Going Nuts and then some

Here in winter's nadir with not much left in the farmers' markets and not much in the wings, we can turn to protein, vitamin packed staples like beans and nuts. And we can make them so tasty, vivid and hearty, nobody will miss the sprightly freshness of farm food. There are still great conversation pieces you can bring to the table right now.

Before we go completely nuts though, I want to share again the delectable recipe for my favorite winter soup because it's such a cure for the late February blahs: colorful, lip-smacking delicious, hearty, very nutritious, pretty and best of all ridiculously easy to make. It's also for those allergic to nuts.

So one more time,
Turkish Red Lentil Soup

  Serves 4-6

3 tbsp olive oil

1 lg onion, diced

2 lg garlic cloves, minced

1 fresh red chili, seeded and minced

1/8 tsp ground chili powder

2 tsp cumin seeds

2 tsp ground coriander

1 carrot, finely chopped

1 tsp fenugreek (seeds or ground?)

1 tsp celery seeds

1 tbsp tomato paste

1 ¼ cup split red lentils

5 cups vegetable stock and water

½ tsp freshly ground or cracked black pepper

½ tsp salt or more to your taste

for garnish

 1 bunch scallions, finely chopped

 1 bunch flat leaf parsley leaves only, chopped

 juice of ½ fresh lemon (or lemon wedges for each bowl)

In a heavy gauge medium size lidded casserole or other such pan, heat oil over medium. Add onion, garlic, chili, chili powder, cumin seed and ground coriander, stirring to blend. Sauté over medium heat until onion is soft, 3-5 minutes. 

Add carrot and cook another 2 minutes. Add fenugreek, celery seeds and tomato paste, pepper and salt. Stir in the lentils, blending everything.

Pour in the stock and water in any combination you prefer. Bring to a boil.

Immediately cut heat to low, partially cover the pot and simmer 35-40 minutes.

The lentils should now be mushy and the soup thick.

Serve garnished with chopped scallions and parsley and lemon juice or wedges.

If you prefer a smooth soup, puree before garnishing.

AND NOW let's go completely nuts!

Georgian Kidney Bean and Walnut Salad
I just found this homey recipe from a Georgian grandmother, the Caucuses' Georgia, not the South's.
It really does need to be dressed with a lot of cilantro to keep it bright. The taste is unusual and likeable. Also, because some people are allergic--life-threatening allergic--to walnuts, I like to announce they're in a dish by throwing a few whole ones on top where everyone can see them.

Serves 4 heartily
3 tbsp corn, olive or sunflower oil
3 med onions, halved then thinly sliced
7 oz (1 3/4c) walnut pieces
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp sumac (don't fret it you don't have this)
1/2 tsp ground cloves
3-4 tbsp apple cider vinegar
3 cans red kidney beans, drained and rinsed (13-14oz cans)
1 bunch cilantro, leaves chopped
2 tbsp pomegranate arils
salt to your taste
1/2 tsp mild chili powder (Aleppo or chipotle pepper works fine)

Heat the oil in a large skillet and over medium/low heat sauté the onions until soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Try not to burn them.

almost walnut paste

Grind the walnuts in a food processor or chopper into a smooth paste. This will take a few minutes as the first efforts will be grainy and you want smooth. Part way add the spices and vinegar. Process to the consistency of thick yogurt, adding a few drops of water or/and oil if necessary.
   Put the beans in a large serving bowl and stir in the cooked onions. Salt to your taste. Carefully stir in the walnut paste to coat everything evenly. Season with the chili powder. Garnish with chopped cilantro and pomegranate arils.
   You can serve this right away or put away in the refrigerator for tomorrow.






Italian Pasta with Walnut Sauce

Something a little different yet very familiar.

Serves 4

½ c walnuts, shelled
2 pieces day-old crustless bread

¼ c whole milk
1 garlic clove

¼ c flat leaf parsley leaves
½ c extra virgin olive oil
2 tbsp heavy cream or crème fraiche

¼ c parmesan cheese grated

salt and freshly ground black pepper

pinch of red pepper flakes
¾ lb cavatelli (thin twisted 2” long) pasta

Soak the walnuts in boiling water about 15 minutes. Drain and remove as much of the skins as you can. It’s a pain but this will keep the sauce from being too bitter.

Preheat the oven to 225º.

Break the bread into small pieces, put it in a bowl and pour the milk over it. Let it sit 5 minutes, then squeeze out the milk. In a food processer, combine the bread with the walnuts, garlic and parsley leaves. Blitz while pouring in the oil to make a smooth sauce. Transfer the mixture to an over proof serving bowl. Mix in the cream, cheese and pinch of red pepper flakes. Season with salt and a bit of freshly ground pepper. Place the bowl in the warm oven while the pasta cooks.

