The FAVArite Spring Bean

We Americans don't do fava, the ancient protein packed wonder bean of the Mediterranean. That's a shame because fava beans, especially dried, may be the tastiest and sweetest of the class. And spring is their season. If you get them fresh and slim from a farmers' market, you don't have to double peel them--an added bonus. And you should get them: they are a nutritional treasure chest of iron, protein, potassium and magnesium. Plus their bright green is invigorating to look at.

Fava beans have an alias: broad beans. In a few places they're aka pigeon beans or horse beans. Dried and canned, they're often called "ful." But right now is fresh fava harvest. So here are a few ways to dig in and enjoy them while the getting is good.

Spring Fava and Leftover Lamb Pilaf 
 

Serves 4
1 1/4 lbs fava beans, removed from their pods
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, sliced
3 mint leaves, chopped
1/4 tsp coriander seeds
Juice of ¼ lemon

For the pilaf
2 onions, sliced
2-3 tbsp olive oil
1 tbsp ground coriander
3 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
3/4 c brown basmati rice
1/2 lb  lamb, leftover from a roast, shredded into bite-size pieces
A small cinnamon stick
1 2/3 c water

To serve
Yogurt
Toasted cumin seeds
Salt and black pepper
Extra virgin olive oil

      First, prepare the beans. Coat the bottom of a lidded frying pan with 2-3 tbsp olive oil and warm over medium heat. Gently sauté the fava beans. Add the sliced garlic, cover and cook  2 minutes. Add the chopped mint, coriander and lemon juice and sauté 2 more minutes. Set aside.

      Preheat the oven to 325º. Coat the bottom of a heavy-bottom casserole dish with 2-3 tbsp olive oil and gently sauté the onions 15-20 minutes, until soft and caramelized. Add the coriander and garlic and cook  2 more minutes.

      Add the rice and stir, coating every grain with oil, onion and spice. Add the lamb, cooked broad beans, cinnamon stick and water. Bring to a boil,  reduce heat, taste and adjust the seasoning. Put the lid on and place the dish in the oven about 45 minutes. All the water should be absorbed.

      Serve with yogurt seasoned with toasted cumin seeds, salt and pepper, and olive oil.

Spring Fava with Fresh Artichokes, Peas and Lettuce
serves 6
juice of 1 lemon
6 lg artichokes
4 heads Little Gem lettuce
1/4 c olive oil, good quality is best
2 lbs fresh shelled fava beans, blanched and peeled
1/4 c chopped flat-leaf parsley
1/4 c chopped fresh basil
Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/2 c vegetable broth
1 c shelled English peas

grated zest of 2 lemons
6 tbsp chopped fresh flat leaf parsley
1 tbsp garlic, finely minced
pinch of crushed red pepper flakes

Fill a bowl with water and the lemon juice so you can prepare the artichokes. Trim each stem flush with the bottom and remove all the leaves to get to the heart. Pare off the dark green areas at the base. Half each heart and scoop out the choke with a paring knife. Put in the lemon water.
   Core the lettuce and slice the leaves across into 1/2" wide strips. Drain the artichokes and cut into thin slices.
   Make the gremolata topping by combining in a small bowl the lemon zest, chopped parsley, garic and red pepper flakes. Set aside.
   In a deep sauté pan over low heat, warm the olive oil. Add the artichoke slices and sauté, stirring, for 5 minutes. Add the fava beans, lettuce, parsley, basil and just enough stock to barely cover everything. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Raise heat to medium and sauté, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid has evaporated--maybe 10-12 minutes. After 5 minutes add the peas. In the end, the artichokes and peas should be tender.
   Remove the pan from the heat. Stir in the germolata and let the dish rest five minutes before serving.

Italian Fava Bean and Pasta Soup
This recipe often calls from teensy clumps of egg pasta known as frascarelli, which you have to make yourself. I have substituted two options: spaetzle, which is an egg pasta, and fregola, which is not. It's toasted though and that adds another dimension.

serves 4

1 large red onion 
2 carrots
6 celery stalks
3 garlic loves, chopped
2 dried chilies, minced or crumbled
1 1/2 lbs shelled fava beans (you'll need to buy about 3 lbs in the pod)
2 1/2 c strained tomatoes or tomato puree 
1/2 tsp dried sage
1 c spaetzle or fregola (if you use fregola par cook it 5 minutes in boiling water)
1/2 lb pecorino cheese
salt and pepper
Garnish: flat leaf parsley 

Dice the onion, carrot and celery. Sweat them with a pinch of salt in a heavy-bottomed saucepan--this means cook them on low heat and let the salt bring out their juices. If you are worried about burning, add 1 tbsp olive oil. Once the veggies have started to soften, add the garlic and chili. Cook on your lowest heat for 30 minutes, stirring from time to time to release its sweetness. Add the tomato puree and increase the heat to low/medium.

