Tuesday, February 4, 2020

Fighting the "Februaries"

Years ago, New York writers named this dark blues-inducing stretch of winter the Februaries. The travel marketeer's dream phrase was to sell escape air tickets to the sunny Caribbean.  But the Februaries are a trough we probably want to escape culinarily as well. Food can feel blah now that the holidays are over, Spring greens haven't arrived and we're saving chocolate for our Valentine.

I say put glamour on your plate. Light the room with bright, flavorful dishes that spice the soul. Nothing complicated. Nothing with many pots. Somethings long slow cooked to heat up and perfume the house. Here are a few ideas, most of them meaty because winter is the time our metabolism can use the slow burning fat it provides to keep us warm.     

Beef tagine with apples  
Count on Moroccans to cleverly mix fruits and meat, to masterfully blend in spices and stew up something robust, delicious and nourishing. Let this bring some Sahara sunshine to your table. 
    You can serve this with the traditional couscous or freekah or perhaps quinoa. Add a simple lettuce salad and you have a very colorful table.                  
serves 6
2 1/4 lbs  chuck steak
3 tbsp vegetable oil (can be olive)
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1 lg onion, sliced into thin disks
lg pinch saffron threads, pulverized if you can
1/2 tsp ground ginger
1 thin cinnamon stick
4 sprigs fresh cilantro
1 1/2 tsp salt
freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1 c raisins (either color)
1/4 c honey, best quality please
3 Granny Smith apples
1 tbsp + 1 tsp sesame seeds, toasted
 
Remove any excess fat from the beef and cut it into 1" cubes.
Half  and core the apples.  Cut them into thick wedges.

In a large heavy gauge lidded pot (casserole), heat half the oil and half the butter until the butter melts. Add the meat and over high heat, quickly brown it on all sides.  With a slotted spoon remove it to a dish.

Reduce heat to medium. Add the onion and sauté to soften,3-5 minutes. Add the saffron, ginger, cinnamon stick and stir. Add 1 1/2 c water, salt and black pepper. Stir in the meat and the cilantro sprigs.    Cover the pot, reduce heat to simmer  and cook 90 minutes. (You don't have to stand watch.)  Add the raisins and 4 tsp honey. Cover the pot again and simmer 30 minutes or until the meat is very tender. 

During the last 15 minute of the tagine cooking, in a medium frying pan, heat the remaining oil and butter til the butter melts. Add the apples and sauté 10 minutes, turning often. Drizzle with the remaining honey and cook another 5 minutes so they get glazed and soft.   

Arrange the meat with its sauce in a serving dish (with sides), then top with the glazed apples and sprinkle everything with the toasted sesame seeds.
   
Spicy chorizo corn cake
This is an old favorite brunch and buffet recipe that can be a light supper or potluck prize. Its bright yellow is welcoming.
serves 6-8

2 Poblano peppers, roasted and seeded
1 lb chorizo, finely chopped
Olive oil as necessary
1 lg yellow onion,  diced
2 garlic cloves, minced 
1 jalapeno pepper, seeded and minced
3 tbsp unsalted butter, softened
3 extra lg eggs,
2 tsp honey
1 c sour cream
1 1/2 c corn kernels (canned drained or frozen)
1 tsp chipotle chili powder
1 1/4 c fine cornmeal
1/2 c unbleached flour
1 tsp baking soda
1 tsp baking powder
1 tsp salt
1 c milk
 dash Tabasco or other hot sauce 
1/2 lb Monterey Jack cheese, grated

In a lg heavy skillet over medium heat, brown the chorizo to release its fat, about 8 minutes. With a slotted spoon remove the meat to paper towels to drain. Pour off all but 2 tbsp of the fat. If you don't have that much add olive oil to the pan. Add the onion and sauté to soften, 2 minutes, then add garlic and cook another minute.  Stir in the minced jalapeno pepper and cook 7-8 minutes until everything is soft.

Heat oven to 350º.  Generously butter a  2 1/2 quart round casserole or baking dish 2" deep. 

In a large bowl beat the soft butter with the eggs to a smooth mix . Beat in the honey, sour cream, poblano peppers, onion mix, corn kernels and chili powder.  In another bowl sift or sieve together the corn meal, flour, baking soda, baking powder and salt. Blend into the wet ingredients alternating three times with the milk to get smooth batter. Season with the Tabasco and stir in the cheese.  

Spoon 2 1/2 c of the batter over the bottom of the baking dish.  Sprinkle 1/2 the chorizo on top. Add another 2- 21/2 c batter and smooth it level.   Top with the remaining chorizo.  Spoon the remaining batter for a top layer that covers the chorizo.     

Bake 45-50 minutes until a cake tester comes out clean. Let sit 10 minutes before serving.                                                                     
 
Ohne khao soi (Burmese chicken noodle soup)

The surprising blend of cooling coconut milk with hot peppers always beguiles me. I love this soup. I'm not sure anyone's going to serve it along side green papaya salad, a Burmese/Thai speciality, but certainly some sliced mango with lime will accompany it just fine. 
  Serves 6 people as a main course.  



