Monday, March 12, 2012

The wherein of the green

The greening called St. Patrick's Day marks the last gasp of farmers' market winter greens like kale and collards as well as the first sprout of spring ones like dandelion. So it's an auspicious time to go green in the kitchen and think green and at least see green on the table if not in the wallet since this is also tax time. Greens are the super octane fuel that makes your body run, so indulge in some good-looking food.

Dandelions may be a pain on your lawn but dandelion greens are a traditional spring tonic in Mediterranean countries, welcomed at the table because they can cleanse the body of winter sludge. Farmers sell them bunched in what looks like large sheaves but they do cook down. Chop them up, boil them in heavily salted water for 15 minutes, drain well, dress with fruity olive oil and crystals of sea salt and sit down to some spring cleaning. You can add a twist of lemon if you like.

To give the dandelion greens more tang, you can let them share the pot with a few handfuls of chopped turnip or radish greens.

To make a whole and super healthy meal of them, while boiling the greens, stir up a pot of polenta. Season it with a pinch of chili powder, toss in the last corn kernels from the freezer and a tbsp or two of plain yogurt.
Dish out a bowl of polenta and cover the top with cooked dandelion greens. Bring on the freshly ground pepper, then eat and be well.

If dandelions haven't sprouted yet, there's still kale, collards and chard. Curly kale can be cut up raw as the basis of a salad. You can toss in dried cranberries, currants, roasted pine nuts and lemon peel before dressing it with olive oil and lemon juice. Or for more magnetic color, you can mix it with grated roasted beets and raw carrots before dressing it with olive oil and balsamic or sherry vinegar.

Chard straddles all seasons, almost all cultures too. In end of winter mode, it can be combined Palestinian style in a hauntingly spiced stew with beef, chickpeas and rice. In the lighter spring mode, it's welcomed as a vivid addition to lentil soup. Here's the Palestinian recipe for 4:

1+lb lean stewing beef cut into equal size serving chunks
1 lg yellow onion, peeled and diced
2 tsp allspice (5 berries if you have them)
1 tsp cardamom (5 pods if you have them)
1 cinnamon stick
2 whole cloves
1/2 tsp nutmeg
4 c. beef stock
4 c. water
1/2 c medium grain rice, rinsed
2 tsp salt
1 14 oz can chickpeas, drained
1 lg bunch chard, stems removed, washed and chopped into small pieces
5 garlic cloves
3 tbsp olive oil (divided)
juice of one large lemon, freshly squeezed

In a medium or large stockpot, heat 2 tbsp olive oil and brown beef with the onions.
Add beef stock and water and bring to a boil on high heat. Lower heat.
Add spices. Cover and simmer for 1 hour or until beef is tender. Skim off any foam or impurities.
Stir in rice, chickpeas and 1 1/2 tsp salt. Cook 10 minutes.
Add chard, stirring as you do. Decrease heat to lowest, cover and cook.
Mash the garlic with 1/2 tsp salt.
In a small saute or frying pan, heat 1 tbsp olive oil over medium heat.
Fry salted garlic paste 1 minute to lightly brown. Add to the stew and blend.
Stir in lemon juice and serve immediately.
Garnish with flat bread to soak up the juices.

To lighten this up, consider doing it with spring chicken and chicken broth instead of the beef.

Support your body. Support your local farmers, the hands that feed you. Eat greens.

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