Monday, March 21, 2016

It's Easter So I'm Egging You On

More than lamb, the egg is the symbolic food of Easter, celebration of Spring, i.e. new birth. We hunt eggs, dye eggs, fill plastic ones and eat them in every conceivable form. Slavic cultures probably go wildest with their babkas and egg shaped cakes filled with whole eggs to double down on the message. Jewish Passover requires dipping hard boiled eggs into salted water to symbolize the bitterness of life. Lots of meaning, lots of eggs. So here are eight ways the world loves eggs, all excellent to serve for breakfast, brunch, supper or midnight snack on Easter. (with apologies for the way this blog looks: Blogger is a dastardly platform that refused to work right. It just keeps making changes of its own, for the worst.)

My Smoked Salmon Stuffed Eggs
This is for 4 but you can double it
4 hard boiled eggs
2 scallions, minced
1 tbsp chopped fresh chives
1 heaping tsp capers, carefully drained
 1 1/2 slices smoked salmon, cut into tiny bits
1/3 tsp prepared white horseradish
1 heaping tbsp chopped fresh dill
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1-2 tbsp creme fraiche, sour cream or whipped cream cheese

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise and carefully remove the yolks. Put these in a medium size bowl. Add everything else but the final creme fraiche/sour cream/whipped cream cheese, and blend well with a fork to mash the yolks. Add enough creme fraiche/sour cream/whipped cream cheese to totally bind everything into a thick paste. Carefully fill the egg white holes with this paste and spread some over the edges so the top of the egg is completely covered by the yellow mixture. To serve, sprinkle on more fresh chopped fill or chive flowers, salmon roe caviar or drained capers.
 

Migas: Spanish scrambled eggs with yesterday's bread

Serves 4
1 medium loaf of stale white bread (around 2-3 days old)
Extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the skin on
1/2 lb morcilla, chorizo or pancetta, cubed
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 tsp smoked paprika
A small bunch of parsley, chopped
1/4 c sultanas, soaked (either overnight or 2-3 hours before) in sherry
2 tbsp hazelnuts, toasted and crushed
1 tbsp pine nuts, toasted
8 large eggs
Lardo (optional), thinly sliced, to serve
Salt and black pepper

Remove the bread crusts. Cut it into 2cm cubes. Sprinkle with water to make damp. Keep aside in a Tupperware box or in a bowl with a damp tea towel over it until needed.Put a sauté pan on a medium and cover the bottom with extra virgin olive oil. When warm add the garlic. When the garlic is halfway to caramelized, add the morcilla, chorizo or pancetta and cook 2 minutes until the fat is released. Lower heat and add the bread.Toss steadily 4-5 minutes. BUT after 2 minutes, add the shallots and smoked paprika. Add the chopped parsley, sultanas, hazelnuts and pine nuts and stir well. Cook just until the bread is crispy on the outside but still moist and chewy inside. Do not make croutons. Immediately divide the bread mix among four plates.

In the same pan, fry the eggs, making sure they’re crispy on the outside (with a skirt) and runny in the middle. Place two each on top of the plated bread mixture. If you have lardo, place a slice or two on top of the eggs so that it melts. Season and serve.


Persian Parsley Omelets
This recipe is from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking.Makes 15 2-3” “pancake” omelets 
1 lg bunch fresh flat leaf parsley, cleaned 
2 lg garlic cloves, peeled 
¼ tsp fresh cracked or ground black pepper 
6-7 scallions, cleaned 
6 eggs 
¼ tsp salt 
3 tbsp olive oil

Put parsley, garlic, pepper and scallions in the bowl of a food processor and chop. Or chop each individually, mincing the garlic, and combine. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl and blend in salt. Whisk in the parsley mixture.

Heat a large flat skillet over medium heat and coat with 1 tbsp olive oil. When oil is hot, put in 2 tbsp of egg mixture as though making a pancake. Scrap the ooze to try to keep a reasonably round shape 2-3 inches in diameter. Do this again 2 or 3 times until the skillet is full but there is space between the omelets. Cook until the edges start to brown and flip. Cook another minute and remove from heat. Continue making omelets until the egg mixture runs out.
  Serve these warm or at room temperature. They are delicious wrapped in lavash with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and thinly sliced cucumber.



Spanish Tortilla: a pancake of eggs, potatoes and onion 
from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking
Serves 4-5

2 tbsp olive oil (extra if your pan is large) 
4 round potatoes about 2” in diameter 
1 med onion, peeled and diced 
1 tsp salt 
5 eggs

Cut potatoes in half, then cut the halves in half again, and cut each into uniformly thin slices. Heat a frying or sauté pan on medium high. When it’s hot, coat the bottom with olive oil and heat until it is almost smoky. Cut heat to low and add potatoes, stir frying to coat them with the oil. Continue to sauté potatoes 3-5 minutes until they are soft, then cover the pot and continue cooking until they just start to brown, about 5 minutes. (Fresh or new potatoes will cook faster.) Add onion and salt. Cover the pot and continue to cook on low until onions are soft, 10-12 minutes.

Meanwhile beat eggs in a medium or large bowl. Have ready a flat plate as large as the pan you are cooking in, at least as large as the tortilla will be. When the onions and potatoes are soft and golden, pour contents of the pan into the scrambled eggs and blend.

Return the emptied pan to the stove and raise heat to high. If there are not still have droplets of oil all over the bottom, add a tsp of olive oil and heat it. When pan and oil are very hot, cut heat to low and pour in the egg mixture. Spread and level it. Cover the pan and cook on low 3-5 minutes, or until the bottom half of the tortilla is firm.

