Putting the spring in Spring

Those exuberant spring vegetables bursting through the ground right now are the spring tonic we need to rev our bodies out of winter mode. All that energy that gets these plants through the thaw into the sunlight   goes into us when we eat them. Fiddleheads and asparagus--the ferns, ramps--the wild leek, nettles, green garlic--the first new shoots off last year's bulb, green onions aka scallions, pea shoots, dandelion leaves, and in warmer climates fresh shelling or English peas. Notice these are all green, spring green.

There's a simple scallion pancake recipe in my book How to Fix a Leek... but I just discovered a twist on it: a cooked pancake was refried to be browned on one side, then rolled up like a tortilla around a wad of barbecued beef. 

Pea shoots are yummy simply sautéed in olive oil that's been flavored with three or four garlic cloves removed before serving, and sprinkled either with soy sauce or sea salt. Their freshness will shine through. But do be careful. Delicate shoots can go straight into the pan; if the stems are, say, as thick as parsley stems, you'll have to pull the leaves off and discard them or your shoots will be tough and chewy.

The simplest fastest way to enjoy asparagus is to cut off the tougher bottom end of each stalk, and then spread them out on aluminum foil lining a baking tray: if it's only one bunch you might fit it all on the toaster oven baking tray, which I do. Season with salt and a good spritz of olive oil (the oil is what will conduct the heat but you don't want to drown the asparagus in it).  Roast at 450º about 10 minutes, until the stalks are soft and starting to brown. (Timing depends totally on how thick the stalks are.) That's it. You can serve them hot just like that or later on at room temperature, as a side dish, cocktail fare or part of a salad plate. Cut any leftover stalks into bite sized pieces, sauté them in olive oil with a minced clove or two of garlic, perhaps optionally scraps of chorizo or pepperoni and/or a few cleaned, ramps, a tbsp of bread crumbs, season with sea salt and pepper and toss over pasta. Garnish with grated parmesan cheese and a wedge of lemon.

Next post will have a Spanish asparagus/egg dish, a nettle curry and a salad of roasted soybeans with green garlic.  But for now, for the days and weeks ahead, here's a spring green "hummus" spread or dip for 4-6 people.

FRESH PEA "HUMMUS"

2 cups shelled peas (more or less 1 lb shelled peas)

1 bunch fresh green onions (8), roots off and stalks trimmed (do not remove all the stalk)

1 clove garlic, minced

3 tbsp olive oil 

1/3 c chopped fresh flat leaf parsley

1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves, another 2 tbsp for garnishing

Freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Sea Salt to your taste

4 oz creamy soft unflavored goat cheese

1/2 cup cooked cannellini beans, drained

pinch of nutmeg

Chop the scallions coarsely.

In a medium/large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium flame. Add scallions and garlic and sauté 1 minute or until scallions start to soften. Be careful not to burn garlic. Lower heat if necessary. Add the shelled peas and shake the pan. If it's too dry and they want to stick add another tbsp olive oil. Add 1/2 cup water and cook over medium heat 3-4 minutes until peas start to soften. Add the parsley and cook another minute.  The peas should be soft but not soggy or losing color. Drain off any excess water and pour the contents of the pan into a food processor. (if you have an immersion blender you can keep the peas in the pot, okay). Add the mint, salt, pepper, goat cheese and beans. Quickly puree into a thick paste. If it's too thick, add a tbsp or two of olive oil. Sprinkle on a pinch of nutmeg.

That's it.  You can serve this with or on sliced cucumbers--a very cooling dish. You can spread more creamy goat cheese on a slice of baguette and top it with a smear of the pea hummus and a sprinkling of chopped mint leaves. You can use this to fill radicchio leaves--the lower half or smear it on a lavash, top with mascarpone and salmon roe, then roll up the lavash into a large cigar. Now cut it into serving size pieces. In a pinch you can just stick a spoon in and enjoy all the freshness of spring.