Saturday, October 12, 2019

Farmacy: the medicine in your kitchen

 As we hurtle into sickness season, here are a few reminders of the remedies you have in the kitchen. In other words, these foods work as medicine.  As long as humans have been around, food has been the go-to for cures and since much medicine is still based on substances derived from food plants, you might as well stick with the source.  

What follows is the food wisdom people have passed down for generations. It is not FDA approved and all that jazz.

Garlic
The reason it makes your breath smell is because garlic never reaches the stomach. It goes straight into your lungs where the sulfur in it that emits those strong odors goes to work killing bacteria and viruses. In ancient times garlic was considered "killer of demons". 

Ginger
A very old remedy for nausea. That's why even back in the '50s hospitals gave post op patients ginger ale.

Cardamom
Chewed, the seeds in the whole pods give off a camphor burst that can help clear sinuses. Not as powerful as horseradish but a daily dose of a pod or two can help.   

Bitter foods like arugula, broccoli rabe, dandelion greens, bitter melon, cranberries and artichokes to name a few can help open sinuses if you eat a decent amount every few days. There seems to be a connection between bitter food on the tongue and sinuses.

Honey is an antibiotic.  So a teaspoon of it can help with a sore throat.  It can also help if you cut yourself in the kitchen and can't find an antiseptic fast enough. I recently rubbed it on a troubled gum.

Prunes are the traditional and still best remedy for constipation or anything close to it. 

Yogurt--it has to be natural without lots of sugar and say on the
package "contains live cultures" -- is probably the oldest known wonder medicine for an upset stomach, diarrhea and an irritable bowel.  It is also a must for anyone taking an antibiotic because it     restores the good bacteria those pills indiscriminately wipe out.  Another yogurt trick: when you go abroad anywhere  try to eat some locally made plain yogurt as soon as you can. This introduces the local bacteria safely into your system to ward of nasty bouts of "tourista" and "Delhi belly."

Edamame. miso and tofu along with broccoli are estrogen rich enough to  sustain a basic level of the hormone after menopause. They can also ease some symptoms of menopause.  One healthy serving of each one once a week does it.                   
                
Seaweed provides iodine that can help jog a sluggish thyroid. 


 Dark chocolate, bananas and cooked rice can stop up or slow down loose bowels.  


Sauerkraut, pickles, kombucha and other fermented foods can help balance gut bacteria, especially if you're taking antibiotics or recovering from diarrhea. 
 




Turmeric has antibiotic properties.  In South Asia it's often rubbed on the skin of raw chicken to kill any bad bacteria on it.  It's also an anti-flatulent, which is why in South Asia it's always included in bean recipes.  

Ajwain seeds have been dispensed by grandmas in India for centuries to dispel a slightly upset stomach or the bad breath it induces or just as an aid to digesting a heavy meal.    

Cranberries and possibly blueberries are known to be acidic enough to kill bacteria that cause urinary tract infections. But you have to swallow the whole bitter cranberry either raw or juiced with nothing added except maybe some water or a squirt of lime. (Lime is a powerful killer of bacteria too: think ceviche.)  

Walnuts are used in Chinese medicine to restore chi, or energy. It's thought a handful eaten raw will energize the kidney, storehouse of the body's chi, or life force.  Eating a few on a winter salad does the same trick.                     



                   




           


Thursday, October 10, 2019

Fennel Continued

 A few more thoughts for relatively unknown fennel before we go full tilt into more familiar root vegetables.
Haddock with Olives, Fennel and Chili
Many Mediterranean cultures chop fennel into their fish stews. Here it is packed with fish fillets in paper packets with Moroccan flavor. The recipe is quick and easy. You can fill out the meal with roasted baby potatoes or couscous and a leafy green salad.

  serves 4
1-2 tbsp olive oil plus more to drizzle
1 sm red onion, peeled, sliced into thin disks then halved
1 lg fennel bulb, fronds off, washed, cored and chopped
     4 garlic cloves, peeled and sliced thin
    1 red chili pepper, seeded and sliced very thin
    1 doz green olives, pitted
    1 doz cherry tomatoes or 4 med tomatoes, cherries halved, medium chunked into bite sized pieces
 1  lemon, skin cut into thin strips  and 1 tbsp juice saved
  4  6 oz haddock fillets 
 4 tsp sherry vinegar or white wine vinegar or rice wine vinegar  
   1 tsp dried oregano
Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste  
   1 handful flat leaf parsley, finely chopped

Heat oven to 350º .        