Cook the pasta according to package instructions. Drain, reserving some of the water.  Stir in into the warm bowl of walnut sauce, add 2-3 tbsps of the reserved pasta water to loosen the sauce. Serve at once with an extra bowl of grated parmesan.

Circassian Chicken
The Circassian people lived between the Black and Caspian Sea until the Ottomans dispersed them. Most moved south into the Middle East, bringing this dish with them--to the delight of the Ottoman Turks who immediately put it on their own plates. There are two ways to present this: one as a chicken salad, one as layers of chicken topped with layers of the walnut sauce. First is the room temperature salad which can be made a day ahead and stored in the refrigerator.
serves 4-6

One 4 lb chicken, quartered

1 onion, halved

4 allspice berries or 1 tsp ground allspice

4 whole cloves

4 black peppercorns

3 bay leaves

1 tsp coriander seeds

Water

Salt to your taste

1 pita bread, torn into pieces

1/2 c milk or half-and-half

2 cups walnuts (6-7 ounces)

2 garlic cloves, smashed

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tbsp finely chopped cilantro leaves

1 tsp ground Turkish red pepper, such as Aleppo or Urfa or ½ tsp chili powder

   

Put the chicken in a large soup pot. Add the onion, allspice, cloves, peppercorns, bay leaves and coriander seeds. Add enough water to cover the chicken and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to low, cover the pot and simmer until the chicken is tender, 30-40 minutes. Transfer the chicken to a plate and when it is cool enough to handle, discard the skin and pull the meat off the bones in shreds. Put the shredded chicken in a large bowl.

   

Strain the fragrant chicken broth and transfer 3 cups to a small saucepan. Boil until it’s reduced by half, about 10 minutes. Season with salt to your taste.

In a small bowl, sink the pita in the milk and mash it down until it is completely soaked. Transfer the pita to a food processor. Add the walnuts and garlic and process to a thick paste. While the machine is on, slowly pour in a thin stream about 1 cup of the reduced chicken broth until a sauce as thick as Greek yogurt forms; add more broth if necessary. Season the sauce with salt and pepper.

Fold half the walnut sauce into the bowl with the chicken. Add the cilantro and half the ground red pepper. Mound the chicken on a plate, sprinkle the remaining Turkish red pepper all over and spread half the remaining sauce on top.  Garnish with a few whole walnuts and pass the extra walnut sauce at the table.

It isn’t authentically Circassian but you could put the chicken on a bed of arugula for a dazzling presentation.

AND of course you knew there'd be more chickpeas. So here's the easiest one perfect for right now if you are allergic to nuts, or even if not!
Chickpea Mushroom Loaf

serves 4

1 large Portobello mushroom, rinsed and chopped

1 red onion, chopped

1 can chickpeas, rinsed

2 cloves garlic, minced

2 tbsp Parmesan cheese 

2 tsp tomato paste

1 tbsp cumin

1/4 tsp salt

1/4 tsp pepper

2 eggs , beaten

3 tbsp olive oil

¼ c cilantro leaves, chopped

1/2 cup breadcrumbs

Preheat oven to 325º. Combine all ingredients except breadcrumbs in a large bowl and mix together. Use a hand blender or a food processor to roughly blend them together (don't create a perfect paste). Then add breadcrumbs, thoroughly blend, and spoon into a greased loaf pan.

  Bake at 325º degrees 45 minutes or until the edges are crispy. Serve hot with barbecue sauce or raita.

 
Next time: in honor of March St Patrick's Day, the annual eatin' o' the greens!

Warming the heart and stomach

Nothing carries more comfort to the table here in midwinter than an eye popping pot pie. Dig in, steam out. It warms the room and the soul. It's cool on cash. It gives plain food glamour and bulk. It's old fashioned yet gleefully new, a tradition to savor. So here are a few potpie recipes with ingredients good to go right now:

Chili Pot Pie
 serves up to 6

1 lb ground beef
1 med onion, finely chopped
1 med green bell pepper, finely chopped
1 sm poblano pepper, finely chopped
2 c (15oz can) red kidney beans, rinsed and drained
28 0z can whole tomatoes
6 oz tomato paste
3 garlic cloves, crushed and minced
1 sm hot green pepper, seeded and diced
1 tsp chili powder (I like chipotle for the smokiness)
1 tbsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp dried sage
1 tbsp Worcestershire sauce
1/4 c red wine vinegar
1 bay leaf
Salt to your taste
2 tbsp corn oil (or more if needed)

for the crust:
6 tbsp unbleached all purpose flour
1 1/4 tsp baking powder
1 tbsp sugar
1/4 tsp salt
1/2 c + 2 tbsp cornmeal
1 egg white
2 tbsp melted butter
1/2 c milk
2 oz shredded Jack or mild Cheddar cheese

