Saturday, August 3, 2019

More on Salt, Water and Hot Stuff as Summer vitals

Here are a few more ways to get salt, water, oil and chili into your body to keep it fit in the heat of summer. To repeat: when the body sweats, it needs water to replace its loss, salt to hold water intake, oil to lube muscles losing moisture, and chili to cool the body via sweating. This is why Mother Nature is relentlessly slinging watery foods at us right now: cucumbers, berries, melons, tomatoes, summer squashes and fish. And why hot weather cultures have devised olive oil recipes and chili fixations and salty dishes that help us take the heat.  And remember most pickled foods can be considered salty foods because salt is one of the pickling agents.

I'm going begin posting tomato and berry recipes next time as these are the ultimate watery foods fit for the dog days of summer.

Fish with harissa and olives (water, salt and chili)
This is a Moroccan dish fit for royalty but it doesn't need a gaggle of chefs to make it. It's easy. Just control the heat to your taste. Serve with couscous and a cucumber salad.
serves 4

flour for dusting (or if you fear gluten try fine cornmeal or rice flour) 
salt and pepper to your taste
1/3 c olive oil
4 white fish fillets (cod, haddock, perch, halibut, etc)
1 med/lg onion, finely chopped
2 garlic cloves, smashed
1 14 oz can/box chopped tomatoes 
2 tsp harissa (this is North African chili sauce)
2 bay leaves
1 cinnamon stick
1 c black olives, pitted is probably safest)
1 tbsp + 1 tsp fresh lemon juice
3 tbsp flat leaf parsley, minced

In a small bowl, 2-3 tbsp flour with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Dust the fish fillets with this mix.

In a large heavy frying pan, heat half the olive oil over medium heat and add the fish. Cook over medium heat 2 minutes on each side or until both sides are golden. Remove to a plate.

Add the remaining olive oil to the hot pan. Add the onion and garlic and over med/low heat sauté until onion is soft. Add the tomatoes, harissa, bay leaves and cinnamon stick. Cook 10 minutes or until the sauce has thickened. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. (Remember the harissa is chili.)

Return the fish to the pan with the sauce. Add the olives and cover the fish with the sauce. Remove the bay leaves and cook 2-3 minutes until the fish is cooked through/tender. Remove the cinnamon stick, add the lemon juice. Stir in the parsley and serve.
 


Smashed cucumber salad (water)
Like Mediterranean and South Asian cultures, China recognizes the cucumber as the ideal summer heat food. And this is how it's served --with a few red pepper flakes to cool you off.


not my photo
serves 6
2 lbs thin-skinned cucumbers like English or Persian
1 tsp kosher salt, plus more for cucumbers
2 tsp granulated sugar, plus more for cucumbers
1½ tbsp rice vinegar
2 tsp sesame oil
2 tsp soy sauce
1 tbsp grapeseed or extra-virgin olive oil
2 large garlic cloves, smashed minced or pressed
Red pepper flakes, to taste
Small handful whole cilantro leaves, for garnish
2 tsps toasted white sesame seeds, for garnish \

Rinse cucumbers and pat dry. Cut crosswise into pieces about 4 inches long. Cut each piece in half lengthwise.
On a work surface, place a piece of cucumber (or several) cut side down. Lay the blade of a large knife flat on top the cucumber and smash down lightly with your other hand. The skin will begin to crack, the flesh will break down and the seeds will separate. Repeat until the whole piece is smashed. Break or slice diagonally into bite-size pieces, leaving the seeds behind.
Place the cucumber pieces in a strainer and toss with a big pinch of salt and a big pinch of sugar. Place a plastic bag filled with ice on top of the cucumbers to serve as a weight and place the strainer over a bowl. Let drain 15 to 30 minutes on the counter, or in the refrigerator until ready to serve, up to 4 hours.
Make the dressing: In a small bowl, combine salt, sugar and rice vinegar. Stir until salt and sugar are dissolved. Stir in sesame oil and soy sauce.
When ready to serve, drain off any remaining liquid from the cucumbers and transfer to a serving bowl. Drizzle with oil and toss. Add half the dressing, half the garlic and the red pepper flakes to taste, and toss. Keep adding dressing until cucumbers are well coated but not drowned. Taste and add more pepper flakes and garlic if needed. Serve immediately, garnished with cilantro and sesame seeds.

