Summer sizzle

Before I share a few cool summer recipes with glamour sizzle, here's another alert and reason to stick to your farmers' market; likely half the chicken parts sold in supermarkets and other industrial outlets carry sickening salmonella.  The USDA has become incapable of monitoring; troubles are everywhere. So please buy your chicken from your local farmer. No matter what the cost, it's going to be cheaper than the cure for salmonella poisoning.

Now back to our program!
A few more ways to be corny off the cob right now along with a few recipes for quick, tasty and above all nutritious dishes perfect for the heat of August. And naturally everything features the produce at high tide at your local farmers' market.

 Blueberry Muffins

It is blueberry bonanza time and in a few locales the tart teeny wild blueberries are momentarily available. You can savor them right now or preserve them for the long winter as blueberry muffins: these are the best ever, chockful of blueberries and sassy flavor. Easy enough for kids to make. Don't use the fatter high bush blueberries as they have too much water in them.  I have a recipe for those coming up.
This makes 6 giant muffins (using popover pan) or 10 regular size
1 stick unsalted butter (1/2 c)
3/4 c raw sugar or a mix of light brown and white
2 extra large/jumbo eggs or 3 large eggs
1 tsp vanilla extract
1/8 tsp orange flower water if you can find it; otherwise 1 tsp orange rind
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cardamom (optional in case you don't have it)
2 tsp baking powder
2 c unbleached white flour
1/2 c milk
2 c wild blueberries (frozen is okay just put a tsp of flour on them to absorb any ice)
pinch of ground cinnamon
1 tbsp light brown or raw sugar

Preheat oven to 375º.  Butter your muffin tin or tins.
In the bowl of a mixer or mixing bowl cream the butter with the sugar and do it until the butter is fluffy. Otherwise the muffins won't rise up.  Add the eggs one by one, beating as you go.  Add the vanilla, orange flavor you have, nutmeg and cardamom if you have it. Blend. Add the baking powder and flour together. Quickly mix just to start incorporating the flour into the batter. Add the milk and mix as fast as you can. (Long mixing of flour brings out the gluten that makes bread.) If you need a bit more liquid to make the mixture not so pasty add a tbsp milk.  Fold in the blueberries.

Fill the muffin tins to 7/8 full with the batter and shake the tins to get any air out. Sprinkle a tiny pinch of cinnamon on top of each muffin and then a pinch of sugar.
Bake at 375º 30-35 minutes until the tops are brown and the muffins have puffed up and a cake tester comes out clean. Cool 5 minutes before inverting to release the muffins.  Enjoy!

 Cold Zucchini Soup
This is an old recipe from Jacques Pepin with add-ons from me..
serves 6-8

5-6 med zucchini
1 lg onion, peeled and thinly sliced in rings
1 1/2 tsp curry powder
1/2 tsp dried basil
3 c chicken broth
1 c heavy cream
1/2 c milk
Salt and freshly ground pepper
Chives, finely chopped for garnish
Parmesan cheese, grated finely for garnish

Rinse and dry the zucchini. Cut off the ends. Cut 1 zucchini in half lengthwise then thinly slice one half and stack the pieces. Cut into thin match size strips. Put them in a saucepan, cover with water, bring the water to a boil and cook 3 minutes. Drain well and set aside.

Cut the remaining half of the zucchini and the other zucchini into 1" lengths. Cut each into quarters. Put into a large saucepan. Add the onion slices, curry powder and dried basil. Stir to blend. Add the chicken stock and bring to a boil. Cover the pan, reduce heat to simmer and cook 45 minutes. Put the pot contents into a blender or processor or use an immersion blender to create a purée. Add the cream, milk, salt and pepper to your taste. Add the reserved zucchini strips. Chill thoroughly. Serve garnished with the chopped chives and cheese.

Sauteed Greens with Olives
This is the way to use up all those greens you were going to trash: turnip tops, radish tops, wilted lettuce, beet greens....an alternative to my trash torte.

2 tbsp olive oil
4 garlic cloves,thinly sliced
1/2 tsp crushed red pepper flakes
10 c mixed greens (kale, chard, beet, turnip, lettuce, spinach, arugula)
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c Kalamata olives, pitted and halved  (6-8)
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice

In a large skillet heat the oil over medium flame. Add carlic and cook, stirring, until it begins to brown, maybe 2 minutes. Add pepper flakes, stirring and cook another minute. Add greens, handful at a time and toss until wilted. Season with salt and pepper to your taste and continue to cook until all greens are wilted, maybe 3 minutes. Add olives and lemon juice and toss to combine everything.  Serve warm.

Boston Corn Bread

This is a great moment for cornbread with real corn kernels added for crunch because cornbread goes so well with summer seafood, especially clams and lobster and grilled fish. It's great with grilled chicken and pork as well. Paired with grilled vegetable kabobs and those sauteed greens above, it makes a substantial meal.

Serves 6-8
 2 c unbleached flour
1 c yellow cornmeal
3/4 c white sugar
1/2 tsp salt
1 tbsp baking powder
2 lg eggs
1 1/2 c milk
1 1/2 tbsp corn oil
1/4 c melted butter
2 c corn kernels (4 ears)
1/2 tsp chipotle chili powder

Preheat oven to 350º. Lightly oil a 9" cast-iron skillet and put it in the oven to heat.
In a large bowl, sift together the flour, cornmeal, sugar, salt, chili powder and baking powder.
In another bowl, whisk together the eggs, milk and oil. Combine the two bowls. Add the melted butter and corn and stir with a spatula just until blended, no more.

Remove the cast-iron skillet from the oven and pour the batter into it. smack the pan on a countertop to even the batter and remove air pockets. Put in the oven and back 1 hour until corn bread is browned on top and a tester comes out clean.  Serve warm.