Coat the bottom of a med/lg skillet with the corn oil and get it hot over med heat. Add the onion, bell and poblano peppers. Sauté 5-6 min until soft. Add the beef and garlic. Continue cooking until all the meat is brown. Stir in the kidney beans, tomatoes and paste, spices, Worcestershire sauce and hot pepper. Reduce heat to low, cover and simmer 1 hour. Add vinegar and salt to your taste. Cover and cook another 1/2 hour.

Meanwhile make the crust: In a small bowl, combine all dry ingredients and blend.
In a med bowl mix together the egg white, melted butter, milk and cheese.
Whisk the dry ingredients into the wet mix until just combined. Do not overblend.

Heat oven to 350º.
Get out a 2 qt ovenproof casserole and fill it evenly with the warm chili. Level the top.
Spread the crust mixture evenly over the top.
Bake at 350º 20 minutes, until the crust is crisp.

New England Clam Pie
for 6

Some put clam chowder into bread, this recipe puts it into a pie!

3  8oz. cans minced clams OR 36 clams in their shell
6 tbsp unsalted butter
6 oz, fresh mushrooms, washed and sliced thin
6 scallions, minced
1/4 c unbleached all purpose flour
1 tsp celery seed
1/2 tsp dry mustard
1/2 tsp chili powder
Sea salt to your taste
1/4 tsp ground black pepper
1 c clam broth
1 c evaporated milk (full fat) or half-and-half
1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 tbsp finely chopped flat leaf parsley
3 tbsp pimientos, chopped
Pastry for one crust 9" pie or 3 cups mashed potatoes
1 egg, beaten or 1 tbsp unsalted butter
1/2 tsp paprika

If using fresh clams, wash thoroughly and put them in a large pot totally covered with water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer 10 minutes until all the clams are open. Remove clams from water, saving 1 cup of the cooking water. Remove clams from their shells and cut in half.
   If using canned clams, drain but reserve 1 cup of the broth in the cans. If you don't have enough use a can of clam broth.

In a med/lg skillet, melt the butter. Add the mushrooms and scallions. Sauté 5 minutes until mushrooms are tender. Using a sifter or strainer, carefully stir in the flour. Stir in the celery seed, dried mustard, chili powder, salt and pepper. Now gradually add the clam broth and milk product, stirring constantly until the sauce thickens. Stir in lemon juice, parsley, pimientos and finally the clams. Remove from heat.

Heat oven to 375º.
Pour the clam mixture into a buttered 9" round pie plate that's at least 2" deep.
If using pie crust, roll it out and fit it on top of the pie, crimping and sealing the edges as tightly as you can. Using a fork, cut tiny vent holes in the center. Brush the crust with the beaten egg and shake paprika all over it.
   If using mashed potatoes, carefully spread them across the top of the pie being sure to seal the edges tightly. Chop the butter in bits and distribute evenly over the potatoes, sprinkle with paprika too.
Bake 20-25 min until the pie crust or mashed potatoes are crisp and golden brown.


Root Vegetable and Chickpea Pot Pie

This colorful and nourishing dish is from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking with chickpeas added.

Serves 6

1 lg onion, peeled

1 small rutabaga, peeled and coarsely chopped into bite-sized pieces

1 white turnip, peeled and chopped into bite-sized pieces

3 carrots, peeled and cut crosswise into 1” pieces

1 parsnip, peeled and cut into ½” disks

1 sweet potato, peeled and sliced into thin disks

1 leek, washed and cut into ½” disks

1 sm daikon, peeled and cut into thin disks

1 small celeriac bulb, peeled and coarsely chopped

6 purple or red round potatoes, washed and quartered

1 shallot, peeled and thinly sliced

2” piece of fresh ginger, peeled and minced

4 lg garlic cloves, peeled and minced

½ tsp ground turmeric (this is a rhizome)

3 tbsp olive or peanut (a ground nut) oil

1 tsp salt

¼ tsp ground chipotle powder or smoked paprika

2 tsp dried marjoram leaves

1 tsp ground coriander (this is the root of the plant)

1/8 tsp ground black pepper

1 ½ c vegetable broth or water

½ c chopped tomatoes

1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

½ c fresh parsley sprigs, chopped

for the crust

1 cup dried polenta meal

½ cup buttermilk

1 tsp salt

3 tbsp

¼ c grated parmesan, romano or asiago cheese

4 c water

pinch of nutmeg

 

Slice the onion into thin disks, then slice each disk in half and in half again.