Cut four 1' square pieces of parchment paper and four slightly larger pieces of aluminum foil. 
  Coat the bottom of a sm/med sauté or frying pan with olive oil and heat over medium. Add onion, fennel, garlic and chili pepper and sauté on med/low heat until the fennel is soft, 8-10 minutes. Divide this mix evenly among the four squares of baking paper then top with the olives, tomatoes, lemon peel and sprinkle the lemon juice over all four as evenly as you can. Season lightly with salt and pepper. 
Lay one haddock fillet atop each packet and drizzle a tiny bit of olive oil over it. Put 1 tsp vinegar on each fillet. Season each with salt, pepper and the oregano. Now fold the baking paper and foil over the fish to enclose it and fold over the sides, tucking them underneath. Leave some room inside for the food to steam; don't wrap very tight. Put  the packets fold side down on a baking sheet, pressing lightly so the bottom stays shut. 
Bake 15 minutes at 350º. Remove from oven and put each packet on a plate. Open them slowly so the contents come out on the plate. You can flip to have the fish on the bottom or keep it on top.  Garnish with fresh parsley and serve while hot.                                                       
          




Braised fennel with olives  

This Mediterranean recipe is simple      and lovely as a side dish. It's vegan too.
serves 4-6
slightly less than 1 c olive oil (200 ml)
4 fennel bulbs, without fronds, cut into wedges
5 garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
 1 lemon, zest in thinnest strips
1/2 bottle dry white wine
Salt and freshly ground black pepper 
1 sm bunch fresh thyme or 2 tsp dried thyme leaves 
4 bay leaves
12 black olives

Heat oven to 350º.
In a large, deep frying pan, heat the oil. Put in the fennel wedges in a single layer  and sauté, stirring occasionally until they are lightly browned. Add garlic cloves and lemon zest and continue cooking another 4 minutes.  Add wine, salt and pepper. Bring to a boil and boil 2-3 minutes. Add thyme, bay leaves and scatter the olives over it all.

Transfer the contents of the frying pan to a large baking dish. Season with salt and pepper, cover with foil and bake 45 minutes. The fennel should be very tender. Remove the bay leaves. Garnish with finely chopped fennel fronds if you wish.      

Creamed fennel with pine nuts
 
not my photo
This is a British treatment of the bulb from Nigel Slater: with heavy cream and breadcrumbs that make crunch.

 serves 4  

4 fennel bulbs, fronds off, core removed.
2-3 tbsp olive oil plus some to drizzle
1 c heavy cream
1/4 c torn pieces of fresh bread (fat crumbs)
2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, chopped
1 orange, zest only, grated
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1/4 c pine nuts 

 Heat oven to 400º.
Slice the fennel into very thin strips. (Thinner is faster to cook.)  
Coat the bottom of a large frying pan with olive oil and warm over medium heat. Add as much fennel as fits in the pan and sauté until they are soft and golden, adding pieces as you go if you have to. Remove from heat and stir in the heavy cream.

In a food processor, combine the torn bread, parsley, orange zest, salt, pepper and pine nuts. Process into a rough crumb mixture. Scatter this  all over the creamed fennel. Bake 20-25 minutes until the cream bubbles around the edges and the fennel is very soft.  
OPTIONALLY; garnish with chopped fennel fronds and/or toasted pine nuts.   