Cold Cucumber Soup
This could not be easier or healthier or more perfect to start a summer meal. Best of all you have to make it a day ahead.

2 large European cucumbers (2 1/4 pounds), halved and seeded—1/2 cup finely diced, the rest coarsely chopped
1 1/2 cups plain Greek yogurt
3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 small shallot, chopped
1 garlic clove
1/3 cup loosely packed dill
1/4 cup loosely packed flat-leaf parsley leaves
2 tbsp loosely packed tarragon leaves
1/4 cup olive oil, plus more for drizzling
Salt
Fresh ground white pepper
1/2 red onion, finely chopped

In a blender, combine the chopped cucumber with the yogurt, lemon juice, shallot, garlic, dill, parsley, tarragon and the 1/4 cup of olive oil. Blend until smooth. Season with salt and white pepper, cover and refrigerate for at least 8 hours or overnight.
Season the soup again just before serving. Pour the soup into bowls. Garnish with the finely diced cucumber, red onion and a drizzle of olive oil and serve.

Hunan/Szechuan style pole beans (chili heat)
These are probably best served with rice and whatever main dish you like.
serves 4-6

1 lb Royal Burgundy or Kentucky Wonder pole beans, trimmed and cleaned

2 cups peanut oil                                      

 2 sm chili peppers, seeded & minced

2 lg garlic cloves, minced                        

1 tbsp Hoisin sauce    

2” piece ginger, peeled and minced     

1 tbsp rice wine or dry sherry

3 scallions, finely chopped                    

1 tbsp dark soy sauce

Optional: ¼ lb ground pork



Heat oil in wok or deep saucepan until sizzling. Deep-fry beans 3-4 minutes, in batches if necessary, until slightly wrinkled. Remove and drain on paper towels.



Transfer 2 tbsp of hot oil to a clean wok or skillet. Add garlic, ginger, scallions and optional pork. Stir-fry 30 seconds. Add chili and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add remaining ingredients plus 1 tbsp water, stir to blend and warm over medium heat 1 minute. Add beans, blend with sauce and heat through to serve.



Sicilian lemon pudding (water) 
This is easier to make and less caloric than ice cream. It's very refreshing after a salty fish meal.


not my photo
Makes 6 small glasses/bowls

Zest and juice of 3 large unwaxed lemons
3 large eggs
1/4c cornstarch
3/4c white granulated sugar
3 1/4 c water
To serve: cherries or sour cherries in syrup, to serve

Zest the lemons. In a large bowl, vigorously whisk together the zest, eggs, cornstarch and sugar until you have a thick cream. You can use a mixer for this.
   Scrape the mixture into a medium pot, add the water and lemon juice and cook over a medium low heat, whisking continuously, until the pudding is thick enough to really coat/run slowly from the back of a spoon. It should get hot, and nearly, but not quite, boil. Pour into 6 glasses or small bowls and allow to cool, then put in the fridge for at least 6 hours, or until firm and chilled. Serve alone or topped with fruit, such as cherries in syrup.

Peach raspberry crisp (water)
 
This is one of the easiest, most popular summer desserts I know. If you want it to be totally gluten free (this has 1 tbsp flour to thicken the peach juices) use cornstarch instead of the flour.  You can also toss   shredded coconut into the crunchy topping mixture. 
BTW: In the photo here I made it in a throwaway tin because I was freezing it to brighten winter.


7-8 lg peaches, skins off
½ c fresh raspberries
1 lime, juice only
1 tsp rosewater (optional)
¼ c light brown or turbinado sugar
1 tbsp flour
½ tsp ground nutmeg
for the topping
¼ lb (1 stick) unsalted butter, softened
1 c oats
1 c chopped pecans
pinch of salt
½ c light brown or turbinado sugar
½ tsp ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350º.
To get the skins off the peaches dunk them in rapidly boiling water 30 seconds, then put in ice cold water. This will let you slip off the skins.  Slice the pieces thinly and arrange them in a 9-10 “ pie plate. Squirt them with the juice of a lime and optionally rosewater. Carefully blend in ¼ cup of brown sugar, 1 tbsp sieved or sifted flour (push it through a strainer to avoid lumps) and a pinch of nutmeg. Put the raspberries on top and try to push them in a bit but not much.