Heat the oil in a large casserole or small soup pot over medium heat.  Add the garlic, ginger, black pepper and turmeric and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the shallot slices, the onion and the leek. Sauté 3-5 minutes until they are soft. (The turmeric will color them.)Stir in the ground coriander, chipotle or smoked paprika and marjoram. Put the remaining root vegetables in the pot. Add the salt and broth or water. Raise heat to a boil. Cover, lower heat to simmer and cook 20 minutes.

Preheat an oven to 350º.  Get out a large deep-dish pie pan.

 In a large saucepan, boil the 4 cups of water and salt. Stir in the polenta and 2 tbsp of butter and stir rapidly to blend, so the polenta doesn’t lump up.  Continue stirring and cooking the polenta for 4-5 minutes, until it starts to release large bubbles.  Remove from heat and stir in the buttermilk. Stir the tomatoes, chickpeas and chopped parsley into the vegetables.

Fill the pie dish with the vegetables and their juice, leaving about ¼” at the top. Using a large kitchen spoon, spoon the polenta over the top to create a crust, up to ½” thick is okay. Be sure to cover the edges and smooth the top. Cut 1 tbsp of butter into tiny pieces and scatter on top of the cooked polenta. Sprinkle on the cheese and the pinch of nutmeg. Put the pie in the center of the oven and put a large cookie sheet on the rack below it to catch any spills.  Cook for 20-30 minutes, until the top vaguely starts to brown and crisp.  Remove and let it cool for 5-10 minutes before serving.

Greek Island Lamb Pie 

Here's a warm reminder of summer days to come.

serves 6

1 1/2 lb lamb, diced into bite sized pieces

1 tbsp unsalted butter

1 1/2 c diced Yukon gold potatoes

1 lg onion, finely chopped

2 celery stalks, finely chopped

1/4 c flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

2 garlic cloves, minced

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/4 tsp crushed dried mint

1 tbsp olive oil

1 lb phyllo

1/2 c melted unsalted butter

1/2 c feta cheese

Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat oven to 350º.

In a med skillet, melt 1 tbsp butter and brown the lamb in it. Season with salt and pepper.

In a med bowl, combine the cooked lamb with the potatoes, celery, onion, garlic, cinnamon, parsley, mint, feta and olive oil.  Blend well.  

Butter the bottom of an 8x8" or 9x9" square baking pan. Line it with one sheet of phyllo. Brush the dough with melted butter. Repeat this process to get half the box of phyllo in the pan. (6-8 sheets) Pour the mixture into the pan, even and level it. Season with salt to your taste. Cover with two sheets of phyllo and brush melted butter all over the top. Add another sheet of phyllo, brush with butter and continue until all the dough is used up. Brush the top with butter, sprinkle a pinch of cinnamon over it and a pinch of nutmeg. Bake at 350º 1 hour. Allow to cool at least 5 minutes before serving in squares.

British Cottage Pie (meat and potatoes)

serves 6-8

1  9-10" cold pie crust or you can try pizza dough if you roll it thin enough

2 lbs ground sirloin

1 lg yellow onion, chopped

1 pkg frozen peas, rinsed

2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

salt and pepper to your taste

2 tbsp Worcestershire sauce

6 boiling potatoes (red skin) 

1/2 c milk

1 tbsp unsalted butter

pinch of nutmeg

pinch of paprika

Peel the potatoes, cut into quarters, put in a saucepan and cover with water. Cook until just tender. Drain and put in a large bowl. Add milk and butter and whip or mash until fluffy mashed potatoes. Season with salt and pepper.  

Heat oven to 350º. Butter a 2" deep, 9" wide pie pan. Line it with the pie crust, crimping the edges around the top. 

In a large bowl, mix together the ground sirloin, chopped onion, peas, parsley, Worcestershire sauce, salt and freshly ground black pepper.  (It isn't British but it you want to toss a bit of chili powder in, go ahead.) Fill the pie pan with this mixture, spreading it evenly, and level the top. Using a spatula, spread the mashed potatoes over the top and swirl into a pattern of waves. Sprinkle with nutmeg and paprika. Bake 1 hour.  

Broccoli Cornbread Pie with mushrooms and tomatoes

serves 8

2 onions, chopped

3 tbsp olive oil

1/2 lb button or shiitake mushrooms, cleaned and halved

3 garlic cloves, minced

28 ox can plum tomatoes, drained and chopped--reserve the juice!