Cook for 8 minutes, then 8 cups of water. Reduce to simmer for 5 minutes. Add the pasta you chose. Simmer for 10 minutes, adding boiling water if it looks too thick. Serve immediately with grated cheese and freshly chopped flat leaf parsley.

Moroccan Fava Bean Soup
 serves 4

2 pounds fresh fava beans

2 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

2 leeks, white and light green parts only, cleaned and sliced

1 large onion, chopped

2 medium or large carrots, peeled and diced 2 medium turnips, peeled and diced

1 small potato (about 4 ounces), peeled and diced

2 quarts water, vegetable stock or chicken stock

Salt to taste

A bouquet garni made with a couple of sprigs of parsley, a bay leaf and several sprigs of cilantro

½ teaspoon ground white pepper

½ teaspoon turmeric

1 tsp ground cumin 

Garnish: cilantro leaves and optionally, mint leaves

Peel the favas. Bring a medium pot of salted water to a boil. Fill a bowl with ice water. Boil shelled fava beans 5 minutes, drain and transfer immediately to the cold water. Allow the beans to cool for several minutes, then slip off their skins by pinching off the eye of the skin and squeezing gently. Hold several beans in one hand and use your other thumb and forefinger to pinch off the eyes, have a bowl for the shelled favas close at hand and this will not take very long.

In a large, heavy soup pot or Dutch oven, heat 1 tbsp of olive oil on medium flame, and add leeks, onion, carrots and celery. Cook, stirring, until vegetables are just tender, about 5 minutes. Add turnips, potatoes, favas, water or stock, salt, cumin and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover and simmer 45 minutes, or until the vegetables are very tender. Remove and discard the bouquet garni.

Using a hand blender or a food mill, purée the soup, making sure that you place a towel over the top of the blender and remove the inner part of the lid to avoid hot splashes. Return to the pot, add the pepper, turmeric and chopped cilantro and bring to a simmer over medium-low heat. Turn the heat to low, cover and simmer, stirring often, for 30 minutes. Taste and adjust salt and pepper.

Serve in wide soup bowls, garnished with cilantro leaves/ optionally mint leaves and a drizzle of olive oil over each serving.

Nepali Fava Beans with Potatoes and Spices
serves 3-4
1 lb fava beans, shelled and skinned
4 medium boiling potatoes, cleaned
1/4 tsp salt
1/4 tsp turmeric
1/4 tsp cumin seed
1/4 tsp ground coriander
1/4 tsp ground chili powder
1/4 tsp garam masala or curry powder
2 tbsp mustard, corn or canola oil

Peel potatoes and cut them into large bite-sized pieces
In a medium saucepan, heat the oil over medium heat. Add cumin seeds and fry until they pop. Add fava beans and potatoes, salt and all spices but garam masala/curry powder. Stir to blend. Add about 1/4 c hot water and cook over low heat until potatoes and beans are tender. Add water if necessary along the way. When liquid has evaporated and potatoes are tender, remove from heat. Stir in the garam masala,curry powder, check salt and adjust if necessary. Serve with rice, paratha or naan.

Fava Mint Puree (aka "hummus") 

 

Serves 4
2 lb broad beans shelled
1/3 c chopped fresh mint leaves
1/2 c chopped flat leaf parsley
1/2 c olive oil
5 oz pecorino cheese grated
1 clove garlic peeled
salt and pepper

Boil the shelled beans in salted water until tender. Drain and allow to cool. Remove any thick coverings.  Put garlic and a pinch of salt in a mortar and pestle and pound to a paste. Continue pounding, adding the herbs little by little. Then add the beans and work until smooth. Transfer to a bowl, stir in olive oil and cheese. OR put everything in a food processor and whizz quickly to make a paste. Taste for salt and pepper and adjust.

