Transitioning toward Spring

We're not quite at the wearing of the green but Spring is getting closer so it may be time for spring cleaning of the pantry: using up whatever's stashed, and time for thinking greens. That makes Ribollita the recipe of the moment. Ribolitta is simply Italian for re-boiled because the dish is more or less yesterday's soup and bread served today. The soup itself is a brilliant way to use up leftovers and pantry staples still hanging around, so you can clean out the kitchen before Farmer's Markets open. And it features greens available at winter markets.

Ribolitta comes from Tuscany, from peasants who couldn't afford to waste anything and it showcases their beloved local produce: kale, cabbage, white beans and Tuscan (salt-free)  bread. The idea was to use leftover minestrone and bread by combining the two and letting them meld overnight into an entirely new casserole-like dish. So there is no pat, uniform recipe for Ribollita: there are as many versions as there are Tuscan grandmothers. What's consistent is the blending of greens and beans with bread. That makes it perfect comfort food for right now when we're oh so ready for something hearty and bright green on the table.

I've been playing with recipes that vary widely from boil to bake, potatoes or not, and haven't settled on the ultimate ...yet. But here's a good start.  I didn't use potatoes because I figured bread was starch enough but I did throw in an old Parmesan rind for its rich smokiness. (Note: this is stomach and heart warming food that doesn't use any spices or hot peppers; it just purveys the flavors of kale, chard and cabbage.)

 Ribollita
For 6 as main course
(Remember, you can tweak this anyway you want.)

3 tbsp and 2 tsp olive oil

1 med onion, peeled and diced

1 lg garlic clove, peeled and minced

½ tsp dried rosemary leaves (if you prefer oregano, go for it.)

2 sm or 1 lg celery stalks, finely chopped

1 lg carrot, peeled and finely chopped

½ Savoy cabbage, shredded

5 stalks red chard, stems removed and leaves chopped

1 bunch Tuscan/lacinto/blue kale, stems removed and chopped

6-7 cups broth or water

salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

2 cans (about 14 oz) cannellini (white kidney) beans, drained

1-2 tbsp tomato paste

6 slices day or two old (i.e.stale) Tuscan or other dense crusty Italian bread (dense is the key word)

Fruity olive oil for final garnish

Optional: 1 sm parmesan rind

Coat bottom of a large heavy-gauge pot with 3 tbsp olive oil and heat on medium flame.  Add onion, garlic, rosemary, celery and carrots. Sauté until soft, 5 minutes.  Season with freshly ground black pepper to your taste.

Add Savoy cabbage and chard, stirring to blend, and cook until they wilt.

Add broth, optional Parmesan rind, salt and kale. Bring to boil, reduce heat to simmer, cover pot and simmer 40-45 minutes, until vegetables are soft. Timing does not have to be precise.

Purée 1 can of beans. Add puréed and whole beans to the soup along with the tomato paste. (suit yourself with how much) Stir to blend everything. Continue to simmer with lid on pot 15 minutes. Stir from time to time so nothing sticks to the bottom.  Taste for salt and correct if necessary.

At this point, you can be very Tuscan and get out a large earthenware casserole pot, then layer the bread and soup in it. Or you can simply add the bread to the soup pot you’re already using, trying to “layer” it in. In either case, remove soup from heat and let cool. Refrigerate overnight so it sets up.

To serve: stir in 2 tsp olive oil. Reheat on low flame or in the oven until hot enough to eat. Garnish with more fruity olive oil. Serve with simple green salad.