1/4 c sherry

1-2 bunches broccoli rabe, cleaned and chopped (you'll need 7 cups)

1/4 c pine nuts

for the crust

1 c stoneground cornmeal

1 c unbleached flour

 2 tsp double-acting baking powder 

1/2 tsp baking soda

1 tsp salt

2 large eggs, lightly beaten

1/4 c (1/2 stick) unsalted butter, melted

1/2 c milk

1/2 c sour cream

3 tsp honey

1/2 c sharp Cheddar, grated

1 c corn kernels, thoroughly drained

 Heat oven to 400º.

In a large skillet warm the olive oil over low heat. Add the onions and sauté 3-5 min until softened. Add mushrooms and sauté stirring occasionally, until the mushroom liquid has evaporated. Add the pine nuts and brown them. Add the garlic and broccoli, salt and pepper. Cook 2 minutes, then add the sherry, the tomatoes and their juice. Bring to a boil, cover the pot, reduce heat to simmer and cook 15 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Strain the liquid and pour the broccoli mixture into an 11 1/2" x8"x2" baking pan. 

Put the liquid into a sauce pan, boil hard to reduce it to 3/4 and pour over the broccoli.

In a large bowl, combine the cornmeal, flour, baking powder, baking soda, and salt.  Using a wooden spoon, add the eggs, butter, milk, sour cream, honey, corn kernels and Cheddar, stirring just to combine evenly. Spread this batter over the broccoli mixture, leveling the top. Bake 30 minutes at 400º or until a cake tester inserted into the cornbread crust comes out clean.

 There's also of course chicken pot pie--use a whole roast chicken for greatest effect-- and the famous Tourtiere, Quebec pork pie.

Some of these photos are borrowed.

 

Winter Break

Just posting to say I have not forgotten to post or stopped coming up with ideas. I am away from home and therefore unable to cook and photograph. Please be patient. Fabulous midwinter cooking ideas next week: pasta with walnut sauce, meatballs with chickpeas and potatoes and a plethora of potpies...I'm researching....

Warm up winter

Now's the time to defeat those winter blahs by bringing something hot, glamorous and tasty to the table.
Coming soon an array of potpies. But for now, while I am traveling, here are a few special recipes to get you going. Apologies for lack of photos this post.
 
Leek Dill Pie
serves 6

4 lg leeks
3 tbsp olive or other vegetable oil
2 med yellow onions, peeled and minced
2 lg eggs, lightly beaten
1 c lg curd cottage cheese
1/2 c coarsely grated Muenster or Havarti cheese
1/3 c grated parmesan cheese
1 heaping tbsp finely chopped fresh dill
salt to your taste
1/4 tsp cayenne or Aleppo or chili pepper
1/2 c whole milk plain yogurt
1 tsp dried mint leaves
1 tbsp fresh lime juice

Preheat oven to 350º.
Clean the leeks carefully. Cut them into 1/8" thick rings.
Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat. Add the onions and leeks.
Sauté until soft and golden, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat.
In a med/lg bowl, combine the cottage cheese, other cheeses, eggs, dill, salt and hot pepper. Stir in the leeks and onions and blend well.
Coat a 9" pie plate (glass preferable) with oil. Pour in the leek batter and level it. Bake in center of the oven about 45 minutes, until the center is firm when pierced with a tester. Remove from the oven.
Whisk together the yogurt, mint leaves and lime juice. Serve beside the pie.

Roasted Pork Chops with Apples and Sunchokes or Potatoes
serves 4
3 tbsp unsalted butter
1/3 c olive oil
2 lbs sunchokes or small Yukon gold potatoes,
4 pork rib chops, weight about 2 1/2 lbs
juice of one lemon
2 lbs apples
6 cloves garlic, peeled
1/3 c apple cider vinegar
1 c apple juice

 Preheat the oven to 400º.
In a large covered heavy gauge casserole, warm the butter and olive oil over med/low heat.
Season the pork with salt and black pepper to your taste. Brown them on both sides lightly in the hot butter/oil.Remove the meat to a plate.
Peel the sunchokes or potatoes. Put them in the oil/butter and sauté 5 minutes until they color.
Cut the apples in quarters, core and seed, then cut the quarters in half lengthwise. Add them to the pot and sauté just until they begin to brown. Add the whole garlic cloves. Pour in the vinegar, let it sizzle and scrap up anything crispy on the bottom of the pan. Add the apple juice and pork chops on top. Cover the pot.

Bake for an hour until the pork and artichokes or potatoes are tender. Serve the chops with the artichokes/potatoes and apples, checking the liquor for seasoning and spooning it over the chops.

