Monday, May 13, 2019

Rhubarb: pretty in pink

Like the butt of Rodney Dangerfield jokes, rhubarb doesn't get respect. That's a shame because it's versatile, nourishing and pretty pink. Plus it's so filled with water it's almost no-cal. I ignored it for decades but once I actually ate some, I started cooking it every which way and loving the lot. There really is nothing like it.

Let's start with the fact that it's actually a vegetable but it comes off like fruit in pies, crisps and cakes or stewed. It's native to Mongolia  It was probably the first staple of Chinese medicine because while the pink stems morph into delicacies, the leaves are poisonous. A little bite of them goes a long way as potent purgative. Actually the safe stems are thought to purge toxins from our body. The roots are also used as medicine. It was first brought to the US to be planted in freezing Maine which proved it's a cinch to grow.

It's rhubarb's long reddish pink stalks we see in markets once the ground thaws and sun comes out. Like asparagus which also has the energy to break through thawing ground, rhubarb is a tonic for our body. Loaded as it is with calcium and potassium, its praises pile up on the internet where it's now touted as a superfood.  You can feel virtuous eating it. So here are a few delicious and deliciously easy ways to try it.

Pork Chops with Rhubarb and Fennel
Rhubarb puts sweet tang in pan-fried pork and makes it pretty to boot. I used a pork loin chop for maximum effect. I'm guessing if you had a large pork tenderloin you could follow this recipe roasting it. This is one very yummy Spring dinner served perhaps with baked or roasted potatoes and a fennel salad. You could also do this with a thick slab of fresh salmon.
serves 4

Serves 4
4 x 4-6 oz 1” thick pork loin chops
2 tsp fennel seed
w tsp coriander seed
1 tsp black peppercorns
1 tsp sea salt
4 tbsp butter
1 tbsp sunflower or corn oil
finely grated zest and juice 1 orange,
½  c marsala wine
1 lb rhubarb (about 3 lg stalks), trimmed and cut horizontally into 1 1/4” thick slices
2 tbsp honey or pure maple syrup

Cut excess fat of the long end of each pork chop.
Slit each at even intervals on one side.
Crush the fennel, coriander seeds, peppercorns and salt until smashed, but not ground to a powder. Rub into the pork slits.
 In a medium/large heavy gauge skillet or frying pan, melt 2 tbsp butter with oil over a medium heat. Put pork chops fat side down and brown 2-3 minutes.
Flip chops to the scored side and cook 2 minutes, then flip to the other side and do the same. Add the remaining butter and orange zest to the pan, baste the chops, and turn them over again.
Pour the marsala into the pan and let bubble for a few seconds. Add the orange juice and bring to a simmer. Arrange the rhubarb around the pork and drizzle it  with honey/maple syrup. On low heat, cook 5 minutes or until pork is no longer pink inside and rhubarb is soft but still holding its shape.
Using a slotted spatula, remove pork and rhubarb from the pan and arrange on warmed dinner plates. Increase the heat under the pan and simmer the sauce until thickened and slightly syrupy. Pour over the pork and serve.

Rhubarb Slaw
It's rare to find rhubarb served raw but don't be afraid to dig into this tasty and colorful Spring salad. 

Serves 4

Juice of 2 lemons
2 tsp orange juice
2 tsp granulated sugar
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed so the tough outer stalks are removed
4 stalks of rhubarb
4 large radishes, washed

In a medium bowl, mix the lemon juice with the orange juice, sugar, salt and pepper to your taste. Trim the fennel down to its small innards minus the core. Reserve its fronds.
Using a mandolin, cheese slicer or julienne gadget, slice the rhubarb, radishes and fennel into the thinnest strips you can manage and cut these in pieces. Toss them in the seasoned lemon juice to pickle them slightly.
When ready to serve, add the fennel fronds as garnish.

Quick Rhubarb Chutney for grilled fish
This is the high speed version of versatile rhubarb chutney/confit/sauce.  It's also good on grilled chicken.