Fennel carrot and pistachio salad

 This is very colorful, crunchy and easy to make.
serves 4

1 lg fennel bulb, cored and chopped 
6 sm carrots, peeled and sliced on the diagonal into thin disks (if you have some green tops, hold on to them for the finale)
1 red onion, peeled, sliced into thin disks that are halved into half moon strips
1/3 c pistachio nuts, roasted and shelled  
2 tbsp fennel fronds, finely chopped
2 tbsp flat leaf parsley, finely chopped
 1/4 tsp fennel seed
 salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste  
 2 tbsp fresh lemon  juice
 5 tbsp  good quality olive oil 
optional: 2 tbsp carrot greens, finely chopped 

 Combine everything but the lemon juice and olive oil in your serving bowl (med/lg) and blend well.  Whisk together the lemon juice and olive oil and slowly dress the salad, turning the veggies so everything is covered.

                


Monday, October 7, 2019

Fennel: icon of autumn

Fennel is the pride of the Italian table.  The autumn bulb redolent of licorice is chopped raw into salads, roasted in olive oil and cheese, tossed into seafood stews, even turned into dumplings. The plant's  seeds flavor breads and pastries, the wild flowers yellowing on hillsides in September flavor into lip smacking pasta sauces.  Fall is fennel time.

There are two kinds of bulbs: a flatter one and a rounder more bulbous one.  The latter is generally considered superior in recipes. The bulb is best used as close to its harvest as possible because it  begins losing its hints of licorice as soon as it's pulled from the ground.  To deal with those intimidating masses of fronds, chop them off so you can deploy the fennel bulb as you wish. You can now use some of these judiciously to jolt salads or you can turn them into a kind of pesto sauce for pasta. I'm working through ideas on how to do that, making slow progress on a cream sauce I had in Sardinia using the wild flowers.  

 But don't wait for me. Try these bright recipes now.                                                  
Salads
Here are a few of the many tricks that turn raw fennel into a very tasty and colorful salad.  
Fennel Orzo Salad 
This is an old favorite, great for kids.

Serves 4-6 depending on how much you like it.

2 fennel bulbs, cleaned and chopped, greens too
1 2/3 cups orzo (about ½ lb)
3 seedless mandarins, or clementines, peeled and pulled apart
1 lemon
½ lime
16-20 pitted prunes, coarsely chopped
3-4 tbsp olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
salt to your taste

Put a few of the fennel fronts aside to chop for garnish.
Cook the orzo according to package instructions, until just al dente.

Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a small skillet and sauté the chopped fennel 4-5 minutes. Midway, add the garlic and blend. Pour the contents of the skillet into a salad bowl.  Add the mandarins and prunes and blend.

Remove the zest from half the lemon and dice it. Add to the salad.
Juice the lemon and lime, mix and add to the salad.

Drain the orzo. Salt them to your taste. Add to the salad
Stir to blend everything.

Chop the reserved fennel fronds and top the salad.
Refrigerate an hour before serving.

Fennel, Black Olive and Orange Salad
Some call the traditional pairing of fennel with oranges Venetian salad. I think of the orange and black olives as perfect for Halloween. Whatever you think, know its refreshing tang makes it an ideal salad next to that Thanksgiving turkey.

Serves 4
2 fennel bulbs  
1 lg orange
½ c (4 oz) black olives*
Extra virgin olive oil;
Sea salt, best quality
*pitted are less dangerous but also a bit less tasty 
NOTE: some people add a bit of chopped fresh mint to this.   

Finely slice the fennel and wash the orange. Peel them. Cut either into thin rings or break into sections. Clean the fennel bulbs and cut them horizontally into thin disks. They will fall apart, no problem. In a medium serving bowl, mix the sliced fennel, oranges and black olives Season with salt and olive oil and optional mint. Serve.

Fennel Arugula Salad
not my photo
You can't help but notice the totally Italian ingredients in this salad, a reminder of how totally Italian fennel is. Some nonconformists add sliced apples or pears to this.

2 fennel bulbs
2 cups arugula, washed and dried
1 lemon, juiced
 raw milk reggiano parmigiano cheese (you want the best)                       
Extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground pepper

Loosely arrange the arugula on the bottom of a shallow salad bowl, and then add some ground pepper and drizzle some olive oil on top.
Cut off the stems and leafy tops of the fennel, then finely slice the fennel into thin rounds and spread the slices over the arugula.
Pour the lemon juice over the fennel and arugula and drizzle with more olive oil and grind more pepper on top.
Shave the parmigiano with a potato peeler and cover the salad with the cheese, then serve.