Scallop and Corn Salad
Another way to recycle corn off the cob.
Serves 6

1 c dry white wine
1 1/2 lbs scallops (bay or sea)
2 c cooked corn kernels (about 4 ears)
1/2 c diced celery
1 c diced red bell pepper (1 large or 2 medium)
1/4 c red onion, very finely chopped (you can use 4-6 red scallions)
3 tomatoes, cut in wedges
3 sprigs fresh tarragon or 1/2 tsp dried leaves
1/4 c dill, minced
1 tsp sea salt
1/4 tsp Tabasco
1 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 c mayonnaise

Bring 4 c water and 1 c wine to a boil. Add scallops and stir gently cooking over high heat 2-3 minutes until they are poached. Drain and cool to room temperature. If you are using large sea scallops, quarter them when cool.
In a large bowl, combine scallops, corn, celery, red pepper and onion/scallions.
In a small bowl, combine the tarragon, dill, salt, Tabasco , vinegar and mayonnaise. Blend well and power over the scallop/ corn mix.
Serve on a bed of fresh greens  and surround with tomato wedges. 

This is going to be corny

It's August "and the corn is as high as an elephant's eye" so we have to take full advantage of the abundance. There is NO corn like local farmers' market corn, the real old fashioned non GMO kernels on a cob just harvested.  Remember to refrigerate the corn if you aren't cooking it right away. Remember to blanch the kernels if you want to freeze them for later.

Naturally the best way to eat corn right now is naturally right on the cob, gnawing it off in neat rows. Salt it heavily of course. Your next flavor options are many. They start with melted butter...plain. Then there is melted butter with Middle Eastern za'atar or Indian curry powder or loads of freshly ground black pepper. Also garlic butter. Consider black olive paste. I favor top quality olive oil and a sprinkling of Aleppo pepper (a Middle Eastern medium hot chili). Don't underestimate basic salsa or cilantro pesto, even salsa verde and Yemeni zhoug. 

When you tire of gnashing your teeth against the cob and want to cut the kernels off for something less messy, here are a few thoughts:

Summer Squash and Corn Succotash

What we call succotash is native American corn and beans. Here's a vegetarian southern side dish version (minus bacon usually found in New England versions). It calls for pattypan squash but you can use small zucchini or yellow summer squashes. This is perfect besides fried or grilled chicken or grilled fish.

Serves 4-6

3 tbsp unsalted butter
3/4 lb baby pattypan or other summer squash cut into 1" pieces
1 sm red bell pepper, chopped into bite sized pieces
2 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob
1 c lima beans
1 1/2 tsp coarse sea salt
1 tsp dried thyme leaves
2 tbsp cilantro leaves, finely chopped
pinch of ground cayenne pepper
1 c cherry tomatoes, halved (maybe 8-10)
2 tbsp fresh lemon juice 
2 tbsp fresh chives, chopped

Melt the butter in a large skillet over med/high heat. Add squash and red bell pepper and sauté  3 minutes, stirring occasionally, until quash is tender and golden. Add corn, lima beans, salt, thyme, black pepper and cayenne. Continue cooking, stirring occasionally 3-5 minutes until everything is tender. Stir in cherry tomatoes, cilantro and lemon juice. Remove from heat.  Serve garnished with chives.



Baked Tomatoes stuffed with Corn

This is very timely, taking in the two vegetables that define summer eating and run at high tide together.
 Note: this is not my photo
serves 4-6

4-6 blemish free ripe heirloom tomatoes not too soft
3 tbsp olive oil
Sea salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste
4 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob
2 tbsp red onion, diced (half a small)
2 tbsp cilantro leaves, finely chopped
6 tbsp melted butter
1/3 lb mozzarella cheese, finely shredded
2 tbsp bread crumbs

Cut a slice off the top of each tomato. With a small spoon, carefully pull out the pulp and seeds without damaging the skin.  Put the insides in a medium bowl. Turn the tomatoes upside down on paper towels or a plate to drain 15 minutes.

Preheat oven to 375º. Brush the bottom of a baking dish large enough to hold the tomatoes in one layer with olive oil so nothing will stick. Stand the tomatoes up in the baking dish and season each one with salt, pepper and 1 tsp olive oil.

To the tomato pulp in the bowl add the corn, onion, cilantro, melted butter and a pinch of salt. Mix well and stuff into the tomatoes. Sprinkle a few breadcrumbs on top of each, then cover the tops with the mozzarella. Bake 30-35 minutes until cheese is melted and golden and tomatoes are baked.

New Mexican Corn Tart
This old favorite will take you into fall when you might want to serve it at brunch with baked ham. Right now with a tomato salad it's lunch. NOTE: this is flourless and thus gluten free!  Oops, can't find my photo!
serves 6

1/4 c ground sunflower seeds
6 ears corn, shucked and kernels cut off
1/2 c heavy cream
6 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
1/3 c sugar (making some of it brown sugar adds flavor)
3 eggs, separated
1/4 tsp salt
3 tbsp dark rum
1 tsp baking powder
pinch ground cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter a 10" pie plate and sprinkle 2 tsp ground sunflower seeds around the bottom.
In a food processor or chopper, puree 1 1/2 c corn kernels with the cream. Add the remaining corn and set aside.
In a large bowl, cream butter with the sugar, getting the mix fluffy. One by one add egg yolks, beating as you go. Beat in baking powder, salt, run and cinnamon. Stir in the corn mix and remaining ground sunflower seeds.  In a separate large bowl beat the egg whites with a pinch of salt until they form stiff peaks.  Carefully fold  them into the batter so they don't deflate too much. Pour into the pie dish. 
Bake 35 min or until brown and puffed. Cool 10 minutes before serving.  Serve with maple syrup and a dollop of creme fraiche or sour cream.