Spring Fava and Mint with Feta and Fregola 
This is a cross between a risotto and pasta dish, a one-course meal
serves 3-4

1 c shelled fava beans
3 tbsp olive oil
1 shallot, minced
4 spring onions, diced as far up the green as you can go
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 tbsp chorizo, minced
1/4 c chopped fresh mint leaves
1 celery stalk, minced
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp ground cumin
pinch of ground cinnamon
1/4 lb fresh feta, crumbled
1 c chopped tomatoes (boxed is fine)
2 Medjool dates, pitted and chopped
2 tbsp freshly chopped dill
1 1/4 c fregola
3 c vegetable broth
Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Blanch the shelled fava beans in salted boiling water. Remove, drain and when cool slip the outer skins.
Bring the vegetable broth to boil in a medium pot and add the fregola. Cook about 8 minutes, until the fregola is al dente. Drain but retain the broth.
   While fregola is cooking, coat the bottom of a medium skillet with the olive oil and warm it on low heat. Add the chorizo, shallot, celery and garlic and sauté 3-5 minutes until everything is soft. Add the oregano, cumin, cinnamon and stir to blend. Add the tomatoes, fava beans, mint and dates. Continue cooking until the beans are tender and tomato is hot, maybe 5 minutes.
  Stir in the fregola and feta, salt and pepper. Add 1/4 c of the fregola cooking broth and stir. Cook until all liquid has evaporated, less then 5 minutes.  Stir in the dill, adjust salt and serve.

Simple Greek style Sautéed Fava Beans in Olive Oil
serves 4-6

3 lbs fava beans in pods
6 scallions, thinly sliced
2 garlic cloves, minced
1 c olive oil
Sea Salt and freshly ground black pepper
2-3 tbsp chopped fresh dill
Serve with thick yogurt

Shell the fava beans and quickly blanch them in boiling salted water. Drain, cool and slip the skins.
In a medium skillet or heavy gauge pot, heat the olive oil over low/medium. Add scallions and garlic and a lot of freshly ground black pepper. Sauté 1-2 minutes. Add beans, dill and salt to your taste. Add up to 1/4 c hot water--just enough to reach the beans in the pot. Cover and cook over low/medium heat until water has evaporated and beans are tender. Check for salt. Remove to a serving dish. Optionally, add a dollop of thick plain yogurt.

To make these Italian style, omit the yogurt and stir in 2 tbsp grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese.

Very Chic Peas: the little black dress of food

Any season, any time of day, chickpeas seal the meal. Almost every culture revels in recipes for garbanzos, pois chiche, ceci, nohut or kabuli chana (peas from Kabul). They are the little black dress of the kitchen: perfect with and for everything.

So let's honor chickpeas as a perfect transit vehicle from winter into spring and see how they can take us straight to summer. Let's honor chickpeas because they make all our fresh vegetables and meats livelier and tastier. And for the vegetarians/vegans among us, they are a reliable source of protein.

Here's 8 easy, yummy completely differing ways the world loves chickpeas. Not included are longtime favorite posted recipes for Greek Island Rice and Chickpea Soup with Feta or Palestinian Lamb with Chard and Chickpeas.

Arabic Roasted Eggplant stuffed with Chickpeas in Tomato Mint Sauce
This is an Arabic version of what we know as Moussaka. It's actually called Moussaq'a.
It's a great summer appetizer/mezze/tapa and also a great lunch served with whole wheat pita.
Photo is before dollops of yogurt were added.

10 servings

3 large eggplants, peeled and sliced lengthwise (about 1/2 inch thick)

1/4 cup and 2 tablespoons olive oil, plus extra for pans

1/4 cup peanut oil

1 med/lg onion, minced

6 garlic cloves, minced

1 28-ounce can diced tomatoes

1 tsp allspice

1 1/2 tsp cinnamon

1 tsp ground Aleppo pepper

1 tbsp + 1 tsp pomegranate molasses

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

1 15-oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed (about 1 cup)

1/2 cup pine nuts, toasted

1 tbsp minced fresh parsley

2 tbsp fresh mint leaves, finely chopped

Whole mint leaves for garnish

Thick yogurt for serving

Heat oven to 450º and lightly oil two baking sheets or use nonstick ones. Combine the 1/4 cup olive oil and peanut oil. Brush eggplant slices on both sides with the mixture, then place on pans. Roast, flipping once, until golden brown on both sides, about 15 minutes total. Set aside.

chickpea filling

In a large skillet, heat the 2 tbsp olive oil over medium heat. Add onion and garlic, and cook, stirring occasionally, until soft and translucent, about 10 minutes. Add tomatoes, spices and molasses. Bring to a simmer. Add salt and pepper to taste. Simmer until slightly thickened, about 15 minutes. Add chickpeas and cook until thick, 5 to 10 minutes more. Stir in half the pine nuts, parsley and chopped mint. Set aside to cool.

