes a prettier presentation (see photo) but no worries if you don’t.

Split the apricots in equal halves and remove the pits. Squirt them with lime juice and set aside.

In a food processor, make cookie dough by combining the egg, milk, butter, flour, all the white sugar but only 2 tbsp light brown and cardamom. Process just until it forms thick lumps, no more.  Press the lumps of dough into a smooth piecrust about the thickness of a cookie in the buttered dish/pan. Be sure its level around the bottom.

Arrange the apricot halves on the crust, cut side down. If there are gaps, cut one apricot into wedges to fill them. Sprinkle the apricots with 1 tbsp light brown sugar and the cinnamon. Bake at 325º 35-40 minutes until the cookie crust is golden brown and crisp. Remove from the oven. Melt the apricot jam in a small pot with 2 tsp water and immediately brush it all over the apricots to glaze them. Don’t serve until the glaze is shiny and set.  Serve with vanilla or ginger ice cream!

Apricot Clafoutis
The traditional Provencal clafoutis--a cross between cake and pudding--is traditionally made with cherries. I usually make it late summer with blackberries but I've come upon this version with apricots which is perfect for right now.  Clafoutis are so easy to make, kids can do it. And everybody loves them. if you ever have leftovers, use them for breakfast. Why not: milk, eggs and fruit!

1-2 tbsp unsalted butter
3 eggs, separated
1/2 c granulated sugar
1 1/4 c  whole milk
1/2 tsp almond extract
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp baking powder
41/2 tbsp all purpose flour
pinch salt
6 fresh apricots, pitted and cut into quarters
1/4 c powdered sugar, sieved
pinch of ground nutmeg

Heat oven to 350º. Butter a 9-10" pie plate. 
Beat the egg yolks and granulated sugar until the mix is pale. Whisk in the milk and both extracts. (You can also use an immersion blender.) Mix the flour and baking powder and fold the blend into the batter. Beat the egg whites into stiff peaks, then gently fold them into the batter without losing the air.

Arrange the apricots around the buttered pie plate. Sprinkle the mint on them. Pour the batter evenly over the top.  Bake at 350º 25-30 minutes until a cake tester comes out clean and the batter is firm. Remove from oven and cool 5 minutes. Sprinkle the top with the sieved powdered sugar mixed with the nutmeg.

Chicken with Apricots and Honey
Moroccan cooks are masters of mixing fruits with meats. Like the Persians, they often use dried apricots when they do, but here's a recipe for fresh ones. It creates a colorful table. Serve with couscous.
  serves 4
4  6 oz chicken breasts. skinless
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground ginger
freshly ground black pepper
pinch ground cayenne pepper
1 med onion, thinly sliced in rings
1 c chicken broth
8 sprigs fresh cilantro, 6 tied into a bunch, 2 for garnish
Salt and pepper to your taste
8 med fresh apricots
3 tbsp honey
3 tbsp slivered almonds, roasted 
Couscous
Melt butter in a large covered skillet/frying pan. Over simmer, add spices and stir 1 minute to release their fragrance. Increase heat to medium and add chicken breasts. Turn them to coat in the spiced butter and cook 1 minute on each side. Don't let the spices burn. Lower heat if you have to. Add onions and cook 5 minutes, stirring onions. Turn the chicken over once. Add the chicken stock and the bunch of fresh cilantro. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. Cover pan and reduce heat to low/simmer. Cook 5 more minutes, turning the chicken over once again in the middle.

Wash and halve the apricots. Remove the pits. Arrange them cut side down among the chicken breasts. Drizzle them with the honey. Cover the pan again and simmer on low heat about 8 minutes. Turn the apricots over after 5 minutes. 

Keep the apricots on very low simmer and remove the chicken to a plate. Cover it and let the chicken steam 2-3 minutes. Then thickly slice each one on a diagonal.

While chicken is steaming make couscous according to package. Distribute it evenly on 4 serving plates. Top with slices of chicken.
Remove the cilantro sprigs from the sauce with the apricots in the pan. Spoon the apricots over the chicken and then dress with the sauce left in the pan. Sprinkle with the slivered almonds and garnish with fresh chopped cilantro leaves.  Serve immediately.

Persian Rice Pudding with Apricots
This magnificent, rich dessert--not the usual rice pudding-- can be made a day ahead and nobody will know. A little goes a long way. 
serves 4-6

1/2 c granulated sugar
1 tbsp powdered sugar, sieved to remove lumps
1 qt plus 2 tbsp whole milk
2 cinnamon sticks
zest of 1 orange
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/2 c risotto (starchy short grain) rice
4 tbsp heavy cream
1 tbsp orange flower water 
good pinch saffron threads soaked in 3 tbsp hot water
3 tbsp toasted pistachios, chopped
8 fresh apricots, halved and pitted
2 tbsp honey
1 tsp ground cardamom
zest 1/2 lemon
1/4 c apricot jam

(You can do this the day of serving or day before) Put the apricot halves in a pot with the honey, cardamom,1 cinnamon stick and lemon zest. Stir in the apricot jam and 2 tbsp water. Simmer 5-8 minutes to get the apricots coated in a syrupy sauce, thicker is better. Set aside to cool.

In a large heavy gauge saucepan, combine the sugars, milk, 1 cinnamon stick, orange zest, vanilla and rice. Over med heat bring to a simmer (small bubbles around the edge). Immediately reduce heat to low, very low, and simmer gently 45 minutes, stirring occasionally until the rice is very soft. Try to keep it from sticking to the bottom of the pan near the end by stirring with a metal spoon.  

Remove from heat and stir in the heavy ceam, orange flower water and saffron.  Let this cool.  It should be somewhat thicker than when you started. Chill this overnight.

To serve: remove the cinnamon stick. Spoon the pudding into bowls. Top with one or two apricot halves with a little of the syrup. Sprinkle on the pistachios and serve.

PS Here is an alternative I use: Greek rice pudding and when I serve it I cover the top with thick yogurt or whipped cream and lay skinned poached apricots on top to make it look like sunny side up eggs.

Moroccan Lamb Tagine with Apricots
This unusual recipe is party food par excellence for whatever or whoever you are celebrating right now.

serves 6
3 1/2 lbs lamb shoulder meat, cut into 1 1/2" chunks
3 tbsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp vegetable oil
pinch of saffron
salt to your taste
1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper 
1 tsp ground ginger
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 tsp ground cumin
3 tbsp grated onion 
1 c onions, thinly sliced into rings
1/4 c honey 
2 lbs fresh apricots, halved and pitted 
1 tbsp toasted sesame seeds
fresh cilantro leaves, chopped, for garnish

Trim the meat of all excess fat.
Melt  butter in a large covered heavy gauge casserole. Stir in the oil, saffron, salt, pepper, ginger, 1/4 tsp cinnamon, cumin and grated onion.  With the pot on simmer, put the meat in the pan and coat the chunks carefully with the spiced butter mix.  Don't burn the spices. Add enough water to barely cover the meat. Bring it to a boil, cover the pot, reduce heat back to low and simmer 1 hour.

Add the sliced onion, cover and simmer another 30 minutes.
Add 1/4 tsp cinnamon, honey and apricot halves. Simmer uncovered to the sauce thickens, 10 -15 minutes.

To serve: arrange the lamb on a high sided serving dish, pour the apricots and sauce over it. Sprinkle with the sesame seeds and a bit of chopped cilantro and serve at once with couscous, bulgur or fregola.





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