Corn, Avocado and Pepperoni Salad

This recipe uses up cooked corn on the cobs nobody had room to finish. You could turn this into a lunch meal by adding 1 c cooked farro or fregola.

serves 4 not as the main entry
 Combine in a serving bowl:
4 ears cooked corn, kernels off the cob
6 pitted black olives, sliced
4 purple/red onion scallions or 1 sm red onion, diced
1 avocado, ripe, cut into bite sized chunks
1 sm red bell pepper, chopped into bite sized pieces
10 thin slices pepperoni, cut into quarters
1/4 c cilantro leaves, chopped

For the dressing: combine in a small pitcher or bowl
2 limes, juice only
1/8 tsp chili powder
1/4 c olive or corn oil
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Pour dressing over salad 10 minutes before serving so flavors marinate.

Corn Chili Souffle
This is an old James Beard recipe, often served beside pork, but it stands on its own with a huge tomato and green herb salad. I've added options. Alert to vegetarians: it calls for bacon.
serves 6

1 c cornmeal
4 ears of corn, shucked, kernels off the cob and cooked
1 c milk
6 eggs, separated
2 tsp baking powder
Salt and freshly ground pepper to your taste  (the recipe called for 2 tsp salt)
1 c pimento stuffed green olives, chopped
1 sm green chili pepper, seeded and minced (I prefer Serrano) OR
1 med/lg poblano pepper, finally chopped (a milder smokier flavor)
1/4 tsp ground chipotle chili powder
1 1 /2 c crisp bacon bits (or 1 c crisply fried chorizo bits)
3/4 c grated parmesan cheese (you could also up the flavor with 1/2 c parmesan and 1/4 c grated cheddar)

 Preheat oven to 375º. Liberally butter a 2 qt baking dish or souffle pan.
Put the cornmeal and the corn in a large pot with the milk. Heat over medium, and stir continually with a whisk until it begins to thicken. Remove from heat and stir in the egg yolks, salt and pepper, baking powder, olives, chopped chili and chipotle powder.  Add bacon and cheese and stir well.

In a medium bowl, beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Very slowly with a rubber spatula fold the egg whites into the corn mixture, trying not to deflate them. Pour into the buttered baking dish and bake 35 minutes or until a tester comes out clean. 

Simple recipes for summer surplus

It's mid summer and produce is at high tide in farmers' markets. So here are a few ways to enjoy some of it right now:

Tomatoes:
Tuna Stuffed Tomatoes, Italian Style
This is something of an olive oil dish from Italy. 
 

Makes 4

4 tbsp olive oil
4 ripe, flawless medium/large heirloom tomatoes (don't buy paste tomatoes)
1 small onion, minced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 c bread crumbs
1 tsp dried oregano
1 7 oz can oil packed tuna
2/3 c fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
1 tbsp capers
6-8 Kalamata olives, pitted and chopped 
2 tsp freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c Parmesan or Asiago cheese, grated
Sea salt to your taste

Preheat oven to 375º. Get out a baking dish with room for all the tomatoes and very lightly coat the bottom with 1 tbsp olive oil.
Carefully slice a very thin slice of the base of any tomato that doesn't stand up straight. Do not puncture the interior. Slice the top off each tomato and spoon out as much of the juicy insides as you can without puncturing the sides; you need a solid shell for the filling. Sprinkle the inside of each tomato with a pinch of salt, turn each upside down on a paper towel to drain.

While they drain, coat the bottom of a small frying pan with 2-3 tbsp olive oil depending on the size of the pan. Warm over med heat. Sauté the garlic, onions and black pepper over med/low heat until the onions are soft, maybe 4 minutes. Don't burn the garlic. Stir in the breadcrumbs, oregano and tuna with its oil. Cook 1 minute to warm, the remove from heat. Stir in capers, 1/2 c parsley and the olives. Blend well.

Line the tomatoes in a baking dish and stuff each to overflowing, packing down as you go. Sprinkle each top with 1 tbsp of grated cheese. Cover the baking dish with foil and bake 20 min. at 375º. Cool to room temp and sprinkle the remaining parsley on top of each one to serve.

NOTE; You can also fill 6 tomatoes by adding 1 c cooked orzo to the mix just before stuffing.

Peaches
Peach Chutney

I made the pictured batch with a few wild blueberries found in the freezer from last year this time but you can make it plain or with a few raspberries.
This makes 7 4oz jars

6 med/lg good quality peaches, ripe
1 c pecan halves, lightly toasted
2 tbsp grated fresh ginger peeled
1/2 c raisins
Optional: 1/2 c wild blueberries or fresh raspberries
1/8 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/2 tsp ground cardamom
3/4 c brown or turbinado sugar
1/2 c raspberry or plum vinegar
1/4 c apple cider vinegar

Dip the peaches into boiling water 60 seconds, then drain and run under cold water so the skins slip off.
Put the canning jars into a large pot of boiling water to sterilize them.
Chop the peaches into small pieces. Combine everything but the pecans in a deep heavy pot and cook over med/high heat to a boil. Keep cooking, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon until the mixture starts to thicken. You will know because it will part for the spoon and you will see the bottom of the pot. Toss in the pecans and continue cooking until the mixture is thick enough to stick to the spoon.
Remove the jars from the boiling water and fill with the chutney, pressing down to prevent air pockets. Close tightly and return to the water bath 12-15 minutes.  Remove. When you hear the "pop" you will know jars are sealed. Cool, label and store. Great gift!

Corn
Corn and Crab Chowder
serves 6 as a cup

4 ears corn, cleaned of all husk and silk
1 lg potato
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1 lg onion, finely chopped
5 small heart of celery stalks, finely chopped
1 sm carrot, diced into cubes
1/4 c fresh red bell pepper, seeded and diced
1 c half and half
1 c bottled clam juice
1 c water or fish broth
1/2 tsp red pepper flakes
Salt to your taste
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste
3/4 lb crabmeat, clean of shells and cartilage
1/4 c fresh cilantro, finely chopped

Fill a pot with just enough water to cover the corn cobs. Bring the water to a boil, put the corn in and when the water returns to boiling, cover the pot and remove from heat. Let stand 5 minutes to blanch the corn. Drain and cool.  Cut off the kernels; hopefully you have 2 cups.

