Maple Syrup rising

It's that time of year when sap rises in the maple trees, collection buckets get nailed on and the sap is boiled for days to get it down to that amber colored syrup you get in glass jars and plastic jugs. Northern New England and Canada's abutting Quebec province produce almost all the pure product and that's what you want. Beware pure syrup sold in tins because tin bruises the flavor. Beware the supermarket stuff that's mostly corn syrup with a tad of maple thrown in.

Maple syrup is sold with differing names because it's graded by its translucence. Grade A is lighter than Grade B not only in color but flavor. Sub category Amber is lighter than Medium Amber or Dark. Grade A Amber is sometimes called “fancy.” It's the easiest to find in stores. Some people flat out prefer the darker, heavier, more thickly flavored syrup that's easiest found at sugar shacks where it's brewed in late March and April. 

As of 2015, commercial naming was forcibly changed. All pure maple syrup is presumed Grade A. From there what used to be Light Amber is now Golden Color and Delicate Taste. What used to be Medium Amber is now Amber Color and Rich Taste. What was Dark Amber and Extra Dark Amber--the more robust syrup--is now Dark Color and Robust Taste.

An unopened container and an opened one stored in the refrigerator will both last a year until the next batch is boiled down. If mold appears, you can skim it off and boil remaining the syrup a few minutes. Pour this into a sterilized canning jar, tighten the lid and store it in the refrigerator again. Maple syrup tastes best served at room temperature or slightly warmed.

This tree sap is good for you! It has hard to come by minerals manganese and zinc. It has more calcium than honey. And I have heard and operated on the news that it's a no worries sweetener for diabetics.

How sweet is this: The aboriginal Indians who discovered this treat brightened winter for their kids by pouring freshly boiled syrup over the stored popped corn, and that's the origin of Crackerjack. So you can make your own, pure and simple. Of course you can slather it on pancakes, corn fritters and waffles. You can stir it into oatmeal and yogurt. It helps barbeque sauce get a glaze and can be brushed on a fresh from the oven roasted chicken or turkey to make it shine. Many people like to glaze baked salmon with maple syrup. You can fill the cavity of a winter squash with maple syrup, melted butter, sea salt, ground cinnamon and nutmeg before you bake it. You can pour it over fresh fruit when making a pie or crisp if you want to avoid white sugar. You can also make vegan, sugar free cake icing by grinding up cashew nuts until they release their oils to become a paste and then thinning that paste until its a spread with maple syrup. I like to pour it on when I stew up that other spring marvel, rhubarb, whose tartness needs creative sweetening.

Tangy parsnips, which are traditionally overwintered and harvested in spring just as the sap is being boiled down, happen to be terrific partners for maple syrup. 

Shaker Parsnips with Maple Syrup

This is an old traditional New Hampshire Shaker community recipe from maple syruping time.

Serves 6-8

2 lbs parsnips

1 c maple syrup

2 tbsp unsalted butter, melted

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp ground cinnamon OR ground cumin (depending on your taste preference)

 Heat oven to 400º. LIghtly butter a baking pan.

Peel the parsnips and slice into 2" thick disks.  Put them on the baking pan, season with salt and pepper. Pour the maple syrup evenly over them, then pour the butter. Finally season with your chosen spice. Cover the pan tightly for foil and bake 30 minutes. Uncover and bake another 10-15 minutes until parsnips are tender. Garnish with a handful of chopped fresh parsley.

Peel and slice 2 lbs into thin disks, throw them in a baking dish with 1 cup of maple syrup and 2 tbsp butter, and put them in a 325º oven until tender--maybe 30 minutes.

And here are more seasonally appropriate ways to splurge this Spring:

Maple Syrup Muffins

makes 12

1¾ cup all-purpose flour

¼ cup milk

2½ tsp double-acting baking powder

¼ tsp almond extract

¼ tsp salt

½ stick (2 oz) unsalted butter, melted

1 large egg

¾ cup toasted pecan pieces

1 cup maple syrup

Preheat oven to 350º. Butter or line tins for 12 muffins.

In a small bowl whisk flour, baking powder and salt. In a mixer bowl, beat the egg, add milk and almond extract. On low speed gradually add the flour mix, alternating with maple syrup, scraping the bowl as you do. Add butter and beat briefly. Fold in pecans. Ladle the thin mixture into muffin tins. (If you want, you can sprinkle the tops with Kashi or sliced almonds.) Bake on a low oven rack for 15 minutes, then reverse the pan and bake on a higher one for 15 minutes, or until tops spring back when pressed. Immediately remove muffins from pan and serve warm. Be careful: they are delicate.

Fennel basted pork chops with rhubarb

for 2 2  6 oz 1” thick pork chops

1 tsp fennel seed 1 tsp coriander seed ½ tsp black peppercorns ½ tsp sea salt 2 tbsp butter 1 tbsp sunflower or corn oil finely grated zest and juice 1 orange,

¼ c marsala wine ½ lb rhubarb, trimmed and cut horizontally into 1 1/4” thick slices 1 tbsp pure maple syrup

Score the rind of each pork chop at even intervals. Smash the fennel, coriander seeds, peppercorns and salt to a coarse powder. Rub most of it into the pork slits, and hold the rest.

 In a medium/large heavy gauge skillet or frying pan, melt 1 tbsp butter and 1 tbsp oil over medium heat. Put pork chops scored fat side down and brown 2-3 minutes.

Flip chops and cook 2 minutes, then flip to the other side and do the same. Sprinkle the remaining spice mix on top now.

Add the remaining butter and orange zest to the pan, baste the chops, and turn them over.

Pour the marsala into the pan and let bubble for a few seconds. Add the orange juice and bring to a simmer. Arrange the rhubarb around the pork and drizzle it  with maple syrup. On low heat, cook 5 minutes or until pork is no longer pink inside and rhubarb is soft but still holding its shape. Turn the pork once without stirring. Using a slotted spatula, remove pork and rhubarb from the pan and arrange on two warmed dinner plates. Increase the heat under the pan and simmer the sauce until thickened and slightly syrupy. Pour over the pork and serve, perhaps with mashed celeriac and garlicky braised greens.

Shaker Maple Sweet Potato Souffle 

Another traditional recipe from the community with a little flavor add from me.

Serves 4-6

4 med sweet potatoes (not yams)

1/2 c maple syrup

2 tsp ground allspice

1/2 tsp ground cardamom

Sea salt and freshly ground pepper

6 egg whites 

Wash the potatoes and pierce them 2 or 3 times with a fork. Bake at 500º 45 minutes. Cool. Reduce oven to 400º. Butter a small baking pan.

Peel and put the potatoes in a food processor with the maple syrup, salt, pepper, and spices. Whiz into a smooth puree. In a separate large bowl, whip or beat the egg whites until stiff peaks form. Gently fold them into the sweet potato puree. Put the mixture evenly into the buttered baking dish, leveling the top. Bake at 400º 30 minutes. Serve warm.