Roman Rice Croquettes

Supplì alla romana– Roman rice croquettes

Makes 20
1 onion
1 stick of celery, with leaves
1 carrot, peeled
Extra virgin olive oil
1 tsp rosemary or thyme, finely chopped
Salt
2/3 lb minced pork or sausage meat
1/4 lb chicken livers
2 c simple tomato sauce, or passata
2 c water/vegetable or meat broth
2 c risotto (carnaroli) rice
1/2 c white wine
2 eggs
1/2 c parmesan or pecorino, grated
1/2 c mozzarella, cut into 20 small batons
Coarse breadcrumbs
Oil for frying (peanut or sunflower)

Finely chop the onion, celery and carrot. In a large, deep frying pan or casserole, warm the olive oil and fry the vegetables with the herbs and a pinch of salt until soft. Add the pork and chicken livers and cook until the meat is browned.

Put the tomato sauce and broth/water in two pans, on a low heat at the back of the stove.

Add the rice to the frying pan and stir until it is slightly toasted, then add the wine and stir until it evaporates. Add alternate ladles of broth and tomato sauce to the rice, stirring continuously and giving time between additions until the rice is al dente and all the liquid absorbed – about 16 minutes. Take the pan off the heat, wait 5 minutes then add one egg and all the parmesan to the mixture. Mix to combine. Leave to cool for at least an hour.

 Shape the croquettes by taking a small handful of the rice mix, then make small football in your palm. Press a piece of mozzarella into the center and squeeze your palm slightly to mold the rice around the cheese until it is enclosed. Let the croquettes rest on a baking tray lined with parchment.

 Prepare a bowl of beaten egg, and another of seasoned breadcrumbs. Dip each croquette in the egg, then the crumbs, letting any excess fall away. In a heavy skillet or frying pan, heat 2 tbsp oil to sizzling.  Fry the croquettes in batches of 4 for 2 minutes, then lift out to rest for 45 secs, before returning to the oil for another 45 seconds. Blot on kitchen towel, sprinkle with salt and serve hot.

Catalans can cook! What food they have!

I've not quit, not changed course. I've just been away on vacation, eating chickpeas to collect recipes for a book about the little black dress of the kitchen. I'll pick up the regular info sharing shortly. Meanwhile here's a look at the food in Spain:

special extra juicy tomatoes for Pan de Tomate

 

(rub the juicy tomato all over a slice of bread)

Catalan sausage and chickpeas

Catalan chickpeas with chorizo

Santa Caterina Mercado, Barcelona

Catalan take-out food

 

 

Traditional chickpeas with spinach and chorizo

Part 8: Chickpeas, winter warmth and glamour

This is when I normally post the annual Lucky peas recipe or recipes because eating black-eyed peas on the first day of the New Year is supposed to bring wealth and other good fortune in the year ahead. You can dig back to late Decembers past to find the recipes because right now I want to share some really awesome chickpea recipes from all over the world that will warm your kitchen, your body and your heart.  These are tasty, colorful and absolutely yummy to the max. Some are also quite gala, in case you are celebrating New Year's Day or Epiphany on January 6 or a birthday or whatever you want to fete.

Chickpea, Frisee and Fish Salad

Look at that photo and ask yourself if there's a more colorful, mouthwatering, exotic winter salad to bring to the table right now. It's lunch, brunch perfection. You can use what fish you prefer: sardines, jarred or canned tuna, roasted salmon, smoked whitefish or, as I did in this pic, smoked mackerel broken into bits.

Serves 4

¼ c olive oil

2 tsp harissa

2½ tbsp lemon juice

Salt and black pepper

½ red onion, peeled and finely sliced in thin rings

4 large eggs

1 medium frisee, trimmed, leaves separated and cut into bite size pieces

2 tins of sardines in olive oil, drained, the fish broken into 1” pieces OR

   1 smoked mackerel, skinned and cut into pieces OR 2 cans/jars oil based tuna

1 15 oz chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2 tbsp small capers,

1 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Put 3 tbsp olive oil in a small bowl. Whisk in the harissa, lemon juice, ¼ tsp salt and plenty of pepper, then stir in the onion. Set aside for 30 minutes.

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil, and boil the eggs for 8 minutes. Drain, refresh under cold water, peel and set aside.

Not quite dressed yet...

Put the remaining tbsp. olive oil in a large bowl, add the frisee with a pinch of salt, and toss gently to coat. Arrange the moist frisee on a large platter or divide between four plates.

In bowl the frisee was in, gently mix the fish, chickpeas, capers and parsley, then scatter over the lettuce. Spoon all but two tbsp of the onion and dressing over the to.