Buttery Braised Fennel
This is about as easy as cooking fennel gets.

serves 4

4-5 small fennel bulbs               
3 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan cheese
5 tbsp unsalted butter                
Salt & freshly ground pepper to your taste

Cut bulbs lengthwise into ½” slices. Put these with butter into a large, wide pot with enough water just to cover. 

Cook over medium heat 30-40 minutes until fennel has softened. (Add ¼ cup of water if the pot runs dry.) The goal is no liquid left on glossy, golden fennel. Season to taste with salt and pepper and add the grated cheese. Blend and serve while hot. Goes well with roasted meat. 

"French fried" Fennel
Italians often slice the bulb lengthwise, boil the slices in salted water 8 mins, drain them well, dry them and dip them first in egg, then breadcrumbs, and deep fry, serving with sea salt.


          




Florentine Fennel with Parmesan
Serves 4-6
4 large fennel bulbs,  trimmed, outer leaves picked
Butter, for greasing, plus a little extra
4 tbsp breadcrumbs
4 tbsp grated parmesan


 Heat the oven to 350º. 
Slice the fennel bulbs in half lengthwise. Plunge them into a saucepan of boiling salted water and cook for 7-10 minutes. When tender to the point of a skewer, drain them.

Arrange the fennel halves, cut-side down, in a buttered gratin dish or individual dishes. Strew the breadcrumbs over them, then the grated parmesan, and finally dot with the knobs of butter. Put the gratin dish in the oven for 10-15 minutes until the cheese and breadcrumbs are pale gold and bubbling.  

 NOTE: This is part one. Next up will be all sorts of cooked fennel recipes including fish with fennel and chili, creamed fennel with pine nuts, a cooked and raw fennel/carrot salad and braised fennel with celeriac.    



Saturday, October 5, 2019

Farm to Freezer: savoring summer in February

Today's colorful abundance won't last long.  Its glory reminds us winter is coming; pickings will get slim. And that's probably why we  are so tempted right now to grab it all and go. Overdoing it is the moment's theme, and it easily crescendos to overwhelming.

Well, one way to handle that abundance, to have it all, is to process it for the freezer.  Some vegetables accommodate nicely to having their life prolonged that way, notably tomatoes, peppers and corn.  (Note: garlic loses its flavor when frozen so you have to renew it with fresh when you reheat whatever you put it in.)        

I've posted some of these recipes before but they're here again because they're treasures whose worth never diminishes.      

Red pepper sauce
This is one of the reach for recipes I post again and again. Those red bell peppers in profusion right now are storehouses of all the vitamin C and A you want in winter.   And the color they bring to a February table!   Plus this tasty sauce has many ways to light up your life: on pasta, on burgers or steak or roast lamb or pork chops, on roasted cauliflower, on scrambled eggs, on pizza with goat cheese... . 


2 tbsp olive oil                          
3 lg/4 sml red bell peppers, seeded
4 garlic cloves, sliced               
1 mildly hot pepper
½ tsp dried oregano                 
2 tbsp fresh basil OR coriander (your taste)
1 tbsp wine vinegar                  
1/8 tsp salt

Slice red peppers into thin strips. Dice hot pepper. Chop the herb. Heat oil in a medium skillet over medium heat. Add bell peppers, garlic and oregano. Sauté 15 minutes on medium low heat. Stir in vinegar, hot pepper and salt. Sauté 10 minutes. Stir in the herb. Simmer 5 minutes. Purée in a blender or processor.


Provencal Tomato Soup 
 This is another gem I keep posting because it's so easy, so nourishing and so tasty. It's perfect for all those less than gorgeous tomatoes farmers are selling by the bin.  It's great for all those cheaper non heirloom varieties too. And it's loaded with Vitamin C.
Serves 4-5

2 lbs. fresh tomatoes, skinned (optional) and chopped
2 lg. onions, peeled and finely chopped
3 tbsp. olive oil
1 tbsp. butter
1 mildly hot small pepper, whole
2 tbsp. dried thyme
1 bay leaf
¼ tsp. salt
freshly ground black pepper to your taste
2 tbsp. minced fresh parsley for garnish (5-6 sprigs)

In a medium sized heavy gauge casserole, heat the butter and olive oil together until the butter melts. Stir in thyme and stir-fry 30 seconds. Add onions, bay leaf and a pinch of ground black pepper. Stir to blend and sauté over medium low heat until the onions are soft and glistening.

