Thursday, February 23, 2012

Taking Winter Blahs Off the Table

Going green is one way to combat those midwinter blahs known as the Februaries and prepare for St Patrick's Day coming up. All those emerald gems sparkling on the plate--kale, collards, chard, rabe or rapini, spinach -- are nutritional treasure chests that can keep you going strong. So are their paler cousins, cabbages, Brussels sprouts and kohlrabi. They are seasonal eating at its finest. Serve up a simple vinegary slaw of red and green cabbage, carrots and kohlrabi, seasoned perhaps with dill seed or caraway.

This is also the last hurrah for brilliant orange winter squashes. A jazzy way to brighten up sagging winter spirit is to turn them into a serving vessel for a beef stew, a chili or a colorful pilaf. Here's a recipe perfect for right now because it celebrates what's been stored in the pantry, puts dazzling color on the table and could be a meal in itself. It does take a bit of effort--easy all of it, which also makes it perfect for dispelling cabin fever. Make a party of it. It'll serve 6.

Red Kuri Squash Stuffed with a Saffron, Apricot and Cherry Pilaf

1 lg (2 1/2 lb) red kuri squash--or sugar pumpkin
1 cup (heaping) long grain Basmati or Jasmine rice (rinsed)
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp unsalted butter
a big pinch of saffron threads
1 1/2 tsp ground coriander
Peel of 1/3 orange (no pith please), sliced into very thin strips
1/4 cup pistachio nutmeats
1/4 cup roasted pumpkin seeds (pepitas)
1/4 cup dried cherries soaked in boiling water 5 minutes and drained
8-10 dried apricots, chopped into bite-size pieces
1 tsp rosewater
1/2 tsp salt
Freshly ground pepper to your taste
1 bunch flat leaf parsley, coarsely chopped
1 bunch mint coarsely chopped or 1/2 cup dried mint leaves
1 bunch dill, coarsely chopped
1 lemon cut in wedges for garnish
1 cup thick fresh yogurt for serving

Preheat over to 400º. Soak the saffron threads in 1 tsp hot water.

Wash the squash and microwave it just long enough to soften it so you can put a knife in.
Cut off the stalk end to use as a lid. Scoop out all seeds and strings. Put the lid back on the squash, put the squash on a baking sheet and put it in the oven for 1 hour.

Now, put the rice in a pot with just enough water to cover it. Add a pinch of salt and bring to a boil. Lower heat to simmer, partially cover the pot and cook 10-12 minutes until all the water is absorbed. (The rice will not be totally cooked, no worries.)

Meanwhile in a wide lidded skillet or casserole, heat oil and butter until butter melts. Stir in coriander, orange peel, pistachios, pumpkin seeds, drained cherries and apricots. Sauté one minute. Add the rice, saffron (with water) and rose water. Season with salt and pepper.

Turn off the heat. Cover the pot with a clean, dry dish towel and press the pan lid down over it to a tight fit. Let the pilaf steam for 10 minutes. Toss in the parsley, dill and mint.

When squash is ready, lift off the lid and fill it with the pilaf, gently stuffing it in. Put the lid back on and put the stuffed squash back in the oven for 20 minutes.

Remove the lid to serve. Slice the lemon into wedges. There are two ways to present this: one is to simply put the wedges all around the squash on a serving plate, put 1/4 of the yogurt on top of the pilaf and pass the rest in a separate bowl, and let everybody dig in. Or you can slice a 1/2" thick round off the top of the squash, lay this ring on a plate, fill it with the pilaf, top this with yogurt and place a lemon wedge to one side.

Serve as the center of attention with a side of garlicky steamed greens or serve with roasted meat. Either way, you can add the slaw above for a nutritiously delicious meal as colorful as a summer garden. You really don't need to eat tomatoes, blueberries and bell peppers flown in from South America.

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