 For the crunchy topping: In a medium bowl, combine by hand the softened stick of butter, oats & chopped pecans, salt, brown sugar and cinnamon. You should get large clusters. Arrange these all over the peaches. They should cover but leave slight gapsBake at 350º until juice bubbles up and the topping is golden brown.

Serve with honeyed Greek yogurt, peach ice cream or whipped cream.





Tuesday, July 23, 2019

Oil and Salt: summer vitals

In the sweat of summer, the body needs hydration and lubrication. So Mother Nature revs up watery offerings like berries, melons, peaches, plums, tomatoes, summer squashes including zucchini and cucumbers as well as fish. Mediterranean cultures indulge in what they call "olive oil foods" and lots of salty ingredients like capers, anchovies, olives and other salt cured foods including feta cheese. Oily foods lube the muscles, salty foods help retain body water. In Asia, chili is natural air conditioning: it makes the body sweat, which means you are dehumidifying yourself the way an air conditioner does a room.  So hot, salty, watery and oily should be the summer eating bases to touch.
Here's watery food:

Fruit soup
There are many versions of melon soup. I just had watermelon habanero featured as the night's special at a local restaurant. This version, which I included in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, combines melon with other watery fruits.
Serves 5-6

1 banana, peeled
1 apple, cored, peeled and quartered
1 peach, peeled and quartered
½ cantaloupe, peeled and chunked
2-3 tbsp. honey or real maple syrup
1cup plain yogurt
½ tsp. ground nutmeg
handful fresh mint leaves
1 tbsp fresh squeezed lime juice
1¼ cup unsweetened apple juice or, if you prefer, orange juice
Optional garnish: fresh blueberries

Combine everything but the apple juice in a blender or food processor. Start to puree and after a few seconds pour the apple juice in as a steady stream to make a soup. It should be thick enough to eat with a spoon but not too thick to pour.Chill.

Serve garnished with fresh blueberries. 

Sesame Cucumber Salad
This is a Himalayan recipe for a cooling salad often served with fiery food. That makes it fine for a fiery day.
  Serves 4-6

2 ripe med slicing cucumbers, peeled, split and seeded or 4 Persian cucumbers
1 tsp coarse including kosher salt
1 tbsp (heaping) sesame seeds (if you can find roasted that speeds this up)
½ tsp ground turmeric
1 large lemon, juice only
1 sm green chili, seeded and minced
1 tbsp mustard oil or 1 tbsp veg oil with 1/8 tsp mustard seeds
1 tsp fenugreek seeds
optional garnish: a handful of chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Dry roast the sesame seeds in a small nonstick frying pan if they are not already roasted. Cool slightly and grind them to powder (a coffee grinder is perfect) or smash them in a mortar.

Cut the cucumbers into 2” lengths, then slice off thin strips into a medium bowl. Blend in ½ tsp salt and let the cucumbers stand for 15 minutes. Drain off any water that’s accumulated and pat the cucumbers dry. Blend in the ground sesame, turmeric, lemon juice, minced chili, and the remaining ½ tsp salt.

Heat the oil in a small pan. Fry the fenugreek seeds about 30 seconds until they start to color. Pour the oily seeds over the cucumbers. Optionally garnish with the cilantro and serve.

Melon feta salad

The popular version of this Greek/Turkish summer salad is made with watermelon but you can use honeydew or cantaloupe or Tuscan/Gaia melons as easily.  So I'm calling this melon salad.
serves 4

1 sm seedless watermelon or med/lg cantaloupe/honeydew/etc
12 Kalamata olives (pitted are easier to deal with)
 4-5 oz best quality feta cheese
handful fresh mint leaves
1/2 lemon, juice only
2 tbsp best quality olive oil
Sea salt to your taste

Halve the melon and remove the rinds and any seeds. Chop the flesh into large bite-sized pieces. Put them in a large serving bowl. Add the olives. Crumble the feta into large chunks and add it. Chop the mint leaves and add to the bowl. Blend everything. Keep refrigerated until ready to serve.

Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil in a small bowl. Pour on the salad when ready to serve. Season with salt.
 
Raita (Indian cucumber yogurt with mint) 
The Greek version of this is tzatsiki, the Turkish is caçik. The Greeks use dill instead of mint, the Turks use both or either, so you can do what you like best. The Greeks and Turks often serve this with fritters. The Indians serve raita with fiery curries and juicy kabobs. 
 makes 1 cup


1/2 c plain yogurt
1/2 c chopped seeded English hothouse cucumber
2 tbsp chopped fresh dill
2 tsp chopped green onions
1/4 tsp ground cumin

Mix all ingredients in medium bowl. Season to taste with salt. Chill covered, until ready to serve.
 
Additional watery food you may already know
*Watermelon agua fresca (recipe is in How to Fix a Leek....the book)
*German cucumber salad (recipe also in How to Fix a Leek...the book)
*Berry compote
*Greek Salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, Kalamata olives, green bell pepper, feta cheese, optional red onion)
*Tomato Pie (posted a recipe in summer 2018)

Here's olive oil food
Armenian green beans
This recipe is in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, which made it very popular. You can use the same preparation for okra, zucchini or eggplant. The idea is the same in Persian and Turkish cooking: simmer a summer vegetable in a lot of olive oil with tomato for the watery effect.
  serves 6-8

2 lbs green beans (e.g. Kentucky wonder, Blue lake), ends off
1 cup olive oil
1 lg red onion, sliced in thin rings
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 tsp dried oregano leaves
2 tsps dried thyme leaves
3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves
1 tsp coarse or freshly ground black pepper
1/8 tsp salt
3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped
1/3 cup chopped fresh dill

Cut the beans into a seemingly uniform length, between 3 and 4 inches long. Try to keep them in one direction.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy gauge casserole. Add the garlic, then onion rings and sauté over medium heat until the onion is soft but not yet browning. Add the beans. Add the rest of the ingredients except dill. Cover, lower heat to simmer and cook 20-30 minutes until the beans are tender. Remove from heat. Stir in dill and cool uncovered.
 Serve at room temperature.  (You can store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. This lasts several days.)

Ratatouille 
This is the Provencal (French) version of summer olive oil food, the veggies of summer--zucchini, eggplant, tomatoes, bell peppers--bathed in olive oil and the herb of summer, basil. You can make it the traditional way or you can alter the color scheme and taste by using yellow squash instead of zucchini, smoky poblano instead of green bell pepper and purple onion instead of yellow and for a taste change cilantro in lieu of basil. You have choices. Here's the more unusual version.
Serves 6-8

1 lb firm eggplant (any kind will work except the small Thai egg-like eggplant)
1 lg Poblano or pasilla pepper, roasted* and skinned
3 lg tomatillos, roasted*
½ cup olive oil
1 tsp cracked or freshly ground black pepper
1 tsp dried oregano
1 bay leaf
Optional: pinch ground chipotle pepper (for smoky flavor)
1 lg red onion peeled and cut into thin disks
4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 red bell pepper, seeded and sliced into thin strips
1 tsp salt
¼ tsp ground coriander
2/3 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves
¾ lb yellow or crookneck squash, cut into ¼” thick disks
1¼ cup chopped tomatoes with juices (boxed is okay)

*Roasting here means in a toaster or regular oven at 450 degrees for 5-8 minutes (less time in the smaller toaster oven) until the skin cracks and starts to char.

Wash the eggplant.  Slice it into thin disks and if the disks are much larger in diameter than 1”, which they will be from the common bulbous eggplant, cut the disks in half.  Place on a baking sheet, sprinkle lightly with ¼ tsp salt and 2 tbsp olive oil. Cover and roast at 425 degrees for 10 minutes.

Seed the pepper and cut into thin strips. Cut extra long strips into 2” lengths.