Add the tomatoes and mix well. Drop in the whole pepper. If the tomatoes aren’t juicy, add ½ cup water to avoid burning. Cover and simmer on low for 20-25 minutes, until the tomatoes become soupy. (If the soup is too thick and pasty, add either another ¼ cup of water or dry sherry if you’d like.)


Remove the bay leaf and whole pepper. Stir in the parsley. Remove from heat. Adjust salt and pepper to your taste. Freeze by portion in plastic containers.  You can drink this from a mug. 


Piperade
I gave this its own post a few weeks ago when peppers starting flooding the market. Here it is again because you can freeze it. I do it in baggies or small containers because a little goes a long way to brighten an omelet or a burger or a pilaf.  If you want a perfect autumn meal right now, once the peppers are soft, add sausage, brown it and then add short or medium grain rice with the requisite amount of broth or water to cook it.  This will give you the Hungarian dish: leszco.

serves 4-6



1 large green bell pepper, washed and seeded

1 large red bell pepper, washed and seeded

1 yellow or orange bell pepper, washed and seeded
1 dark purple bell pepper or yellow or orange
1 sm poblano pepper  

1 med-lg red onion, peeled

3 lg garlic cloves, peeled and minced

¼ tsp dried oregano leaves

1/8 tsp salt

3-4 tbsp olive oil

Fresh ground black pepper to your taste



Slice all the bell peppers into long thin strips. Cut the onion into thin rings, then in half and break the rings apart into thin half moon pieces.


In a large sauté pan, heat the oil (use enough tbsp to thickly coat the entire bottom of the pan. Add the onion and oregano leaves and sauté for 1 minute.



Add all the peppers and garlic, trying to keep the peppers in a uniform direction. Continue cooking over medium to medium low heat until the pepper strips are soft but haven’t lost their bright colors. This will take 15-20 minutes. Add salt and pepper. Remove from heat.

Minestrone Soup

This is not only the ideal way use up the odds and ends of farm vegetables in the bin. It's the way to store a very nourishing, colorful, vegetarian and hearty soup in the freezer.  Bring it out in January and serve a bowl with crusty bread and good cheese, then polish the meal off with a crisp apple. You will feel virtuous and well fed.  

There is no exact recipe for this. Just use whatever veggies you've got on hand but be sure to include a small onion and a carrot. If you have a celery stalk so much the better. Those are the flavor trio. If you don't have celery use celery seed. Suggested vegetables this time of year: green beans, corn off the cob, red cabbage, summer squash/zucchini, bell pepper, tomatoes, cauliflower, mushrooms, beet greens, daikon, kale, and turnip. 

Additionally you will need a can of cooked cannellini (white) beans, a small piece of Parmesan rind or else a few bits of real reggiano parmigiano for the flavor, and finally to make it very hearty small pasta like fregola or orzo, maftoul or macaroni or else medium grain rice. 

To get it all together, cut the vegetables into bite sized pieces. Coat the bottom of a lidded heavy medium sized pot with olive oil.  Get it hot over medium heat. Add the onions, carrots and celery or celery seed plus the parmesan rind or cheese. Add at least 1 tsp dried sage, 2 tsp dried rosemary, 2 tsp dried oregano and a good pinch of red pepper flakes. Stir to blend and saute over med/low heat 3 minutes to soften the vegetables. Toss in the other vegetables you've cut up. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste. (You may need more salt than you think).  If you didn't have fresh tomatoes to add, you can now add 1/2-1 c depending on how much soup you're making of boxed or canned chopped tomatoes. Stir everything.  Now cover with vegetable broth or water  that is at least  2" higher than the vegetables.   Bring to a boil, lower heat to simmer, cover the pot and cook 15 minutes. Add the pasta or rice. Stir it in. You may need to add more broth or water now because you want to end up with juice: it's soup! Cover the pot, and simmer another 15 minutes. Turn off the heat and let the soup sit.  After 10 minutes or so, taste and adjust salt, red pepper flakes  and broth.  Cool to freeze in airtight plastic containers.
              
