Cauliflower: Multicolorful

 

See, cauliflower doesn't have to be boring. So don't pass it up. Right now you can eat it as a political statement: word about this vegetable goes back 5,000 years and hints that it's probably Syrian. Better yet, it's almost as good for you as its kissing cousin the cabbage: an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, detoxification aid that lowers risk of cancers including colon, ovarian and stomach. One trimmed pound serves 4. And here are some mighty tasty ways to do that.

French Gateau au Choufleur: a visually lovely molded not quite soufflé of cauliflower and cheese perfect for right now

for 6 people

1 large cauliflower

1-2 tbsp vinegar

½ lb fromage blanc or ricotta in a pinch

3 tbsp unsalted butter

2 tbsp flour

3 oz gruyere cheese, grated

¼ cup chopped chives

4 egg yolks

½ tsp ground nutmeg

Salt and pepper to your taste

Butter to grease the baking dish

1/3 cup bread crumbs

Remove the greens and thick stem and separate the cauliflower florets.

Soak them for 15-20 minutes in a large bowl of water with the vinegar added to it.

Drain and put the florets into a large pot of salted water. Cook over medium heat 25 minutes or until cauliflower is soft.

Drain the florets well and finely chop them almost to puree in a food processor.

Heat oven to 350º.

In a small heavy bottom casserole over medium heat, melt the butter. Using a wooden spoon or spatula, stir in the flour, stirring fast to blend it in. Lower heat and cook until the flour/butter roux begins to color and bubble. Bit by bit stir in the fromage blanc. Immediately remove from the heat.

Add salt and pepper. Stir in the cauliflower and chives. Add the gruyere, egg yolks and nutmeg. Stir to blend everything.  Return to low heat and cook 2-3 minutes to warm the mixture.

Butter a soufflé or high-sided baking dish. Fill it with the cauliflower batter.

Sprinkle breadcrumbs on top with a handful of shredded parmesan cheese.

Put the baking dish in a larger oven pan and fill that pan with water halfway up the sides of the baking dish. (A bain-marie). Put in the oven and bake 20 minutes.

Serve immediately in the baking dish.

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 From Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking, here's my cauliflower salad--puttanesca, based on that spicy Italian pasta sauce of olives, capers and chili pepper flakes. It feeds 6 to 8.

1 head cauliflower, broken into florets

½ dry pint cherry tomatoes (about 2 dozen)

12-15 pitted Kalamata or similar olives

½ tsp red pepper flakes

¼ tsp salt

1 tbsp capers, drained

freshly ground black pepper

¼ cup chopped parsley

Core cauliflower and break it into large florets. Line a small baking sheet with foil and place the florets on it. Cover with 1 tbsp olive oil and pinch of salt. Roast at 450 degrees for 12-15 minutes, until florets start to show spots of brown. Cool.

Cut florets into smaller pieces. In a large serving bowl, combine roasted cauliflower, tomatoes, olives, onion, hot pepper, capers, ground pepper, salt and parsley.  Blend well. Season with black pepper to your taste.

Dressing:

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 tbsp balsamic vinegar

1/8 tsp Dijon type mustard

¼ tsp black olive paste or tapenade

Freshly ground black pepper to your taste

1 tbsp grated Parmesano Reggiano cheese or equivalent

In a small cup or cruet, whisk together garlic, balsamic vinegar, mustard and 3 tbsp best quality olive oil. Pour over salad.  Sprinkle grated cheese on top to serve.

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Cauliflower “couscous” with lemon basil sauce

Serves 8

For the basil-lemon sauce

10 large (about 1 cup loosely packed) fresh basil leaves

Zest and juice of 2 lemons, preferably Meyer

1/2 c fruity extra-virgin olive oil

1 tbsp honey

For the couscous

1 tbsp unsalted butter

1 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil

1 medium red onion, finely diced

1 medium cauliflower, stalks and stems discarded, florets finely diced

1/4 tsp chili flakes

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

1/4 c Basil-Lemon Sauce

2 tbsp fresh basil in chiffonade

For the sauce

Combine basil, lemon zest and juice, oil, and honey in a blender. Purée and transfer to a jar with a tight-fitting lid. The sauce will keep in the refrigerator for about 7 to 10 days.

For the cauliflower couscous

Over high heat, melt butter with the olive oil in a sauté pan or wok large enough to hold all the cauliflower. Add onion and sauté until softened, about 2 minutes.

Add the cauliflower and chili flakes. Season liberally with salt and pepper. Blend everything. Cook until cauliflower is soft and looking like couscous, maybe 10 minutes.

Add 2 tbsp of the lemon sauce and cook another 10 minutes. Adjust salt to your taste. Add 2 tbsp. of the lemon sauce and mix thoroughly. Remove from heat and transfer to a serving bowl.

Top with the basil chiffonade.