Tuesday, February 9, 2016

Food for Love: Valentine's Day Eating


Valentine's Day is on the way. This year it falls on a Sunday, so no excuse for no time to bring some love to the table. When you do, you'll be part of something huge. People have been feeding each other aphrodisiacs since nobody knows when; it goes back too far. 

When people in love say, “there just was this chemistry”, they mean mysterious emotional attraction to a person, but they could as easily mean the food in their kitchen. In just about every culture, alchemists and chemists have experimented with food to devise seductive potions and hormone formulas that provoke carnal desire, stimulate attraction, promote fertility, and perhaps most importantly cure impotence. Thanks either to those chemical science efforts or poetic association with passion, particular foods are now considered aphrodisiacs. Others got on the list because personal memories of eating that food evoked feelings warm enough to put someone in the mood. 

The most traditional and cross cultural dinner table aphrodisiacs are chocolate, wine, asparagus, artichokes, oysters, the mushroom known as truffle, vanilla and chili pepper.  

Apples are also on that list. Remember what tempted Adam and Eve? Snow White? It turns out apples--although arguably the ancients meant pomegranates (seed sacs like testicles), are historic symbols of temptation. In Greece, they actually were the symbol of love. In a popular myth, the goddess Atalanta, renown for athletic prowess, vowed to marry whoever beat her in a foot race, and when the god Hippomenes beseeched the Goddess of Love for help in winning, sympathetic Aphrodite gave him three golden apples.
She told him to throw them on the track as Atalanta approached. Indeed the sight of these shimmering orbs so distracted Atalanta, she lost the race, meaning love won. In the Mediterranean mind, apples became so tightly associated with love that upon seeing their first tomato (likely yellow heirloom) from the New World, Italians immediately called it, pomodoro, golden apple. 
Some people consider saffron an aphrodisiac because of its red color, rarity and expense, and haunting, seductive flavor. So if you have time to fuss and want something sensational to go with, say, rack of lamb or roast beef, try this:

Red Kuri Squash Stuffed with a Saffron, Apricot and Cherry Pilaf
1 lg (2 1/2 lb) red kuri squash--or sugar pumpkin
1 cup (heaping) long grain Basmati or Jasmine rice (rinsed)
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
a big pinch of saffron threads
1 1/2 tsp ground coriander
Peel of 1/3 orange (no pith please), sliced into very thin strips
1/4 cup pistachio nutmeats
1/4 cup roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1/4 cup dried cherries soaked in boiling water 5 minutes and drained
8-10 dried apricots, chopped into bite-size pieces
1 tsp rosewater
1/2 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper to your taste
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
1 bunch mint coarsely chopped or 1/2 cup dried mint leaves
1 bunch dill, coarsely chopped
1 lemon cut in wedges for garnish
1 cup thick fresh yogurt for serving

Preheat over to 400º. Soak the saffron threads in 1 tsp hot water.

Wash the squash and microwave it just long enough to soften it so you can put a knife in.
Cut off the stalk end to use as a lid. Scoop out all seeds and strings. Put the lid back on the squash, put the squash on a baking sheet and put it in the oven for 1 hour.
     Now, put the rice in a pot with just enough water to cover it. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer, partially cover the pot and cook 10-12 minutes until all the water is absorbed. (The rice will not be totally cooked, no worries.)
     Meanwhile in a wide lidded skillet or casserole, heat oil and butter until butter melts. Stir in coriander, orange peel, pistachios, pumpkin seeds, drained cherries and apricots. Sauté one minute. Add the rice, saffron (with water) and rose water. Season with salt and pepper.
    Turn off the heat. Cover the pot with a clean, dry dish towel and press the pan lid down over it to a tight fit. Let the pilaf steam for 10 minutes. Toss in the parsley, dill and mint.
     When squash is ready, lift off the lid and fill it with the pilaf, gently stuffing it in. Put the lid back on and put the stuffed squash back in the oven for 20 minutes.
     Remove the lid to serve. Slice the lemon into wedges. There are two ways to present this: one is to simply put the wedges all around the squash on a serving plate, put 1/4 of the yogurt on top of the pilaf and pass the rest in a separate bowl, and let everybody dig in. Or you can slice a 1/2" thick round off the top of the squash, lay this ring on a plate, fill it with the pilaf, top this with yogurt and place a lemon wedge to one side.
 