Roasted Cherry Tomatoes
I posted this recently with the tomato recipes so it's just a reminder that you can freeze these in baggies. 
  

Corn chowder 
What to do with corn from the cob when you bought too many.         

Serves 6

2 tbsp butter or ghee
1 lg onion, peeled and diced
1 poblano pepper, roasted, skinned and diced
1 Serrano or other hot chili, seeded and diced
1 tbsp dried sage
1 tsp dried oregano
2 tsp ground coriander
½ tsp ground chipotle
1 tsp cracked or freshly ground black pepper
3 cups corn kernels (can be 4-5 fresh ears, frozen or canned corn)
3 celery stalks, cleaned and diced
2 cups water
3 medium potatoes (any color), peeled and cubed
1 tsp salt
2 tbsp. diced pimento (roasted red pepper)
2 cups vegetable broth
12 oz. evaporated milk (not sweetened)
4 oz heavy cream

For garnish: chopped fresh chives, chopped fresh cilantro, shredded jack or cheddar cheese, toasted pumpkin seeds

Cut the corn off the cobs and put the cobs into a pot with 2 cups of water.  Bring to a boil and simmer while you make the chowder.

Melt butter in a medium soup pot or casserole. Add onions, poblano and chili peppers, sage and oregano. Sauté over medium heat until onions are golden brown, about 6-8 minutes.

Stir in coriander, chipotle, black pepper and celery. Continue to sauté 2 minutes, stirring occasionally.

Puree one cup of corn with 1 tbsp vegetable broth and add to the pot, stirring to blend. Add potatoes, salt and the rest of the vegetable broth. Blend ingredients, cover and simmer for 10 minutes.

Add 2 cups corn kernels and pimentos. If you have boiled corncobs in water, remove the cobs and pour the corn-flavored water into the soup. If you didn’t do this, simply add two cups of water. Continue to simmer covered on medium low heat for 5-8 minutes. (You don’t have to be exact.)

Taste for salt and adjust to preference. Stir in evaporated milk and heavy cream. Cook over medium low heat uncovered until the soup is warmed thoroughly. Do not bring to a boil once the milk and cream have been included.  Stir once to blend all flavors.
              
 Plum or Fig Torte      
 This is another favorite recipe I post annually and included in the book, How to Fix a Leek.... because it's so simple and elegant.   And it freezes well. To serve take from the freezer and put into a cold oven and turn the oven to 350º. Heat just until the cake is soft, maybe 25 minutes.  A lovely coffee cake perfect for tea or breakfast or after a rich dinner. You can substitute figs sliced for plum halves; just add some anise seed to the mix.
  fig version




12-14 plums, pitted and halved       
1 stick (8 tbsp) unsalted butter
½ c white sugar
¼ c light brown sugar                                  
1 tsp baking powder
1 c unbleached flour, sifted         
2 extra large eggs
Pinch of salt
1 tbsp milk
¼ tsp cinnamon                             
1 tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 tbsp light brown sugar
¼ tsp ground cloves
¼ tsp ground ginger

Preheat over to 350º. Butter a 9” springform pan. If yours is 8” or 10”, no worries.
Put the halved plums in a bowl with lemon juice, 1 tbsp brown sugar and spices. Stir to blend.
In or with a mixer, cream butter and sugars. Add eggs and beat to incorporate. Add flour, baking powder and salt. Beat just enough to incorporate everything. Fold in the milk to lighten the mix. The batter will be thick and it will seem meager in the pan but it will rise!
Spoon batter into the buttered pan and level the top. Arrange the plum halves cut side down around the top. Bake 35-40 minutes or until tester comes out clean. Cool and release from spring form pan. This can now be frozen double wrapped in foil and sealed in an airtight plastic bag for later.