1 lb rhubarb, woody base trimmed off
¾ cup light brown sugar
½ cup red wine or raspberry vinegar
1/2 tsp cinnamon
½ cup balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp dried currants
1” piece fresh ginger root, peeled and minced

Dice rhubarb into small pieces. In a heavy non-aluminum pot, combine vinegars with sugar and boil on medium heat until the bubbles are thick and dark, 12-15 minutes. Lower heat, stir in ginger, rhubarb, currants and cinnamon. Cook 5 minutes. Pour into a glass jar or ceramic bowl and refrigerate at least 3 hours. Serve at room temperature.


Rhubarb Compote with Raisins and Apricots
Among all the easy recipes of this post, this is tops. It's a ten minute no brainer with long lasting uses. You can just eat it as is for a breakfast fruit or put it on hot oatmeal or over thick yogurt. You could spoon it drained over BBQ chicken or pulled pork or serve it as a side dish. You can present it as a very healthy dessert topped with whipped cream and abetted with ginger cookies.  You could even spoon it on baked apples.
serves 4-5

5 thin stalks rhubarb or 3 fat ones
4-5 dried apricots
1/4 c white raisins
1 seedless clementine or mandarin, peeled and segmented
3 whole cloves 
1/2" piece fresh ginger, peeled, grated
1 tbsp good quality honey
pinch of ground nutmeg
Water

Clean the rhubarb and slice it into 1" pieces. 
Combine everything in a medium lidded pot with enough water to cover it all. Start over medium heat and when the pot is boiling, cover and reduce heat to simmer. Cook 10 minutes.

Rhubarb Tart
Another high speed recipe. You can also make a rhubarb crisp, rhubarb upside down cake or rhubarb bread pudding. I have all the recipes. 
serves 6-8 
 
2 lbs rhubarb (that’s about 7 large stalks)
1 c turbinado or raw sugar or ½ c granulated and ½ c light brown sugar
1 tsp orange juice
1 tbsp Grand Marnier or other orange liquer
1 baked tart shell

Clean the rhubarb. If the stalks are very thick, cut them in half lengthwise. Cut the stalks into 1” pieces. Put them in a non-aluminum pot with the sugar and orange juice. Cover the pot. Over medium heat cook 10 minutes or until rhubarb is soft. Uncover, turn heat up and stirring constantly boil into jamlike thickness.  Stir in the Grand Marnier.  Pour into the baked tart shell. Cool. Top with whipped cream and candied or fresh grated ginger.


Date Rhubarb Chutney for Cheese
And finally this is how I save and savor rhubarb for winter. I am known to go overboard stocking up and giving away at holiday time. This chutney is fabulous with hard cheeses and flabbergasting over spicy chicken thighs. It's also great with BBQ ribs and a rice/vegetable plate. You will need canning jars. I use the small 4 oz. ones.
 
2” fresh root ginger, grated
1¼ c red wine vinegar
2 lg Granny Smith apples, peeled and finely chopped
½ lb pitted dates, chopped
1 c dried cranberries or dark raisins
1 tsp vanilla extract
½ tsp ground star anise or 2 whole star anise
1 1/2 c turbinado or muscovado or raw sugar
 2 lbs rhubarb (about 7 stalks), sliced into small chunks
1 lg or 2 med red onions, diced

Put the onions in a large pan with the ginger and vinegar. Bring to the boil, then simmer for 10 mins. Add the rest of the ingredients, except the rhubarb, plus 2 tsp salt to the pan and bring to the boil, stirring. Simmer, uncovered, for about 10 mins until the apples are tender.

Stir in the rhubarb and cook, uncovered, until the chutney is thick and jammy, about 15-20 mins. Leave the chutney to sit for about 10-15 mins, then spoon into warm, clean jars, and seal. Label the jars when cool. Keep for at least a month before eating.



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