Why is asparagus on that list? According to the wildly popular lookalike theory of earlier times, the asparagus spear that triumphantly shoves its way up through thawing Earth should be a boost for the male libido. Bridegrooms in 19th C France were served a pile of spears on their wedding night. But it turns out there’s more to asparagus than its suggestive phallic shape. Dense with potassium, folic acid and vitamin B6 among other critical nutrients and fiber, asparagus increases production of histamine, a chemical that causes capillary dilation and muscle contraction. The human body requires both of these to happen so it can achieve orgasm.

Here's a Spanish treat for a lazy Sunday brunch or breakfast:
Asparagus Revuelto (not quite an omelet)

3 tbsp olive oil

2 peeled garlic cloves, plus 1/2 teaspoon minced garlic

2 cups bread cubes, made with day-old bread, cut in 1/2-inch cubes
Salt and pepper
2 ounces Spanish chorizo, diced (use pepperoni if you can't find it)
1 bunch thin asparagus, about 1 1/2 pounds, cut in 1- 2" lengths
1 bunch scallions, chopped
8 large eggs, beaten
1/2 tsp pimentón
2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley


Put 3 tbsp olive oil in a cast-iron skillet over medium-high heat. Add peeled garlic cloves and let them sizzle until lightly browned, then remove. Add bread cubes, season with salt and pepper, lower heat to medium and gently fry until lightly browned and crisp, about 2 minutes. Remove bread and set aside to cool.
     Add chorizo and fry lightly. Add asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and stir-fry until cooked through but firm, 3 to 4 minutes. Add green onions and minced garlic and cook 1 minute more. Season eggs with salt, pepper and pimentón. Pour into pan and cook, stirring with a wooden spoon until soft and creamy, 2-3 minutes. Add parsley, top with fried bread cubes and serve immediately.

You can serve that with heart shaped scones bearing red flecks of dried cherries:
Scones with dried cherriesfor best effect, you need a heart shaped cookie cutter
makes about 14
1/2 cup ( 4 oz) dried cherries, chopped or at least halved
4 oz (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 6-8 pieces
2 1/2 cups all purpose unbleached flour
2 tsp granulated sugar
1 tsp (heaping) baking powder
1/4 tsp baking soda
1/2 c + 1 tbsp heavy or whipping cream

Marinate the cherries in 1/4 cup of either rosewater, cherry brandy or plain water. Preheat oven to 375º. Butter a cookie sheet or line it either with silicone liner or parchment paper.
   In a food processor or mixer bowl, combine the butter, flour, sugar, baking powder and baking soda. Process quickly, just until mixture looks like coarse meal. With the motor running, pour in the cream and process only until dough starts to form.  Drain the cherries and stir in. 
   Line your counter with wax paper. Form the dough into a ball and roll it out 1/2" thick. Cut 2-2 1/2" scones. Place on the cookie sheet. You don't have to leave too much room between them. Brush the tops with that 1 tbsp cream. 
  Bake 12 minutes until solid to the touch. Do not brown. Serve warm.   
 


You can offer whole apples with cheeses and nuts. You can serve an apple tart. Or you can add to your brunch or afternoon a beloved almost forgotten classic: (Alert: this requires deep fry.)
Apple Fritters

2 cups all-purpose flour 
1/4 cup white sugar 
1 tbsp baking powder 
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg 
1 tsp salt 
2 eggs 
1 cup milk 
2 quarts peanut oil for deep frying (it has the highest smoke point)
4 large apples, peeled and cored 
1/2 cup confectioners' sugar for dusting
In a medium bowl, mix together flour, sugar, baking powder, nutmeg and salt. In a separate bowl, beat together eggs and milk. Stir milk mixture into flour mixture until smooth.In a deep fryer or heavy bottomed deep pot or skillet, heat oil to 375º.

Slice apples into ½” rings. Dip apple slices in batter and fry, a few at a time, turning once, until golden. Drain on paper towels and dust with confectioners' sugar.