.

To serve: place a slice of eggplant on a platter and spoon tomato-chickpea mixture onto the wide end of the slice. Fold the narrower end of the slice over to cover the filling and place a mint leaf on top. Repeat with remaining slices and garnish with remaining pine nuts. Top each roll with a dollop of thick yogurt and serve cold or at room temperature.

Spanish Chickpea Salad
perfect anytime of year

Serves 6

   

12oz can chickpeas, drained and rinsed several times

½ small/med red onion, peeled and finely diced (1/2 cup)

1/4 cup fresh basil leaves, minced (about 8 leaves)

1/4 cup fresh flat leaf parsley, leaves only, minced

juice of one lemon

1/3 cup olive oil

¼ cup grated Parmigiano cheese (you want thin stringlike shreds)

5 lg pimento stuffed green olives, thinly sliced

1 med/lg garlic clove, peeled and minced

¼ tsp dried oregano leaves

Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Once the chickpeas have been thoroughly rinsed and are totally dry,

Combine all ingredients. Chill overnight and serve.

  

Armenian Lamb Shanks with Chickpeas

Perfect spring fling. I recently posted this in my Easter parade of recipes for lamb.

 serves 4
olive oil to coat your pan
4 lamb shanks, trimmed of fat and gristle
4 lg tomatoes, peeled and chopped
2 medium red onions, chopped
4 garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp dried rosemary
1/2 tsp dried oregano
1/2 tsp paprika
1/8 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground cayenne or chili pepper
4 c heated vegetable broth, or water
1 20-oz can chickpeas (2 c), rinsed and drained

Preheat oven to 450º. Coat the bottom or a large roasting pan lightly with olive oil. Cover with lamb shanks and roll them to coat in the oil. Roast 30 minutes, turning halfway so they brown evenly. Remove pan from oven and reduce heat to 400º. Cover the lamb with the tomatoes and onions. Add the garlic, herbs, spices plus salt and pepper to your taste. Pour the hot broth or water around the meat. Cover the pan and return to the oven. Roast 1 1/2 hours.
   Uncover, stir and add chickpeas, stirring them into the sauce, and roast another 20-25 minutes. By now the lamb should be close to falling off the shank bone. If not, keep roasting.
Serve garnished with chopped flat leaf parsley and flat bread to mop up the yummy sauce.

Chunky Squash Soup with Chickpeas

 serves 4-6

1 butternut squash, peeled and diced, reserving the seeds*

1 tbsp cumin seeds

1 dried red chili, crumbled

2-3 tbsp olive oil

2 sticks celery, trimmed and finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, peeled and finely chopped

a few sprigs of fresh flat-leaf parsley, leaves picked and chopped, stalks finely chopped

2 small red onions, peeled and finely chopped

6 c organic chicken or vegetable stock

2 cans (13/5-14 oz) chickpeas, drained

1/3 c ground/finely chopped almonds

½ tbsp. fennel seeds

½ tbsp sesame seeds

½ tbsp poppy seeds

     sea salt

freshly ground black pepper

2 lemons, zest of

a few sprigs of fresh mint, leaves picked and chopped

harissa paste or hot sauce

extra virgin olive oil

*if you don’t have squash seeds, use ½ cup packaged pumpkin seeds

Preheat your oven to 400°F. Place the squash, cumin and crumbled chili on to a baking tray. Drizzle with olive oil, mix together and place in the preheated oven. Roast for 45 minutes until the squash is tender.

Once the squash is roasted, heat a large saucepan and pour in 2 tbsp olive oil. Add celery, garlic, parsley stalks and two-thirds of the onion. Cook gently with a lid on until the veggies are soft, about 5-8 minutes. Add the roasted squash and let it sweat for a few minutes, then pour in the stock. Bring to the boil, turn down the heat and simmer for 15 minutes.

Add the chickpeas and simmer for 15 minutes more. Meanwhile, in 2 tsp olive oil, toast the squash/pumpkin seeds with the ground almonds, fennel, sesame and poppy seeds until they are nicely browned all over.