In a medium heavy gauge casserole or large saucepan, heat the remaining olive oil over medium heat.  Add black pepper, ½ tsp oregano, optional ground chipotle and bay leaf. Sauté 30 seconds.
 Add onion disks in a layer and top with garlic, poblano and red peppers. Do not stir. Continue to sauté 3-5 minutes until onions are soft. Sprinkle 1 tbsp chopped cilantro on top. Lower heat to simmer. Add eggplant as a layer. (Pieces might be two deep if the pot is not wide.) Sprinkle on ½ tsp oregano, ground coriander and ¼ tsp salt. Add 2 tbsp chopped cilantro. Cover pot and simmer 2-3 minutes.


Imam bayaldi
This is a traditional Turkish olive oil dish called "the imam fainted." It's because of all the expensive olive oil served to him.
For 8

4 small eggplants, the large Japanese work fine (about 1½-1 3/4 lbs)
Salt
¼ cup olive oil
¼ cup plus 2 tbsp best quality extra virgin, first cold pressed olive oil
2 med onions, peeled, halved lengthwise and thinly sliced
6 lg garlic cloves, peeled and minced
2 ripe tomatoes, peeled* and chopped
¼ cup (about 1/3 bunch) parsley leaves, chopped
2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper
juice of ½ lemon
½ -3/4 cup water

Cut stems off eggplants and peel strips of skin off at 1” intervals, for a striping effect.  Cut each eggplant in half lengthwise. Make a deep slit lengthwise through the fleshy side of the eggplant (the non-skin side), being careful not to cut all the way through and puncture the skin. If any of the halves do not lie perfectly flat on the skin side, slice off a tiny, thin piece so they do. Salt the exposed flesh, turn upside down and put on paper towels for 30 minutes to drain out the bitter juice. Rinse and dry.

In a very large skillet, heat the ordinary olive oil over high heat until it’s crackling or smoking. Put in the eggplants, flesh side down, and fry until golden brown, about 4-6 minutes depending on heat capacity, burner size and size of pan. Remove and drain on paper towels. Lightly salt.

In the same skillet, heat ¼ cup quality olive oil over medium high heat. Add onions and garlic. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes. Stir frequently so nothing burns. Pour the contents of the skillet into a medium-size bowl. Add tomatoes, parsley, dill, pepper, pinch of salt and 1 tbsp quality olive oil.  Blend well.

Arrange eggplant halves slit side up in the skillet. Carefully stuff each slit with as much onion mixture as you can and then cover all exposed eggplant with it. Sprinkle lemon juice over all eggplants.

Put 1 tbsp quality olive oil into the skillet. Add ½ -3/4 cup water, enough to cover the entire bottom so nothing will burn.
 Cover the skillet (use foil or a cookie sheet if you have no lid) and simmer over low heat until eggplants are soft, about 50-65 minutes, again depending on how big the burner is relative to the skillet. Check every 10-15 minutes to see if you should add water because there’s no juice in the bottom. 

Cool to room temperature. Pour any remaining skillet juices over the eggplants to serve. 

Taramasalata (also salty food)
This is one of the multitude of Mediterranean olive oil heavy pureés. The most famous is "hummus": chickpeas with olive oil and tahini. In southern Italy the puree is fava bean, which is served with chicory or any other bitter green. In Iran (Persia) it's red bell peppers pureed with walnuts into muhamarra. In the Levant it's eggplant and the result is baba ganoush. This Greek version also qualifies as salty food: tarama is cod roe.

not my photo
2 med red potatoes, boiled and peeled
4 oz fish roe
1 c best olive oil
1 1/2 lemons, juice only
2 tbsp red wine vinegar
2 tbsp water
1 sm onion, grated

In a mixer bowl, combine the roe and potatoes and beat until smooth. Gradually with the motor running, pour in the olive oil, lemon juice, vinegar and water to make a fluffy mixture. Fold in the onions. Optionally garnish with flat leaf parsley,
 Serve chilled with olives and pita or spread on crostini.