Peel the potato and cut it into small cubes. Heat butter in a medium pot over low heat until it's foamy. Add onions, carrot, red bell pepper, celery and potatoes. Cook over medium heat until onions are soft. In a small pot over low heat, bring the half-and-half to a simmer. Pour it, the clam broth, water, red pepper flakes, salt and pepper into the pot with the vegetables. Add the corn and half the crab. Simmer 6-8 min until the potatoes are tender and not mushy. Add the remaining crab. Stir gently to blend. Heat thoroughy.
Ladle into soup bowls and sprinkle with freshly chopped cilantro to serve. 

Eggplant
Italian Stuffed Eggplant

A change from the lamb stuffed Persian eggplant and the chickpea stuffed Arabic dish, a treat for vegetarians.
 
 serves 4
4 sm eggplants
6 tbsp olive oil
3 garlic cloves, minced
8 anchovy fillets
6 parsley sprigs
1 tbsp capers
2 tbsp coarsely chopped pitted Kalamata olives
1 tsp dried oregano leaves
1 1/2 c breadcrumbs
1/2 sm chili pepper, seeded and minced or 1/4 tsp red pepper flakes
12 thin slices fresh tomato
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Preheat oven to 350º. Cut eggplants carefully in half lengthwise and scoop out as much flesh as you can without puncturing the skin. Chop the flesh. Chop the garlic, anchovies and parsley together

 In a skillet, heat 2 tbsp olive oil over med heat and add the flesh. Sauté stirring 1 minute. Add the garlic parsley mix. Add capers, olives, oregano, breadcrumbs and chili. Stir in 3 tbsp olive oil. Fill the eggplants with this mixture. Cover each with an overlapping layer of tomato slices. Sprinkle with sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. Sprinkle the remaining olive oil over each eggplant. Place each on a baking sheet and bake at 350º 30 min until bubbling hot. 


All the leftover odds and ends vegetables
Vegetable Paella

Quick and comforting. Uses up what's lingering in the fridge so there's no ironclad recipe here. Just try to assemble 1 c of veggies for every person and be sure to include onion and carrots. Peas, green and red bell peppers are perfect. So are green beans cut into small pieces, fava beans, salad (Hakurei) turnips, corn, summer squashes, celery, cauliflower cut into small bites, 1 tomato grated.  If you are a carnivore, you can use a few small bits of chorizo to flavor this.

Liberally coat the bottom of a sm/med paella pan or sautoir with olive

oil. Warm it over med heat.  Toss in the chorizo if using, onions, peppers, carrots, celery, turnips and sauté 3 min to soften. Add the remaining vegetables and season with salt to your taste. Season with 1/4 tsp smoked paprika per person and continue to cook another 3 minutes.  Add 1/2 c paella or Calasparrra rice per person and 1 c veg broth for every 1/2 c rice. Add a pinch of saffron to glamorize the whole thing and cook over med/low heat until the rice has absorbed all the liquid. Test to see if the rice is cooked: if not add more liquid and cook til it's gone. Serve garnished with chopped cilantro.

Olive Oil Food for the Sweaty Season: The real Mediterranean diet

Heat and humidity are upon us and the Mediterranean people have a cure for that. They call it olive oil food. Almost all the cultures around that sea have recipes for right now that feature vegetables coated in oil intended to lube the body as it sweats out the moisture muscles, tendons and tissue need. You already know some of the more famous ones, just not their medicinal purpose: ratatouille in France, Imam bayaldi in Turkey, tabouli in Syria/Lebanon which is an olive oil parsley salad held together with a bit of bulgur. The trick is to be liberal with oil. And remember many of the vegetables Mother Nature is mercifully heaping on us are full of water--moisturizing we also need. So looked at this way, something like traditional Greek Salad becomes a double lube job: water filled tomatoes and cucumbers with salty olives and lots of olive oil--that's the basis.

Olive oil dishes are vital to your recipe collection and since most are already classics, they can bear repeating. So some of these are new and some have been posted same time every year for the same reason. You will find Imam Bayaldi and ratatouille in Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking and in an earlier post. Also true tabouli is in an earlier post.

Armenian Green Beans

The Greeks also have a version of green beans braised in olive oil and many other beans cooked the same way. This particular recipe has been the favorite of new cooks who bought Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking where I first shared it. It's handy to have around: for an appetizer, a salad, part of a vegetarian meal or tapas presentation, even a quick lo cal nutritious snack.

serves 6-8

2 lbs green beans (e.g. Kentucky wonder, Blue lake), ends off

1 cup olive oil

1 lg red onion, sliced in thin rings

5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 tsp dried oregano leaves

2 tsps dried thyme leaves

3 tbsp chopped fresh parsley leaves

1 tsp coarse or freshly ground black pepper

1/8 tsp salt

3 medium tomatoes, seeded and chopped

1/3 cup chopped fresh dill

Cut the beans into a seemingly uniform length, between 3 and 4 inches long. Try to keep them in one direction.

Heat the olive oil in a heavy gauge casserole. Add the garlic, then onion rings and sauté over medium heat until the onion is soft but not yet browning. Add the beans. Add the rest of the ingredients except dill. Cover, lower heat to simmer and cook 20-30 minutes until the beans are tender. Remove from heat. Stir in dill and cool uncovered. Serve at room temperature.  (You can store in the refrigerator until ready to serve. This lasts several days.)

Crete's Watermelon and Feta Salad

Note: you can't get more water per bit than from a watermelon which is why it's so perfect when we're sweating. This is not the usual run of the mill watermelon with feta. It's charred feta with mint and watermelon.

Serves 4-6

2-3 slices sourdough bread, cut in cubes (squares)

1/3 c olive oil at least

1+ lb watermelon flesh only (not the rind), cut into bite sized pieces

10 Kalamata olives, pittted

2 tbsp fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

a handful of purslane or arugula or flat leaf parsley. finely chopped 

1/2 lb fresh sheep milk feta, cubed

Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Preheat oven to 350º. Put the sourdough squares on a baking tray. Drizzle liberally with olive oil and bake until golden. 