Season the soup well with salt and pepper.  If you have a hand-held blender, whiz the for a few seconds so it thickens, but there are still some chunky bits. If you don’t have one, pour about 2/3 of the soup into  a food processor and whiz a few rounds. Pour it back into the pot and blend.  Keep the soup on simmer. Mix together the lemon zest, chopped parsley leaves and mint leaves. Chop the remaining onion until it’s really fine, then mix into the zesty mixture.

To serve, spoon ½ tsp harissa paste or hot sauce into each bowl. Divide the zesty herb mixture between the bowls. Ladle in the soup and stir each bowl once with a spoon to blend everything. Sprinkle on top the toasted seeds and almonds, and finish with a drizzle of really fruity olive oil.  Serve this with toasted pita, naan or lavash and perhaps a cheese platter.

 NOTE: if you use vegetable stock, this soup is vegan and gluten-free.

 Omani Qabooli: Rice pilaf with chicken and chickpeas 

3 cups rice 1 chicken (medium) ½ cup raisin (washed and plumped) ½ cup cooked chickpeas 1 Cinnamon stick

4 green cardamom pods, lightly crushed 3 cloves

5 whole black pepper corns

pinch of saffron dissolved in 1 tbsp rose water
¼ cup ghee
Salt to taste

Wash, then soak the rice in salted water.
Clean the chicken and cut into pieces.
Boil chicken in 8 cups of water with the spices and salt, removing froth as it appears. Cook until chicken is tender. Remove chicken, strain broth and return to the heat. Add enough water to have eight cups again and bring to boil. Add the rice and cook it halfway, about 8 minutes. Drain.
In a large skillet coated with the ghee, sauté chickpeas and raisin over medium heat until soft and slightly brown. Remove and keep aside. Place the chicken pieces in the same cooking pot to brown. If it sticks, add a bit more ghee or oil. Add boiled rice. Sprinkle with saffron rose water. Stir in chickpeas and raisins.
Simmer 15 minutes and serve.

Roasted Mexican Spiced Garbanzos
 

Make sure the chickpeas are completely dry after draining and rinsing them.

1 15-ounce can of chickpeas (garbanzo beans)
1 tablespoon olive oil
1/2 teaspoon sea salt
1 tsp dried oregano 

1 tsp chili powder

1/2 tsp ground cumin

Preheat oven to 400°F.

Drain and rinse chickpeas in a colander. Pat dry.

Toss chickpeas in a medium-sized bowl with olive oil, sea salt, and spices.

Arrange chickpeas on a baking sheet in a single layer.

Bake for approximately 30 minutes or until crispy. While baking, shake pan or stir chickpeas to avoid burning.

 
Turkish Baked Hummus
winter into spring

Serves 4- 6

1 15oz can chickpeas, drained well

1/2 c olive oil

juice of 2 lemons

4 garlic cloves

2 tsp cumin seeds crushed or 1 1/2 tsp ground cumin

3 tbsp tahini (sesame paste)

1/3 c thick plain yogurt

3 tbsp pine nuts

3 tbsp unsalted butter or ghee

2 tsp ground Aleppo or chipotle pepper or Hungarian paprika or 1 tsp smoked Spanish paprika

salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Heat oven to 400º.

In a food processor or large mortar and pestle combine the chickpeas, olive oil, lemon juice, garlic and cumin into a paste. Beat in the tahini, then the yogurt and make the mixture into a light, smooth purée. Add salt and pepper to your taste.

Spoon the purée into an ovenproof earthenware dish about 7" in diameter, level and smooth the top with the back of the spoon.

In a small frying pan, dry toast the pine nuts on medium heat until they are golden. Lower heat and add the butter/ghee. When it melts add the ground pepper or paprika and quickly stir everything together. Pour this over the hummus.

Bake about 20-25 minutes, until it has risen slightly and the butter has been absorbed.  Serve immediately with a dollop of garlic mint yogurt for every wedge.

Okra Chickpea Bake (from Yotam Ottolenghi)

Serve with crusty bread or rice, to soak up the tasty juices. Serves six.