Other olive oil food you may already know
pesto
hummus
stuffed grape leaves
 

Here's salty food
Portuguese salt cod and chickpea salad
serves 4


3 cans chickpeas, rinsed and drained
1/2 lb dry salt cod, soaked in various changes of cold water for 16 to 24 hours in the refrigerator
1 small sweet onion, finely chopped (about 1/4 cup)
1 large garlic clove, finely chopped
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp cider vinegar
1 1/2 tbsp finely chopped parsley or cilantro
1 tsp coarse salt or to taste
hard-boiled eggs, chopped or cut in wedges for garnish
1/2 tsp paprika


Remove the fish from the soaking water and rinse. In a medium pot, bring 4 cups of water to a boil. Turn off the heat and add the cod. Cover for 15 to 20 minutes, then drain. Set aside until it is cool enough to handle. Hand-shred the cod, discarding any skin or bones, and place in a serving bowl together with the chickpeas, onion, and garlic.
In a small bowl, whisk the oil with the vinegar. Mix in the parsley and salt, if needed. Pour the dressing over the chickpeas and toss softly.
Garnish with the chopped eggs and a sprinkling of paprika. This dish can be served hot, cold, or at room temperature.

Sicilian pasta with anchovies and lemon

not my photo
Serves 4
1 sm onion
1 sm garlic clove
1 lg lemon
½ c extra virgin olive oil, plus more for toasting the breadcrumbs
2 oz. anchovy fillets
1/4c breadcrumbs
Salt
1 lb pasta (penne, mezze maniche, linguine, spaghetti)
1 tbsp flat leaf parsley chopped

Peel the onion and garlic. Cut the onion into eighths, and the garlic clove in half. Use a peeler to take off two strips of lemon. Put the olive oil, anchovies, onion, garlic and lemon in a frying pan and warm over a very low flame until the anchovies have disintegrated into the oil. Take off the heat and let sit.
Fry the breadcrumbs gently over a low-medium flame in a little olive oil, with a pinch of salt, until they are just starting to turn golden. Immediately remove from the heat.
Bring a pan of water to the boil, add salt, then the pasta and cook until al dente. Meanwhile, with a slotted spoon lift the onion, garlic and lemon from the oil.
In the last minute of pasta cooking time, gently warm the oil and anchovies. Once the pasta is ready, drain it, then mix with the oil, either in the frying pan, or if you have used a small pan, a bowl. Add the juice of half a lemon and toss vigorously to emulsify the oil and lemon juice into a cream. Divide between plates, and top each serving with crumbs, parsley and a little grated lemon.

Spanish cauliflower with capers
(Serves 4 as a tapa)
1 large cauliflower, broken into florets, leaves reserved
Pinch of salt
1 c milk
Extra-virgin olive oil, for frying
5 garlic cloves, sliced
5 tbsp drained capers
1 tsp cumin seeds
½ tsp sweet smoked paprika
3½ tbsp sherry or other white vinegar

Place the cauliflower florets in a large pan, cover with water. Add salt and the milk (this will make the cauliflower whiter and prevent odors). Cook over a high heat until al dente – about 8 minutes. Drain and refresh under cold running water, then set aside.
Pour a good drizzle of oil into a cold frying pan, add the reserved cauliflower leaves, garlic, capers and cumin seeds, then turn the heat to high. When the garlic turns golden, add the paprika and the sherry vinegar. Reduce the liquid for 30 seconds, then add the cauliflower to the pan. Make sure the ingredients are well mixed and serve.


Other salty foods you may already know
Italian salsa verde (posted last week)
potato chips


Next post: more salty food plus spicy food.

Friday, July 19, 2019

Time to get saucy

flat leaf parsley
Summer time and the cooking is easy.  No need to heat up a lot of pans or use up a lot of energy. Mother Nature is handing out bunches of green herbs that bring nutrition, color and taste to everything they touch. Don't underestimate the punch they pack. Easy elan every which way. So grab a farm fresh bunch of cilantro, parsley, mint and of course basil. 
Mint

Here again is the annual show of sauces you can make out of them to cover whatever you want to serve: simple like grilled fish or meat, or store bought spit roasted chicken, or focaccia, leftover rice, quickly steamed zucchini, or scrambled eggs.

