Friday, November 20, 2015

Traveling

I have been traveling for the last three and a half weeks, so not home on the range. But I've visited some glorious farmers' markets and even more glorious city markets, including Europe's biggest and most famed, Barcelona's Boqueria where you have to fight your way down the aisles.

European markets are far more sophisticated than ours. For starters, every village and town you enter not only has the standard sign announcing its population but one announcing its market days. Loche: Wednesday and Saturday. Beaulieu-de-Loche: Sunday.  These are not just a collection of tables under tents. Fishmongers have huge 18 wheeler refrigerated cases packed with fish on ice, cheese merchants have the same long long refrigerated case displaying dozens of varieties. Butchers bring the same set-up. So you can go home with fresh eggs, chickens, meat, cheese, butter, yogurts and milk, fish, fruits, herbs, dried fruits, olives and other pickled vegetables and all the produce of the season. Even fresh broth. You never need a supermarket.

Here are some photos of the Wednesday market in the medieval French village of Sarlet-le-Caneda, including a whole foie grasse section set up in an unused period church, redesigned by a world renowned architect just for that purpose.




Barcelona's Boqueria is not only a seemingly endless bazaar of charcuterie, cheeses, fruits, nuts, meats and fish, but tiny tapas bars are studded in between the extensive stalls so you can grab a bite and beverage while you shop. The smaller Santa Caterina market a half mile away in a more residential neighborhood has its own market restaurant attached, serving up seasonal fare of the day. With a glass of cava, Spanish prosecco, I had a casserole of fresh artichokes with bits of Spanish ham and clams still in their shell. I also saw in that market Maine lobster for sale, although technically it was,the fishmonger   said, from Canada. They're quicker on the mental draw than Maine, alas.

I am writing this in Nashville, Tennessee where tonight was a special Night Farmers' Market with music, baking demonstrations and a bar so city folks could gather their Thanksgiving ingredients. another one will happen just before Christmas. 

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