Carefully quarter the eggs, sprinkle with a pinch of salt and arrange on the salad. Give a good grind of pepper over the top of everything and drizzle the remaining dressing on top.

Ethiopian Chickpea Stew with Berbere Spice
I cannot stop recommending the Berbere spice mix from Ethiopia. It's addictively delicious because it wakes up everything including your tongue. It's not hot, just merry and bright. Because it takes a few minutes, I make up a batch, about 1/2 c, and store it in a jar in the fridge for up to 4 months. By then it's definitely gone. I posted the recipe earlier this year as well as in years before as my gift to you, dear readers. At the bottom of this recipe, I am posting it one more time because, as I said, I cannot recommend it enough. 
 serves 6-8

2 (15-ounce) cans chickpeas (also known as garbanzo beans), rinsed and drained

4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, divided

2 garlic cloves, minced

1 medium red onion, diced

1” piece fresh ginger, peeled and grated or finely chopped

1 cup chopped tomatoes

1 tbsp tomato paste

4 c vegetable broth

1 lb red potatoes (about 3 medium) cut into 1” chunks

4 orange carrots, cut into ½” thick disks.

2 tbsp Berbere spice mix*

fistful of chopped fresh cilantro leaves for garnish

Preheat oven to 450°.

Make the spice mix if you don’t already have it. (It’s so sensational, you should always have some around.)
In a medium bowl, toss chickpeas with 2 tbsp of olive oil, then pour them into a single layer on a large rimmed baking/cookie sheet. Roast, stirring occasionally, until just starting to turn golden brown, 16 to 18 minutes. Take 5-6 off the top and set aside for garnish.

Meanwhile, in a medium pot, heat remaining 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add garlic, onion and chopped ginger. Sauté, stirring occasionally, until the onion is soft and translucent, 5-8 minutes. Stir in the Berbere spice mix and cook, stirring constantly about 2 minutes to make the spices fragrant and toasted. Stir in tomatoes and cook another 2 minutes so they are hot.

Stir in broth, potatoes, carrots and chickpeas. Bring the pot to a boil. reduce heat to medium-low, cover and simmer 20 minutes until carrots and potatoes are tender. Uncover the pot and simmer another 15-20 minutes so the stew thickens. The potatoes and carrots should be almost mushy tender. Serve with the set aside chickpeas on top and a fistful of chopped fresh cilantro leaves.

THE BERBERE SPICE MIX RECIPE (again)

2 tsp. coriander seeds

1 tsp. fenugreek seeds

1⁄2 tsp. black peppercorns

1⁄4 tsp. whole allspice

6 white cardamom pods

4 whole cloves

1⁄2 cup dried onion flakes (optional, I don't use them)

5 dried Arbol chilies, stemmed, seeded,

and broken into small pieces

3 tbsp. paprika

2 tsp. kosher salt

1⁄2 tsp. ground nutmeg

1⁄2 tsp. ground ginger

1⁄2 tsp. ground cinnamon

Directions

1. In a small skillet, combine coriander seeds, fenugreek seeds, black peppercorns, allspice, cardamom pods, and cloves. Toast spices over medium heat, swirling skillet constantly, until fragrant, about 4 minutes.

2. Let cool slightly; transfer to a spice grinder along with onion flakes and grind until fine. Add chilies, and grind with the other spices until fine.

3. Transfer the mixture to a bowl and stir in paprika, salt, nutmeg, ginger, and cinnamon. Store in an airtight container.

Gala Turkish Dessert: Ashure or Noah's Ark

The legend of this gala dessert from Anatolia is that when his ark washed ashore, Noah made it from whatever had survived the great flood, thus the curious combination of grains, beans and fruits. Yet that weirdness yields a uniquely vivid, nourishing and tasty dish. There are many moving parts so it takes a bit of time to assemble but the good news is that every one of them is very simple so it's hard to fail. Other good news is it can be made with stuff stashed on the pantry shelf.

serves 5-6 (double it for a crowd)
1 oz dried navy (white) beans, soaked overnight
1 oz dried chickpeas soaked overnight
1 oz canned cooked fava beans, drained and rinsed (my shortcut because dried favas can be harder to find)
2 oz buckwheat groats/kasha
1 oz (about 3 heaping tbsp) short grain rice, rinsed clear
1/2 c dried apricots, chopped
3 tbsp golden raisins
1 tbsp dried currants
scant 1/2 c sugar
3 tbsp confectioners/ powdered sugar (or pure cornstarch if you have it)
1/3 c rose water (not optional as this is the flavor base)
1/2 tsp cinnamon
For the Topping
4 dried figs, sliced
6 dried apricots, sliced
1 tbsp golden raisins plumped 10 minutes in warm water and drained)
 1 tbsp toasted pine nuts
1 tbsp unsalted pistachio nutmeats
1/4 c pomegranate seeds
1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

Drain the soaked beans, put them in separate pots, add 3 times the amount of water and cook until tender. The white beans will be first at about 50 minutes, the chickpeas at 1 hour.  Drain.