120ml olive oil
3 shallots, peeled and finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
2 red chilies, finely chopped
1½ tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1 tbsp tomato paste
18 oz cooked chickpeas (canned will do), drained
32 oz canned hopped tomatoes
2 tsp sugar
Shaved skin of 1 lemon
Salt and black pepper
1 1/3 lbs okra, stems trimmed without exposing the seeds
1 tsp dried oregano
1/2 lb feta, broken into pieces
1 tbsp picked flat-leaf parsley, very finely chopped
Zest of 1 lemon, plus 1½ tbsp juice
 
Heat the oven to 350º. Pour two tablespoons of oil into a large saute pan on a medium-high heat. Add shallots, saute 3 minutes, stirring regularly, then add garlic, chilies and cumin seeds. Cook another minute, then add tomato paste and cook a minute, stirring. Stir in the chickpeas, tomatoes, sugar, shaved lemon skin, a teaspoon of salt and a good grind of black pepper. Add 1 3/4 c water, stir, reduce heat to low, cover and leave to bubble gently for 20 minutes.
      Meanwhile, put the okra in a large bowl with three tbsp of oil and 1/4 tsp of salt. Put a large saute pan on a high heat, add half the okra and sear for six minutes, turning regularly, until lightly charred all over. Remove from the pan, repeat with the remaining batch and then, once all the okra is seared, add it and the oregano to the chickpea pan. Stir gently, tip into a large 20cm x 30cm gratin dish and dot with the feta, submerging the cheese in the tomato juices. Bake for 15-20 minutes, until bubbling, then remove; leave to rest for 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, in a small bowl mix the parsley, lemon zest and juice, the remaining three tbsp of oil and a pinch of salt. Spoon this over the baked okra and serve.

It's Easter So I'm Egging You On

More than lamb, the egg is the symbolic food of Easter, celebration of Spring, i.e. new birth. We hunt eggs, dye eggs, fill plastic ones and eat them in every conceivable form. Slavic cultures probably go wildest with their babkas and egg shaped cakes filled with whole eggs to double down on the message. Jewish Passover requires dipping hard boiled eggs into salted water to symbolize the bitterness of life. Lots of meaning, lots of eggs. So here are eight ways the world loves eggs, all excellent to serve for breakfast, brunch, supper or midnight snack on Easter. (with apologies for the way this blog looks: Blogger is a dastardly platform that refused to work right. It just keeps making changes of its own, for the worst.)

My Smoked Salmon Stuffed Eggs

This is for 4 but you can double it
4 hard boiled eggs
2 scallions, minced
1 tbsp chopped fresh chives
1 heaping tsp capers, carefully drained
 1 1/2 slices smoked salmon, cut into tiny bits
1/3 tsp prepared white horseradish
1 heaping tbsp chopped fresh dill
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1-2 tbsp creme fraiche, sour cream or whipped cream cheese

Slice the eggs in half lengthwise and carefully remove the yolks. Put these in a medium size bowl. Add everything else but the final creme fraiche/sour cream/whipped cream cheese, and blend well with a fork to mash the yolks. Add enough creme fraiche/sour cream/whipped cream cheese to totally bind everything into a thick paste. Carefully fill the egg white holes with this paste and spread some over the edges so the top of the egg is completely covered by the yellow mixture. To serve, sprinkle on more fresh chopped fill or chive flowers, salmon roe caviar or drained capers.  

Migas: Spanish scrambled eggs with yesterday's bread

Serves 4
1 medium loaf of stale white bread (around 2-3 days old)
Extra virgin olive oil
4 garlic cloves, crushed with the skin on
1/2 lb morcilla, chorizo or pancetta, cubed
4 shallots, finely chopped
2 tsp smoked paprika
A small bunch of parsley, chopped

1/4 c sultanas, soaked (either overnight or 2-3 hours before) in sherry
2 tbsp hazelnuts, toasted and crushed
1 tbsp pine nuts, toasted
8 large eggs
Lardo (optional), thinly sliced, to serve
Salt and black pepper

Remove the bread crusts. Cut it into 2cm cubes. Sprinkle with water to make damp. Keep aside in a Tupperware box or in a bowl with a damp tea towel over it until needed.Put a sauté pan on a medium and cover the bottom with extra virgin olive oil. When warm add the garlic. When the garlic is halfway to caramelized, add the morcilla, chorizo or pancetta and cook 2 minutes until the fat is released. Lower heat and add the bread.Toss steadily 4-5 minutes. BUT after 2 minutes, add the shallots and smoked paprika. Add the chopped parsley, sultanas, hazelnuts and pine nuts and stir well. Cook just until the bread is crispy on the outside but still moist and chewy inside. Do not make croutons. Immediately divide the bread mix among four plates.

In the same pan, fry the eggs, making sure they’re crispy on the outside (with a skirt) and runny in the middle. Place two each on top of the plated bread mixture. If you have lardo, place a slice or two on top of the eggs so that it melts. Season and serve.