While that's happening, combine 5 tbsp olive oil with the watermelon, olives, mint, purslane or equal, salt and pepper in a large bowl. Mix gently to coat everything with the oil. 

When close to serving, put a small heavy frying pan on high heat and when it's really hot, add 1 tbsp olive oil then the feta cubes. Toss to coat the feta and coot on med heat until the edges of the feta are slightly charred. Toss into the salad, add the toasted sourdough, and blend everything.

Panzanella, Italian Bread Salad

This is a great way to use yesterday's bread. It's a terrific party dish which includes pot luck ventures.

Serves 6

6 thick slices yesterday's Tuscan, French or Levain bread (any very crusty, dense bread)

2 sm red onions, sliced into thin rings

1 lg green bell pepper, diced into bite-sized pieces (about 1” sq)

4 med/lg freshly ripe tomatoes (these are the star of this show), chunked

½ cup shredded Parmesan, Romano or Asiago cheese

12 black olives, pitted

1 tbsp capers

½ cup fresh basil leaves, finely chopped

¼ cup fresh flat leaf parsley, minced

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp red wine vinegar

½ cup best quality olive oil + 3 tbsp more

Freshly ground black pepper and salt to taste

Put 3 tbsp olive oil in a shallow bowl. Cut bread into bite sized chunks and soak in the oil.

Toast the bread at 400º for 5 minutes or until crunchy and browned.

In a small bowl, whisk together garlic, salt, vinegar and olive oil to make a dressing.

Put toasted bread into the bottom of a large serving bowl. Add the onion rings, chunked tomatoes and diced pepper. Add olives, cheese and herbs.

Pour on the dressing and blend everything. Season liberally with black pepper freshly ground and serve.
(not my photo)

Greek style Stuffed Peppers
serves 4-8 people (whole or half)

4 large unblemished bell peppers (any color is fine)
1 c short grain rice  (Basmati won't work well here) 
1/3 c and 2 tbsp. olive oil
2 garlic cloves, minced
2 tbsp fresh dill, chopped
1 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 bunch scallions, cleaned and finely chopped, greens too
1/2 c currants
1/2 c pine nuts
1/3 c dry white wine
1/3 c tomato paste
1 tsp ground oregano
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 
optional: 1 tsp aleppo chili powder
1 tsp ground nutmeg

Preheat oven to 325º.
Clean out the peppers of their seeds and pith by cutting a small piece off the top. If they don't stand up straight trim the bottom so they do but be careful not to pierce any holes. Submerge the cleaned peppers in boiling water to blanch for 2 min so they are slightly softened.
Boil 1 c rice in 2 c water. It will be partially cooked and that's okay.

In a med sauté pan, warm 1/3 c olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic, dill, parsley, scallions and pine nuts and sauté over med/low heat 5 minutes to soften the scallions and brown the pine nuts. Don't burn or brown the scallions. Add the currants, white wine, tomato paste, oregano and optional aleppo pepper and continue to sauté on low heat. Add rice when it's ready. Season with salt and pepper to your taste.  Blend everything. Remove from heat and stuff the mixture into the peppers to the top remembering the rice will expand a bit more. Top each with a sprinkle of nutmeg.

Cover the bottom or a square baking pan with 3 tbsp olive oil and 3 tbsp water. LIne the peppers up in the baking pan. Cover the pan tightly with foil and bake at 325º 20-25 minutes until peppers are soft and the rice is fully cooked.  Cool slightly to serve. Or these may be refrigerated and served at room temperature. They pack well for a picnic or boat ride. In the photo I have garnished with mint leaves and surrounded with pitted kalamata olives.

Pesto Shrimp Salad
Pesto is a summer delight of basil blended with lots of olive oil. We forget it's an olive oil food.
serves 4-6

to make the pesto (pine nuts not included as they will be on the salad):
2 1/2 c fresh basil leaves
1 tbsp coarsely ground black pepper
3 cloves garlic, minced
pinch of salt
1/3 c freshly ground Parmesan cheese
2/3 -3/4 c good quality olive oil (enough to thin the pesto into a thick sauce)
Combine all that in a blender or processor and prepare a thick smooth sauce.

For the salad:
1 lb small shrimp, cooked
1 lb fresh peas, cooked
1 lg red onion, finely diced
2 stalks of fennel or celery, finely diced 
1 lb small pasta (rotini, penne, cavatelli, orechietti) cooked
1/2 c pine nuts, toasted golden
Combine all that in a serving bowl. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. Stir in the pesto and combine everything. (You may not need all that pesto so be careful and go in increments.) 
Serve immediately or refrigerate. Serve garnished with more pine nuts and/or pitted black olives and fresh basil leaves.  

 

Summer in France

For something new and different, I pulled some classic summer dishes from my 30-year-old collection of French housewife recipes, and translated those described as not much time, trouble or cost. They all feature one of the fruits or veggies piled high right now at farmers' markets everywhere.  Enjoy!

Stuffed Zucchini in Provence
This is exactly how the recipe reads. I would add a tsp of Aleppo chili pepper or chipotle pepper to the meat mix because I like the stronger flavor. The French would probably gasp.

serves 4 -6

1+ lb lean ground beef
1/2 lb pork sausage meat (not in the casing)
5 good looking med/lg zucchini
2 med green bell peppers
4 ripe tomatoes (juicy ones are best)
6 shallots, peeled and diced
5 garlic cloves, peeled and minced
1 egg
2 sprigs fresh thyme or 1/2 tsp dried
1 tsp chopped tarragon leaves, fresh or 1/2 tsp dried
scant 1/4 c olive oil
Sea salt to your taste
Freshly ground black pepper

 Preheat oven to 350º.
Lightly coat the bottom of a sauté pan with olive oil. Salt the sausage meat and brown it in the oil.
While that's happening, put the ground beef in a bowl with salt, pepper, shallots and garlic. Mix well. Add to the pan with the sausage meat, blending everything well. Add the thyme and tarragon. Sauté over low heat 5 minutes to brown the beef. Remove from heat. 