Somali Bizbaz

1 large garlic clove, crushed

Juice of half a large lime

1/2 to 2 whole fresh Serrano chiles (depending on your taste)

1/2 to 2/3 tight-packed cup fresh cilantro leaves

1 to 2 teaspoons sugar, or to taste

1/2 cup low-fat plain Greek yogurt

Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste

More lime juice if needed



Place the garlic clove in a coffee cup and squeeze the lime juice over it. Let stand 20 minutes while you gather the other ingredients. 

Place the garlic, lime juice, chile, coriander leaves, sugar, yogurt, salt and pepper into the bowl of a food processor and purée. Taste for balance. Refrigerate an hour or so to mellow, and serve cool.

Nepali Cilantro Mint Sauce

1 med hot green chili
freshly ground black pepper
Salt to your paste
1 bunch fresh mint leaves (no stems)
1 bunch fresh cilantro leaves (no stems)
1 lime or lemon, all the juice you can get 
1 tbsp water

In a mortar and pestle or food processor, pulverize the chili. Add the other ingredients and process into a thick sauce. 
  You can use this on kofta or other meatballs, pasta, eggs, lentils, salmon, lots of etc.


Italian Salsa Verde
This is not the Mexican salsa verde. It's salty for a reason: in summer we need salt to help us retain water as we sweat. So think of this as glamorous medicine.
Makes enough for 4.


1 sm garlic clove
2-3 anchovy fillets
1 tbsp capers
1 tbsp Dijon mustard
1 tbsp red wine vinegar
1 heaping tbsp basil leaves
1 heaping tbsp flat leaf parsley leaves
1 heaping tbsp mint leaves (not spearmint)
4-5 tbsp olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Put the garlic in the food processor along with the anchovies, capers, Dijon mustard and red wine vinegar and blitz to a paste. Add the fresh herbs and “pulse” to incorporate. Add the olive oil and pulse briefly. Season with salt and pepper to your taste, remembering the anchovies and capers are already salty. 

Chimichurri, Argentine parsley sauce 
This is often referred to as Argentine steak sauce because it was concocted to top grilled beef in every form. But you can slather it on a lot of other things in summertime. And remember oil is vital in summer heat: it keeps the body lubed. So eat a lot of olive oil based sauces like this.

1/4 cup coarsely chopped parsley (leaves of 1/2 bunch)
3 tbsp red wine vinegar
4 large garlic cloves, minced (2 1/2 tbsp)
2 tbsp oregano leaves
2 tsp crushed red pepper
Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper
1/2 c extra-virgin olive oil

In a food processor, combine the parsley, vinegar, garlic, oregano and crushed red pepper. Process until smooth; season with salt and pepper. Transfer the sauce to a bowl and pour the olive oil over the mixture. Let stand for at least 20 minutes.
Make Ahead. The chimichurri can be refrigerated.

Moroccan Cilantro SauceThis was created to be slathered on thick white flesh fish like halibut and baked. But it's just as perfect for already roasted chicken or grilled pork. 
serves at least 6 

2 bunches fresh cilantro, washed and patted dry
1/2 tsp salt
3 garlic cloves, smashed
1 serrano chili, minced
1/2 tsp ground cumin
1/2 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp whole coriander seeds
2 tbsp paprika
1/2 c olive oil
3 tbsp fresh lime juice (2 limes)
Roughly chop the cilantro. Put it in a medium bowl and add ½ tsp salt, the garlic, chili, ½ tsp cumin, ½ tsp ground coriander, paprika, ½ cup olive oil and all the lime juice.  Stir to blend.



Yemeni Zhoug, a fiery ode to cilantro with a touch of cardamom

This is now popular enough to be sold at Trader Joe's! It's spelled many ways including schug.
 
 5 serrano peppers, stemmed and seeded
1 cup cilantro leaves
4 garlic cloves
1/4 c flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp sea or kosher salt
2 tsp ground cardamom
2 tsp ground coriander
juice of a large lemon
3/4-1 c olive oil

Combine everything but the oil in a food processor and whir until a coarse paste forms.  Transfer to a bowl and stir in the oil, starting with 3/4 c. Add more if needed. The sauce is not supposed to be perfectly pureed and smooth but chunkier.