Put a large plate over the top of the tortilla, remove the pan from the heat and flip it so the tortilla lands on the plate. The cooked side will be up. Slide the tortilla back into the pan with the cooked side up. Cover the pan, return to low heat and continue cooking another 3-4 minutes until the entire tortilla is firm. Immediately invert the tortilla onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve warm. Served with grilled artichokes and zucchini in Romesco sauce for a memorable Spanish meal.


Chinese Tea Eggs
This recipe is from How to Fix A Leek and Other Food From Your Farmers' Market

6 extra large or jumbo eggs 

3 tbsp soy sauce
2 star anise
2 tbsp leaves or 2 bags of strong black tea like Russian Caravan or Labsang Souchong or best quality Darjeeling
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp sugar

In a large saucepan, cover the eggs by 2” with water, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and boil 3 minutes. Remove eggs from pan but do not discard water. When eggs are cool enough to handle, with the back of a teaspoon, gently tap the shells to delicately crack them all over while still keeping them intact. Return eggs to the water, and add the other ingredients. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer. Cover and simmer 40 minutes, turn off heat and let eggs steep for 4 hours. Remove shells and serve whole to show off the marbling.



Menemen: Turkish scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers

serves 4
8 eggs
6 medium/large tomatoes, peeled and chopped into small chunks--or 2 c boxed chopped
2 Anaheim/Fresno/ Hungarian hot wax or other medium hot peppers cut into small chunks

2 green bell peppers, diced
2 onions, sliced into thin disks that are halved then halved again

1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp ground Aleppo or ancho pepper
1/2c olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste


Beat the eggs in a bowl and add a little salt and pepper
Warm the olive oil in a large pan, then lightly fry the onions and peppers without browning for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and spices. Cook until all veggies are soft--around 7-8 minutes, and the juice reduced by about half.
Pour in the eggs and stir continually until they begin to firm. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. When eggs are firm, immediately remove from heat before they dry out. Serve immediately with fresh flat bread.


Shakshuka: poached eggs in spicy tomato sauce from Tunisia originally
I've published this on the blog before but this dish is always in season.

Serves 4

3 tbsp fruity olive oil
3 lg garlic cloves, minced
1 lg red onion, diced
1 med green bell pepper, seeded and chunked
1 sm yellow bell pepper, seeded and chunked
1-2 hot chili peppers like Serrano or real jalapeno, seeded and minced
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp caraway seeds, smashed or ground
1-2 tsp smoked paprika
¼ tsp dried mint leaves
¼ tsp turmeric
¼ tsp ground cayenne or arbol chili powder
pinch ground cinnamon
1 tsp wine/balsamic vinegar

½ tsp honey
1 tsp tomato paste
2-3 cups chopped tomatoes in their juice
salt
black pepper to taste
8 eggs
1 bunch fresh cilantro, stemmed, washed and chopped for garnish
optional add ons: feta cheese, pitted black kalamata olives, chopped spinach


        In a large heavy-gauge sauté pan that has a lid, heat olive oil. Sauté onions, bell and chili peppers and garlic over medium heat til soft, about 5 minutes.  Add the spices—cumin through cinnamon—and heat until fragrant, maybe 60-90 seconds.

       Stir in vinegar, tomato paste, honey and tomatoes.  Season with salt and pepper.
Cook until the sauce thickens, maybe 10-12 minutes depending on how juicy the tomatoes were.  Taste for flavor and add seasonings to your taste.

        Get the sauce very hot and bubbly over medium heat and have the pan lid handy.  Carefully create 8 small pockets in the sauce and crack an egg into each one. Try to nudge a little sauce into the eggwhites.  Cover and continue cooking to poach the eggs to your liking.
        Uncover the pan. Add the optionals you desire. Let them heat up 1 minute. Remove pan from heat. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve right out of the pan.

Shakshuka variation: poached eggs with chickpeas and Pernod/Ouzo/Ara  
serves 6
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and roughly chopped
2 tbsp harissa
1 15 oz can chickpeas, drained
1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1/3-1/2 c Pernod, Ouzo or Arak
1 15/16 oz box chopped tomatoes
2 1/2 c vegetable broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 eggs
1/4 lb soft goat’s cheese, broken into roughly 2cm pieces
2 tsp fresh dill, roughly chopped

 
On a medium-high flame, heat the oil in a large sauté pan for which you have a lid. Fry onion, carrot and fennel about 15 minutes, stirring a few times, until soft and golden brown. Add the harissa, chickpeas and spices, stir through for a minute, then add the Pernod. Let it bubble for 30 seconds, then stir in the tomatoes, stock and a half-teaspoon of salt. Return to a boil, turn the heat to medium and continue to cook for 25-30 minutes, stirring a few times and crushing some of the chickpeas, until the sauce is thick and rich.

        Take off the heat, make six indentations in the mix, then crack an egg into each gap. Sprinkle the eggs with a generous pinch of salt, dot the goat’s cheese around and about, then cover and return to the heat for five to six minutes, until the egg whites are set and the yolks still runny. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with dill and serve.
 
Scotch Eggs: hardboiled and rolled in sausage
for 4 and baked instead of deep fried

4 large hard boiled eggs, peeled
1 lb ground pork sausage
1 sm onion, minced
salt to your taste
1 egg beaten
3 tbsp white flour
3/4 c panko breadcrumbs or crushed Cornflakes

Heat oven to 400º.  In a large bowl, combine pork, onion and salt. Shape mixture into 4 flat patties. Wrap each around an egg trying to cover it entirely. Then roll the covered egg in flour. Roll it next in the beaten egg and finally in the bread or Cornflake crumbs, covering completely.  Put on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 400º 35 minutes or until sausage is thoroughly cooked where it meets the egg.



And if none of this is good enough, you can always make a fritatta.
 Happy Easter, happy eats.


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