Fill a large pot with enough water to cover the zucchini, salt it and bring the water to a boil. While waiting, cut the zucchini in large pieces, at least 2" and using a knife, hollow them out, leaving 1/2" flesh around the rim. (See photo) Blanch the cut zucchini logs in the boiling water 1 minute. Remove the zucchini with slotted spoon and drain well. Throw the tomatoes into the water quickly, then remove, run under cold water and slip off their skins.  In a small bowl, smash the tomatoes into a mash.

Wash the peppers, cut in half to remove the seeds and cut lengthwise into the thinnest strips possible.
Carefully blend the egg into the meat mixture.

Lightly oil a baking platter you can serve on and cover it with the mashed tomatoes. Put the pepper strips on top all around. Salt and pepper to your taste.
Fill the hollow zucchini logs with the meat mixture. Top each with a sprinkle of olive oil and arrange over the tomatoes and peppers. Bake 25-30 minutes, basting at intervals. Serve garnished with fresh chopped parsley. It would probably be delicious and vivid with a grated carrot salad filled with fresh chopped parsley. (See Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking for the French carrot salad.)

Melon Surprise

This one is categorized as very fast and very simple--and dietetic!
serves 4

2 med cantaloupe or similar melon
2 peaches
1 doz cherries (I say you can substitute raspberries or blueberries)
1 doz strawberries
2 tsp sugar
4 oz creme fraiche
4 oz fromage blanc (this is any soft white cheese a bit thicker than creme fraiche)
garnish: chopped fresh mint leaves and a sprinkle of ground nutmet (this is my idea; it's not in the recipe)

Clean the melons with a damp cloth. Cut each in half and scoop out the seeds. Using a melon ball scoop or similar, carefully scoop out the melon flesh without cutting through the skin. Leave 1/4" flesh on the skin. Peel the peach and cut it into bite-size pieces. Half the cherries to remove the pits. You won't have this problem with raspberries or blueberries.  Wash and dry the strawberries and cut in half lengthwise.

In a small bowl combine the creme fraiche and fromage blanc with the sugar and whisk into a soft cream. Put a tbsp of this into the bottom of each melon half, then fill the melons with all the fruits. Put the rest of the cheese mix on top. Refrigerate 2 hours and serve garnished with mint leaves and nutmeg if you choose.

Stuffed Eggs Latour

This one is categorized as gourmet.
serves 4-5

6 extra large eggs. hard boiled
3 oz. mushrooms
2 oz. chicken breast meat, cooked
2 oz cooked ham
2 tbsp + 1 tsp unsalted butter
2 tbsp creme fraiche
1 tbsp Port
1 sprig sorrel or a few pieces of arugula or three spinach leaves
handful chopped fresh parsley
2 tbsp Gruyere cheese grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

 Preheat oven to 300º.
Peel the eggs. Carefully cut in half lengthwise and remove the yolks without injuring the white casing.
Clean and dry the mushrooms, remove the stems and finely chop the caps. Dice the chicken, ham. sorrel (or substitute) and parsley.

Melt the butter in a medium heavy gauge casserole pot (think Le Creuset type) and brown the mushrooms over med heat. Stir in the meat and herb mix and continue to sauté 3 minutes. Season with salt and black pepper. Remove from heat. Stir in the Port and creme fraiche. Add the egg yolks and blend everything carefully.  Fill the egg whites generously with this stuffing and top each with a sprinkle of Gruyere cheese. Arrange them on a platter that's ovenproof and slip them into the oven 4-5 minutes to warm them and melt the cheese.  Serve immediately while warm. (I say they would look terrific on a bed of freshly sauteed greens.

Poached Peaches

These are called Peaches a La Cardinal and there's no liquor so the kids can enjoy them.
Serves 6

6 ripe but firm peaches that look pretty
1 c sugar
1/2 vanilla bean or 1 tsp vanilla extract
1 lemon, juice only (I personally prefer lime)
1/2c currant jelly

slivered almonds toasted or toasted pecans for garnish

Fill a large pot with enough water to cover the peaches and bring the water to a boil. Drop the peaches in 30 seconds to blanche. Carefully remove them and run them under cold water immediately. This should allow you to easily slip off the skins. Handling carefully, place them in a large glass bowl or compote dish.

In a saucepan/pot, combine the sugar, lemon juice and vanilla with 1/2 liter of water. Bring to a boil and stir only with a wooden spoon to dissolve the sugar. Cook until you get syrup. Take out 1/2 cup of the syrup. Plunge the peaches into the remaining syrup and cook over low heat 8-10 minutes to soften the peaches. Remove from heat, carefully get the contents of the pot back in the glass bowl/compote dish and cool down. Cover tightly with cling wrap and put in the fridge for 1/2 hour.

While they cool, in a small saucepan, over low flame, heat the currant jelly with the reserved 1/2 c syrup to get something you can pour.  Remove the peaches from the fridge 10 minutes before serving. When ready to serve pour the currant jelly mix over each one evenly and garnish with the nuts.