Persian Parsley Omelets
This recipe is from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking.Makes 15 2-3” “pancake” omelets 
1 lg bunch fresh flat leaf parsley, cleaned 
2 lg garlic cloves, peeled 
¼ tsp fresh cracked or ground black pepper 
6-7 scallions, cleaned 
6 eggs 
¼ tsp salt 
3 tbsp olive oil

Put parsley, garlic, pepper and scallions in the bowl of a food processor and chop. Or chop each individually, mincing the garlic, and combine. Whisk the eggs in a large bowl and blend in salt. Whisk in the parsley mixture.

Heat a large flat skillet over medium heat and coat with 1 tbsp olive oil. When oil is hot, put in 2 tbsp of egg mixture as though making a pancake. Scrap the ooze to try to keep a reasonably round shape 2-3 inches in diameter. Do this again 2 or 3 times until the skillet is full but there is space between the omelets. Cook until the edges start to brown and flip. Cook another minute and remove from heat. Continue making omelets until the egg mixture runs out.  Serve these warm or at room temperature. They are delicious wrapped in lavash with a dollop of sour cream or yogurt and thinly sliced cucumber.


Spanish Tortilla: a pancake of eggs, potatoes and onion 
from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking
Serves 4-5
2 tbsp olive oil (extra if your pan is large) 
4 round potatoes about 2” in diameter 
1 med onion, peeled and diced 
1 tsp salt 
5 eggs

Cut potatoes in half, then cut the halves in half again, and cut each into uniformly thin slices. Heat a frying or sauté pan on medium high. When it’s hot, coat the bottom with olive oil and heat until it is almost smoky. Cut heat to low and add potatoes, stir frying to coat them with the oil. Continue to sauté potatoes 3-5 minutes until they are soft, then cover the pot and continue cooking until they just start to brown, about 5 minutes. (Fresh or new potatoes will cook faster.) Add onion and salt. Cover the pot and continue to cook on low until onions are soft, 10-12 minutes.

Meanwhile beat eggs in a medium or large bowl. Have ready a flat plate as large as the pan you are cooking in, at least as large as the tortilla will be. When the onions and potatoes are soft and golden, pour contents of the pan into the scrambled eggs and blend.

Return the emptied pan to the stove and raise heat to high. If there are not still have droplets of oil all over the bottom, add a tsp of olive oil and heat it. When pan and oil are very hot, cut heat to low and pour in the egg mixture. Spread and level it. Cover the pan and cook on low 3-5 minutes, or until the bottom half of the tortilla is firm.

Put a large plate over the top of the tortilla, remove the pan from the heat and flip it so the tortilla lands on the plate. The cooked side will be up. Slide the tortilla back into the pan with the cooked side up. Cover the pan, return to low heat and continue cooking another 3-4 minutes until the entire tortilla is firm. Immediately invert the tortilla onto a serving plate. Cut into wedges and serve warm. Served with grilled artichokes and zucchini in Romesco sauce for a memorable Spanish meal.

Chinese Tea Eggs
This recipe is from How to Fix A Leek and Other Food From Your Farmers' Market

6 extra large or jumbo eggs 
3 tbsp soy sauce
2 star anise
2 tbsp leaves or 2 bags of strong black tea like Russian Caravan or Labsang Souchong or best quality Darjeeling
1 cinnamon stick
1 tsp sugar

In a large saucepan, cover the eggs by 2” with water, bring to a boil, reduce heat to low and boil 3 minutes. Remove eggs from pan but do not discard water. When eggs are cool enough to handle, with the back of a teaspoon, gently tap the shells to delicately crack them all over while still keeping them intact. Return eggs to the water, and add the other ingredients. Bring to a boil and immediately reduce heat to simmer. Cover and simmer 40 minutes, turn off heat and let eggs steep for 4 hours. Remove shells and serve whole to show off the marbling.

Menemen: Turkish scrambled eggs with tomatoes and peppers

serves 4

8 eggs
6 medium/large tomatoes, peeled and chopped into small chunks--or 2 c boxed chopped
2 Anaheim/Fresno/ Hungarian hot wax or other medium hot peppers cut into small chunks
2 green bell peppers, diced
2 onions, sliced into thin disks that are halved then halved again
1 tsp dried oregano
1/4 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp ground Aleppo or ancho pepper
1/2c olive oil
Salt and pepper to taste

Beat the eggs in a bowl and add a little salt and pepper
Warm the olive oil in a large pan, then lightly fry the onions and peppers without browning for 2 minutes. Add the tomatoes and spices. Cook until all veggies are soft--around 7-8 minutes, and the juice reduced by about half.
Pour in the eggs and stir continually until they begin to firm. Season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. When eggs are firm, immediately remove from heat before they dry out. Serve immediately with fresh flat bread.