In a large pot, cook the buckwheat groats in 3 times the amount of water until tender, about 1/2 hour, Stir occasionally to prevent sticking and add water if necessary. When it's tender, add all the beans and the rice. Be sure everything is covered by 1" of water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer 15 minutes until the rice is soft. The beans may start to look mushy which is ok.

While this is cooking soak the dried fruits not for the topping in boiling water for 10 minutes to plump. Drain.  Add to the grain pot with the sugar. Stir to blend and simmer, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until the mixture starts to thicken. Stir in the powdered sugar/cornstarch along the way to speed it up. As it thickens add the rose water and simmer until the mixture is very thick, like the pudding it is supposed to be. see photo here,
Transfer the pudding into a serving bowl that still gives another 1" of room on top and level it. Decorate with the topping fruits and nuts. Serve chilled or at room temperature.




Cazuela de Garbanzos con Chorizo 
(Catalan chickpea and sausage stew with spinach)
This is a best bet for a fast, fresh, flavorful and friendly winter night dinner,
serves 4

6  6 tbsp olive oil

1/ 2 lb Spanish chorizo, sliced thin

2  2 garlic cloves, minced

2  15 oz cans chickpeas, drained and rinsed

2  2 tsp sweet paprika

¾ 3/4 lb spinach, chopped

ju  juice and zest of 1 lemon

s  salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Heat a large nonstick skillet or cast iron paella pan (see below) over medium flame. Add the olive oil. When it starts shimmer, add chorizo and lightly brown, stirring occasionally 1 to 2 minutes. Add garlic and sauté until fragrant, about 45 seconds. Add chickpeas and paprika. Stir to coat chickpeas with oil and paprika and cook until chickpeas are just heated through, stirring frequently, about 2 to 3 minutes. Add spinach [in batches, if necessary], tossing to coat it with oil and wilt it. When the spinach has just wilted, remove from heat and stir in the lemon juice and zest. Season to your taste with salt and pepper and serve.


Chilean Chickpeas with Rice and Pumpkin

serves 4
½ lb or 1 c. dried chickpeas
1/2 c rice
¼ lb pumpkin or butternut squash cut into cubes
1 garlic clove minced

1 med onion finely chopped
1/4 red pepper like Fresno (mildly warm) or a bell pepper, diced
3 tbsp olive oil
1 bay leaf

4 c veg broth or water
Salt to your taste
Freshly ground black pepper

Soak the chickpeas in a bowl overnight. Drain, rinse and put them with the bay leaf in a pot covered with 2” of water. Bring to a boil, lower heat and simmer 1 hour until they are tender. Remove the bay leaf and discard. Rinse the chickpeas.

Coat the bottom of a medium heavy gauge pot with the olive oil. Get it hot over medium heat. Add the onion, garlic and red pepper and sauté 5-7 minutes until soft. Add the chickpeas, rice, pumpkin/squash, salt and broth. Be sure everything is buried in the broth and there is at least 1” liquid above. If not add more broth or water. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook uncovered 20 minutes, stirring occasionally to prevent sticking, until the pumpkin is soft and the rice plump. Season with black pepper to serve.

Colombian Cream of Chickpea Soup

Cream soups are quite common in Colombia I am told and this is one of the most popular.

Serves 4-6

3 tbsp unsalted butter

1/2 small onion, diced

3 scallions, finely chopped

1 garlic clove, minced

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

1 tsp ground cumin

1/2 lb dried chickpeas, soaked overnight

6 c beef broth

2 c heavy cream

1/2 c chopped fresh cilantro leaves

Warm a medium soup pot over medium heat. Add the butter, onions, scallions, garlic, cumin, salt and pepper. Sauté until the onions are soft and translucent, about 5 minutes.

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and add to the pot with the beef broth. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce heat to low, cover the pot, and simmer about 2 hrs stirring occasionally, until the chickpeas are tender. Take 8 chickpeas out of the pot and set aside.

Using a blender or food processor, puree the soup to a chunky texture, and return to the pot.

Stir in the heavy cream and warm the soup over low heat. If it is too thick, thin it with water. Ladle into bowls and garnish each bowl with cilantro and reserved chickpeas.

And yes there are more chickpea recipes to come!