Soup for all Seasons

This soup is a vegetable medley pureed and this is the time of year when you can conceivably get all the vegetables so I include it here. There is an accompanying note that says not to worry if some are out of season. Just carry on with what you have. Use fresh veggies. You will notice there are no spices. If you don't have sorrel, add a squirt of lemon juice for the sourness sorrel provides. The actual soup color is green, not yellow as the bad photo suggests.

serves 6
1/3 lb young carrots
1/4 lb turnips
1 yellow onion
4 small leeks, white part only
5 cabbage leaves
1/2 lb green beans, smaller is better
1/3 lb shelled fresh peas
6 lg spinach leaves
6 lettuce leaves
small amount of sorrel
2 tbsp unsalted butter
handful fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper

Wash and dry all the vegetables. Peel the carrots,  turnips and onion and remove the green parts of the leeks. Cut the carrots, turnips, onion, leek and cabbage leaves in thin strips. In a heavy gauge casserole, melt the butter over low heat. Add the carrots, turnips, leek, onion and cabbage and sauté to soften. Season with salt and pepper. Add 2 quarts water. Bring to a boil, cover the casserole and reduce heat to low. Cook 1 hr. Add the peas, green beans, spinach leaves, lettuce and sorrel. Add a pinch of salt. Continue cooking another 20 minutes. Pour the contents of the casserole into a blender or processor and purée into a thick well blended soup. Put in back in the casserole to reheat a minute. Serve in individual bowls garnished with fresh parsley. A garlic crouton wouldn't hurt.

Simple Summer Party Food

The universe set our daily temperature to broil and I was heading to a community center birthday party where everyone was asked to bring something to the table. So I did a little rehearsing for an island lawn wedding reception next week: easy, elegant, exciting.  Zucchini is one of the most ubiquitous and cheapest veggies in farmers' markets right now so why not jazz it up?

Greek Zucchini Fritters to serve with tsatsiki or minted yogurt

You don't have to stand over a hot pan frying fritters. The secret is to bake them on large oil covered trays in the oven. You get the same end effect plus quick clean up if you use parchment paper on the trays. So here's my oven baked version of Greek zucchini fritters: Kolokithokeftedes. Among all the food on the tables, these were the first to disappear totally. What's so terrific is these can be served hot or at room temp.

makes about 60 medium (2") sized and about 80 mini ($.25 size) fritters.

2 1/2 lbs zucchini, grated (you can buy the big baseball bat ones for this)
2 sm red onions, grated or chopped in a processor*
3 tbsp fresh mint, finely chopped*
10 oz. feta cheese, crumbled is best but you can cut up a block*
1 tbsp lemon zest*
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste*
2 tsp dried oregano*
1/3 c cooked cannellini (white) beans*
salt to your taste *
2 c fine breadcrumbs
2 tbsp good quality olive oil plus 1/2c for baking
2 tbsp fresh flat leaf parsley, finely chopped*
2 eggs

*you can combine all this in a food processor and smoosh it all at once: easiest way.
                                                         Preheat oven to 425º.   

Put the grated zucchini in a colander with a pinch of salt and let it drain for 30 minutes.
Squeeze the zucchini or use a potato masher to get out all the water you can.
In a large bowl blend the grated zucchini with all the chopped ingredients * above. Stir in 2 tbsp olive oil and 1 c breadcrumbs. Add the eggs and 1 c breadcrumbs and blend everything into what feels like a tight paste.  Use more white beans or breadcrumbs if the mixture feels too watery.

Line 3 large sheet pans with parchment and liberally oil the parchment: the oil is what will cause the baking fritters to "fry." Using a round teaspoon or similar, scoop out batter, roll into a ball to tighten and then flatten into a pancake. Mini should be the size of a quarter; otherwise 2" at most so they can be easily picked up without utensils. You don't have to leave much space between the fritters as you place them on the oiled baking sheet. As soon as one sheet is full, put it in the oven and continue until all the mixture is gone.

Bake at 425º about 20 minutes until you see the dark brown or black on the bottom edges indicating crispness. remove tray from oven and flip the fritters over. continue to bake another 10 minutes or until they are crisp on both sides.  Remove from the oven. Let the fritters cool 5-10 minutes. With a spatula move them to your serving plate.  Serve with tsatsiki or minted thick (i.e. Greek) yogurt.





Apricots Stuffed with Mascarpone

I made this up in a pinch when people stopped in for drinks and I didn't have any nibbles to put out. I did have a few apricots hanging around waiting to be a tart and I had some mascarpone left from making a caviar pie and bingo! With some crushed salted almonds on top, they were a huge hit.  So I made them again, only this time for the large crowd, I cut the apricots in quarters instead of the original better looking halves.

1 apricot for every 2 people for small party or 1 for every 4 people larger group
1 tbsp rosewater
6-8 roasted salted almonds, crushed or chopper processed to little bits
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
  2-4 oz  mascarpone, depending on how many apricots you use (containers are usually 8 oz.)

Wash and dry the apricots and cut them in half lengthwise. Remove the pits. Put them in a large shallow bowl and sprinkle the rosewater over them. Let them sit 10 minutes to absorb it. Meanwhile take the mascarpone from the fridge to soften it.

Turn the apricots cut side up--the pit indent should be on top. Using a small icing spatula fill the indent and cover the top entirely with mascarpone. If you are serving them in halves, arrange these on your serving platter.  If you need to cut each half, do it after you've put on the mascarpone and arrange the quarters on your serving platter.  When every apricot has been finished, sprinkle on the nutmeg and then the crushed nuts.  Refrigerate if you are not serving within the hour.


Hummus with Ginger, Cinnamon and Chili
This was recently posted by Yotam Ottolenghi: hummus with Indian spices for a new taste sensation that adds pizzazz to what's become ho-hum trite.

2 14 oz cans cooked chickpeas, rinsed and drained
2" fresh ginger, peeled and grated
2 tbsp good quality olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled
3 tbsp fresh lemon juice
6 thin strips lemon peel
Sea salt

1/4 c olive oil
1 red chili, deseeded and sliced as thin as possible
1 lg garlic clove, peeled and sliced very thin longwise
1" fresh ginger, peeled and thinly sliced longwise
1 cinnamon stick
2 tbsp cilantro leaves, finely chopped

In a food processor, combine the chickpeas, 2" ginger, olive oil, 1 garlic clove, 2 tbsp lemon juice, the peel, salt to your taste and 1 tbsp water. Whiz 2 minutes into a smooth paste, stopping twice to scrape down the sides.  