Shakshuka: poached eggs in spicy tomato sauce from Tunisia originally

I've published this on the blog before but this dish is always in season.

Serves 4

3 tbsp fruity olive oil
3 lg garlic cloves, minced
1 lg red onion, diced
1 med green bell pepper, seeded and chunked
1 sm yellow bell pepper, seeded and chunked
1-2 hot chili peppers like Serrano or real jalapeno, seeded and minced
2 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp caraway seeds, smashed or ground
1-2 tsp smoked paprika
¼ tsp dried mint leaves
¼ tsp turmeric
¼ tsp ground cayenne or arbol chili powder
pinch ground cinnamon
1 tsp wine/balsamic vinegar
½ tsp honey
1 tsp tomato paste
2-3 cups chopped tomatoes in their juice
salt
black pepper to taste
8 eggs
1 bunch fresh cilantro, stemmed, washed and chopped for garnish
optional add ons: feta cheese, pitted black kalamata olives, chopped spinach

        In a large heavy-gauge sauté pan that has a lid, heat olive oil. Sauté onions, bell and chili peppers and garlic over medium heat til soft, about 5 minutes.  Add the spices—cumin through cinnamon—and heat until fragrant, maybe 60-90 seconds.

       Stir in vinegar, tomato paste, honey and tomatoes.  Season with salt and pepper.

Cook until the sauce thickens, maybe 10-12 minutes depending on how juicy the tomatoes were.  Taste for flavor and add seasonings to your taste.

        Get the sauce very hot and bubbly over medium heat and have the pan lid handy.  Carefully create 8 small pockets in the sauce and crack an egg into each one. Try to nudge a little sauce into the eggwhites.  Cover and continue cooking to poach the eggs to your liking.

        Uncover the pan. Add the optionals you desire. Let them heat up 1 minute. Remove pan from heat. Garnish with chopped cilantro and serve right out of the pan.

Shakshuka variation: poached eggs with chickpeas and Pernod/Ouzo/Ara  
serves 6
3 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 large carrot, peeled and roughly chopped
2 fennel bulbs, trimmed and roughly chopped
2 tbsp harissa
1 15 oz can chickpeas, drained
1 tsp cumin seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
2 tsp fennel seeds, toasted and lightly crushed
1/3-1/2 c Pernod, Ouzo or Arak
1 15/16 oz box chopped tomatoes
2 1/2 c vegetable broth
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
6 eggs
1/4 lb soft goat’s cheese, broken into roughly 2cm pieces
2 tsp fresh dill, roughly chopped

 

On a medium-high flame, heat the oil in a large sauté pan for which you have a lid. Fry onion, carrot and fennel about 15 minutes, stirring a few times, until soft and golden brown. Add the harissa, chickpeas and spices, stir through for a minute, then add the Pernod. Let it bubble for 30 seconds, then stir in the tomatoes, stock and a half-teaspoon of salt. Return to a boil, turn the heat to medium and continue to cook for 25-30 minutes, stirring a few times and crushing some of the chickpeas, until the sauce is thick and rich.

        Take off the heat, make six indentations in the mix, then crack an egg into each gap. Sprinkle the eggs with a generous pinch of salt, dot the goat’s cheese around and about, then cover and return to the heat for five to six minutes, until the egg whites are set and the yolks still runny. Remove from the heat, sprinkle with dill and serve.

 

Scotch Eggs: hardboiled and rolled in sausage
for 4 and baked instead of deep fried

4 large hard boiled eggs, peeled
1 lb ground pork sausage
1 sm onion, minced
salt to your taste
1 egg beaten
3 tbsp white flour
3/4 c panko breadcrumbs or crushed Cornflakes

Heat oven to 400º.  In a large bowl, combine pork, onion and salt. Shape mixture into 4 flat patties. Wrap each around an egg trying to cover it entirely. Then roll the covered egg in flour. Roll it next in the beaten egg and finally in the bread or Cornflake crumbs, covering completely.  Put on an ungreased cookie sheet. Bake at 400º 35 minutes or until sausage is thoroughly cooked where it meets the egg.

And if none of this is good enough, you can always make a fritatta.

 Happy Easter, happy eats.