To serve wine not in a goblet but paired with vanilla for two in one, make this dessert:
Red Wine Poached Pearsfor 6 but you can half it 

3 c water
1 lg lemon, juice only
6 lg pears, still firm but ripe (Bosc does not work well here)
2 c dry red wine
1 c sugar
1 vanilla bean or 2 tsp vanilla extract
pinch of ground cloves
   Combine the water and half the lemon juice in a large bowl. Peel the pears but leave stems on. If they can't stand up, slice a little off the bottom until they do. Put them in the lemon water so they don't brown.
    In a large wide saucepan, mix wine, sugar and remaining lemon juice. Slit the vanilla bean, scrape its seeds into the wine, then toss in the pod too. Or add the vanilla extract. Bring to a boil and boil over medium heat about 5-7 minutes until you have syrup. Drain the pears and put them in the syrup, standing in a single layer, bottom down. Adjust heat to simmer, cover the pot and cook until pears are tender to the core. Baste from time to time. 
    When pears are tender, place them upright in a large serving bowl. Raise the heat under the wine syrup and boil for 3 minutes to reduce and thicken slightly. Pour it over the pears, vanilla bean and all. Set aside to cool but baste every so often. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate to serve chilled.
     

And give the day's grand finale all the chocolate you've got. Here are two exquisite recipes: one for a shiny heart and one that's gluten free for food fetishists.
Chocolate Heart (from Flo Braker)
(Alert: you need a heart shaped cake pan for this)

 3/4 cup (2 ounces) ground pecans
1/3 cup unsifted all-purpose flour
6 tbsp unsalted butter
6 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 tbsp water
1/3 cup each granulated and light brown sugar
3 large eggs, separated
1 tbsp rum, optional
1 tsp granulated sugar
Optional: 1 pint fresh raspberries, cinnamon hearts, nasturtium leaves


Adjust rack in lower third of oven and preheat to 350º. Grease and flour an 8-inch heart-shaped pan and line with waxed paper or parchment.
In a small bowl, mix nuts and flour. Melt butter and chocolate in small saucepan over low heat. Blend in water until smooth. Transfer warm chocolate mixture to a large bowl, stir in the sugars. Cool five minutes, blend in yolks, then rum, then stir in nut-flour mixture. Whip whites with one teaspoon sugar to soft, white peaks; stir-fold into chocolate mixture. Spoon batter into pan and smooth evenly. Bake 25 minutes, or until soft but not liquid in center. (Chocolate firms as it cools.) Remove from oven, cool 15 minutes, invert on rack. Peel off paper.

For the Glaze
6 tablespoons unsalted butter
4 ounces semisweet chocolate
2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, chopped
Place everything in a bowl that fits snugly over saucepan. Fill pan half full with 130º water, set bowl on top. Stir occasionally until mixture is smooth, shiny and liquid. Place cool cake on a piece of cardboard that is on a rack placed over jellyroll pan to catch spills. Pour the glaze over the cake and spread evenly with a long metal spatula.
You can go for Baroque and decorate with fresh raspberries or cinnamon hearts or edible red nasturtium leaves.



  Mocha Fudge Cake (flour free)
serves 14 but you have to make it a day ahead

1 c strong coffee (you can use instant)
1 lb semisweet chocolate, chopped
2 c sugar
2 c unsalted butter
8 eggs, lightly beaten

      Preheat oven to 250º. Butter a round 9x3" removable bottom cake pan. Line with a single piece of foil, pushing the foil to the bottom, then up the sides and over the top without tearing (no leaks wanted). If your foil is too narrow, greatly overlap two pieces. Butter the foil so nothing sticks to it.
    In a large saucepan, combine the coffee, chocolate, sugar and butter. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, until it feels like hot bath water. Remove from heat and whisk in the eggs, gradually. Pour the batter into the prepared pan and bake 1 1/2 hours. (If the center seems loose, don't worry, it will keep firming up as it cools.) Cool completely, cover and chill overnight.
    Before serving, try to level the top of the cake, then invert it onto a serving platter and remove all foil.

Make frosting
1 1/2 c heavy cream

1/4 c powdered sugar (confectioner's sugar)
1/2 tsp vanilla extract
Whip all ingredients together in a large bowl until very stiff. Frost the top and sides of the cake with this mixture. You can decorate the top with shaved chocolate, fresh raspberries, a pinch of nutmeg or just leave it alone. This is divinely rich.


 



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