6 boneless breasts of chicken, cut into large bite sized pieces

2 tbsp corn, canola or sunflower oil

1½ tbsp. red curry paste

3 cups coconut milk

1 tbsp. garam masala  or curry powder                                  

½ tbsp turmeric

1 star anise or ½ tsp powder

1 cinnamon stick

4 cloves

1tsp ground cardamom or 3 crushed pods

2 cups chicken stock

½  tsp brown or raw sugar

¼ c fish sauce

About 6-7 (loosely packed) cups of boiled flat Chinese Bah-mi egg noodle or fettucini noodles (about 11/4 lbs)
1 tsp lime juice

Thinly sliced shallots (garnish), fried.

To garnish: 6 slivers of fresh lime, chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Optional:  1 cup pickled Chinese cabbage



Soak noodles to remove excess starch and drain.  Cook noodles as per directions on package and set aside. Fry the garlic in a little extra oil until transparent.

   In a heavy casserole or soup pot, heat oil and add the red curry paste, curry powder and turmeric.  Cook stirring vigorously until the curry paste is fragrant—1-2 minutes. Be careful not to burn the paste.

   Add 1 cup of coconut milk. Over med/high heat, let it come to a boil and bubble for a few minutes, stirring well, until the red oil separates from the coconut milk. Add another cup of coconut milk and wait until the oil separates.

   Add garlic, chicken pieces, star anise, cinnamon, cloves and cardamom with chicken stock and the rest of the coconut milk. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, add fish sauce and simmer.

   Cover the pot and simmer until the chicken is done, 4- 5 minutes. Check seasonings; you might need to add more fish sauce. The flavor should be a bit salty and spicy with a sweet aftertaste. It should be a bit saltier than what you would like the final dish to taste. Stir in lime juice and remove from heat.

    Divide noodles between deep soup bowls. Pour the coconut chicken over the noodles. Garnish with fried shallots, cilantro leaves and a lime wedge. Optionally pickled cabbage.  

Pozole with chickpeas

This is a variation on the traditional Mexican pork and hominy stew and rightfully called pozolillo, little pozole, because it's made with chickpeas instead of hominy.

serves 6-8


2 lbs pork stew meat, cut into bite-size pieces

1 medium white onion, quartered

2 garlic cloves minced

6-8 sprigs fresh cilantro

3½ qts water (not all together) 

1 tsp salt

3 dried ancho chiles, stems and seeds removed

2 dried guajillo chiles, stems and seeds removed

3 tbsp masa harina

2 tsp dried oregano

1 heaping tsp ground cumin

2 15-oz cans chickpeas,  drained and rinsed

Garnishes

shredded cabbage

chopped red onion

Lime wedges



Put the pork in a Dutch oven or 4-quart soup pot with the onion, minced garlic, and fresh cilantro. Add 12 cups (3 quarts) of water and salt. Cover and over high heat, bring to a boil. Reduce heat to low and simmer about 90 minutes or until the pork is falling apart tender.



While the pork cooks, combine the dried ancho and guajillo chiles with the 2 remaining cups of water in a medium saucepan and over high heat, bring to a boil. Cover the pot and remove it from heat, letting it cool until the chilies have completely softened. In a blender, combine the chilies and cooking water with the masa harina, oregano and cumin.  Puree.



Add this puree and the chickpeas to the pork stew. Taste for salt and add more if needed. Cover the pot and simmer the pozole 20 to 25 minutes.



To serve, ladle into bowls. Garnish with shredded cabbage, chopped red onion, and the juice of a lime wedge. Serve with tostada shells and your favorite bottled hot sauce.
 
Black Bean Torta, layers of colors and flavors
This one's for vegetarians, a colorful south of the border presentation as "cake." Serve it with plantains for a hearty heartwarming meal: brunch. lunch or dinner.
serves 8

3 c cooked (can be canned) black beans   
1/2 c bean cooking liquid
1 tbsp olive oil
1 1/2 c red onion, diced finely
2  garlic cloves, minced
2 red bell peppers, cut into thin strips
2 chayote squash, peeled
1 cup corn kernels (canned or frozen or fresh)
2 tsp roasted ground cumin (use regular if you don't have this)
1 tsp salt
2 tsp chili powder
6  9" tortillas (you may need to use flour ones to get this size. And  two day old ones work best) 
4 Anaheim chilies, char roasted, peeled and seeded 
1 1/4 c fresh tomato salsa (store bought is fine)
3 c grated cheese (blend Monterey Jack with queso fresco)

Oil a 9" springform pan. Heat oven to 375º.
Halve the chayotes and remove the seed. Slice into thin wedges.
Slice the roasted Anaheim chilies into thin strips
 Puree the black beans with the liquid into a smooth paste.

 In a large sauté pan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and sauté 3 minutes to soften.   Stir in the garlic, red peppers, chayote and corn. Sauté 5 minutes. Add cumin, salt and chili powder. Blend and remove from heat.

 Place 1 tortilla on the bottom of the springform pan.  Cover it with a generous layer of pureed black beans. Top with a layer of the sauteed vegetables. Top with a few strips of the Anaheim chili, then 1/4 c salsa followed by 1/2 c cheese. Put another tortilla on top of this, pressing gently to flatten and level.  Cover with a layer of pureed black beans, then a layer of vegetables, strips of Anaheim chili  and so on. Repeat the layering. Cover the last/top tortilla with any remaining salsa and cheese.  (You can stop here and bake later.)

Place the springform pan on a baking sheet and bake at 375º 45 minutes. Let it cool 10 minutes. Run a thin knife or baker's spatula around the edges and remove the sides of the springform. Place the torta (bottom of springform still under it) on a serving platter and surround with avocado slices.         

                                         


 
   


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