Heat the 1/4 c olive oil in a med sauté pan over med heat. Over med/low heat sauté the chili, garlic, ginger and cinnamon stick 5 minutes, stirring occasionally. Continue until the garlic is light brown. Using a slotted spoon remove these solids from the oil and sprinkle with salt. Save the oil.

Arrange the hummus on a large plate. With the back of a wooden spoon create a large well into the center. Spoon the hot oil into the well and drizzle the remaining tbsp lemon juice into it. Top the hummus with the fried cinnamon, ginger et al. Then top everything with the chopped fresh cilantro leaves. Serve with pita or flatbread. For those panicked about gluten, serve with cucumber disks cut on the diagonal so they're oval.


And finally, if you are out of time and out of ideas but need something spiffy in a flash, get yourself a quart of fresh farm strawberries--do not buy supermarket strawberries as they are grown in poison gas. Get yourself some creme fraiche. Wash, dry and hull the berries. Put the creme fraiche in a shallow dipping bowl and put the bowl in the middle of a basket or serving platter. Pile the strawberries around it.  Garnish with fresh mint leaves. You'll be the hit of the day.

Simple Summer with Meatballs

It's hot. It's sticky. Nobody wants fireworks in the kitchen. Summer 's here and the cooking is easy.
Vegetables and fruits galore to choose from. Picnics, potlucks and parties happening. Pick right at the farmers' market and you can cobble together just about anything on short notice.

For instance, a small head of cauliflower. Coat the top with olive oil and a pinch of sea salt, then roast it at 425º until it's lightly brown and crisp, maybe 20 minutes. While that's happening make up some cilantro pesto. Put in a food processor or chopper: 1/2 c cilantro leaves, 1 clove garlic, a good amount of freshly ground black pepper, 2 scallions chopped, sea salt, 6 pine nuts and 1 tbsp ground parmesan or asiago cheese. Whiz it to smithereens, then keep whizzing as you add enough good quality olive oil to make a sauce.  Now: you can pour this over the cauliflower or you can break the florets off individually and serve them beside a bowl of sauce for dipping and you can do either one hot or cold.

Baby bite sized potatoes are available in colors. Think 3-4 per person. Olive oil a baking sheet and put the amount you need on it. Sprinkle the tops with more olive oil and pinches of sea salt. Add a pinch or two of dried rosemary and roast the potatoes at 450º 10-12 minutes. The outside should be very crunchy and the inside meltingly soft. If you need an extra minute to achieve that take it.  Serve warm with more sea salt and some fresh rosemary or at room temperature surrounded by your favorite dips: e.g pesto, French onion, salsa verde, skordalia.
  



Greek meatballs with mint and cinnamon served room temperature are always a treat. You can use beef

or lamb but beef probably works better for them.
makes 20 golf ball sized meatballs

1 lb very lean ground beef or lamb
1/4 c finely chopped fresh mint leaves (spearmint may be too strong)
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp ground cinnamon
1 sm red onion, minced
lots of freshly ground black pepper
sea salt to your taste
1/4 c olive oil plus 2 tbsp

Preheat oven to 350º.
Combine everything but 2 tbsp olive oil in a bowl and using your hand blend everything. If the mixture feels loose, add a few breadcrumbs. Make golf ball sized meatballs or smaller and place them as you go on a baking dish oiled with the 2 remaining tbsp olive oil.  Bake at 350º until browned all over, 30 minutes. Cool. Serve at room temperature on a bed of mint or oregano leaves.

Spaghetti with Lemon and Basil

I think of this as the summer version of my lazy cook favorite: cacio e pepe, spaghetti with pepper and cheese. It's about as easy as cooking gets and as tasty. It's what to make when you can't think what to make and don't want to run to the market.
Serves 3-4

1/2+ lb bucatini or spaghetti
3 lg lemons
2/3 c good quality olive oil
1 c freshly grated parmesan cheese
1/2 c fresh basil leaves, finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste.

Boil the spaghetti in heavily salted water until it's just past al dente.
While it cooks, juice the lemons and get 1 tbsp zest.  In a medium bowl whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil.  Drain the spaghetti in a colander. Pour the lemon/oil mixture into the hot pot it cooked in and with a wooden spoon or spatula, stir in the cheese. It should start to dissolve making a creamy sauce. Season with salt and pepper to your taste. Stir in the warm spaghetti and shake the pot so every strand is coated. Stir in the lemon zest and chopped basil and serve immediately.

And finally an old favorite from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking,

Chard Torte

Serves 6-8

¼ cup extra virgin olive oil

1½ lbs Swiss chard (you can mix red and green, for you need two bunches)

¼ tsp salt

1/8 tsp freshly ground or cracked black pepper

1/4 tsp red pepper flakes

1 jumbo egg (or two small eggs)

1 cup grated Pecorino, Parmigiano or Asiago or Pecorino cheese

¼ cup unbleached flour

2 tbsp balsamic or Jerez vinegar

1/8 tsp nutmeg

Preheat oven to 400º.  Oil an 8” spring form pan or quiche dish.

 Wash the chard and trim away all the thick stems, even up the back of the leaves.  Chop the leaves into small ½” pieces.

 Heat the olive oil in a large sauté pan over medium high heat. Add the chard, reduce heat to medium, and sauté, stirring until the chard has wilted.  Add salt, pepper and red pepper flakes. Remove from heat.

In a medium bowl, whisk the egg. Blend in the cheese and flour. Stir in vinegar and nutmeg.

 Combine the cheese mixture with the greens, carefully blending so everything is evenly distributed. Spoon everything into the oiled pan or dish, spreading it evenly, leveling the top.

 Bake 10 minutes at 400º until it is firm. (You might want to put a cookie sheet underneath to catch leaks.) Remove from the oven and cool two minutes before undoing the springform ring. 

 To serve, cut into wedges and garnish with black olives.