Bring Spring to the table

Eggs and lamb are the traditional table signs of spring, clear signals of new life. So along with Spring green, here are a few ways--some flour free-- to celebrate traditional rebirth rites of Spring: Easter and Passover with enough color for Hindu Holi. Coming next: Make it with maple--syrup, because now is the tapping time when it's fresh. Many farms have been open to the public to see the process.

Smoked Salmon Stuffed Eggs

Flour free, gluten free fabulously fancy first course or brunch buffet item or cocktail companion that's ridiculously easy to whip up and memorably tasty.

8 eggs (1 per person)

4-5 scallions, trimmed and minced

1 tbsp chopped fresh chives

2 tsp drained capers

3 slices smoked salmon cut into bits

2 tbsp chopped fresh dill

½-1 tsp prepared horseradish, depending on your taste

¼ c whipped cream cheese, crème fraiche or sour cream

sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

pinch of paprika

Boil the eggs 10-12 minutes. Drain, cool and carefully peel. Cut in half lengthwise and scoop out the yolks. Put them in a food processor, chopper, blender or mixing bowl. Add all the remaining ingredients EXCEPT for a bit of the dill or chives held out for garnish. Process into a smooth pate/puree.

  Fill the egg whites with the pate and cover the white edges entirely so nothing shows but the filling. Arrange the eggs on a serving platter and garnish with a pinch of paprika and sprinkle of chives or dill. For color intersperse cherry tomatoes or olives or both. NOTE: The purple in the photo is chive flowers.

Spanish Meatless Soup of Chickpeas, spinach and hard boiled egg

This sort of hearty soup, meat and fish-free, has traditionally been served during Lent, right up to Easter Day, and on meatless Fridays in the very Catholic country of Spain. It's part of my growing can of chickpeas collection.

Serves 6

6 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil (1/4 c + 2 tbsp)

4 slices (1/4 pound) French bread

3 tbsp sherry vinegar

1 medium onion, chopped

2 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and chopped or ½ c boxed chopped tomatoes

2 tsp paprika

2 c cooked canned chickpeas, rinsed

1 lb baby spinach washed well and coarsely chopped

1 lb boiling potatoes peeled and cut into bite sized pieces

½ c dry white wine

2 tsp salt

Freshly ground black pepper

4 c water or vegetable broth for richer soup

3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

3 tbsp pine nuts

¼ c finely chopped fresh parsley leaves

Pinch of saffron

1 large hard-boiled egg, chopped

In a soup pot or flameproof casserole, heat ¼ c olive oil over medium heat, then cook the bread until golden brown and crispy, 4 to 5 minutes. Remove bread, rip into smaller pieces, and douse with the vinegar.

To the same pot, add 2 tbsp olive oil, heat, then add onions, tomatoes and paprika. Over medium/low heat cook into a thick sauce, 10 - 12 minutes.

Add the chickpeas, spinach, potatoes, wine, salt, pepper, and water/broth. Turn the heat to high, and once the spinach wilts and the broth is beginning to boil, reduce heat to simmer and cook until the potatoes are tender, 10-15 minutes.

Add the garlic, pine nuts, parsley, fried bread and saffron and blend. Remove from heat and top with the hard-boiled egg. Let the soup rest 10 minutes before serving.

Keftiki, Greek roasted lamb and potatoes

You start this the night before to get the lamb marinated and you have to cook it half the day, but not tend to it at all while it's in the oven. So it isn't complicated or very very time consuming. This is a real meat and potatoes way to show off Spring lamb--if you can't get Spring vegetables. 

serves 8

6 garlic cloves

1 tbsp dried oregano leaves

1 tbsp rosemary leaves

3 lemons, zest of one, juice from two

½ tsp ground cinnamon

¼ c olive oil

4½-5 lb leg of lamb

2¼ lbs waxy potatoes (In Europe favored type is yellow flesh Desiree)

2 lg red onions, peeled and cut half, then half again (wedges)

5 bay leaves

Optional yogurt sauce below

Crush together the garlic cloves and 1 tsp salt using a pestle and mortar or small chopper. Add the herbs, lemon zest, cinnamon, a few grinds of fresh black pepper and blend. Stir in 2 tbsp of olive oil.

Using a sharp knife, create 2-3” deep holes all over the lamb, and rub in this paste, pushing it down. Wrap the lamb tightly in tin foil or a food bag or plastic container. Before closing it up, pour the lemon juice all over the lamb. Tighten the enclosure, put it in the fridge and let the lamb marinate overnight.

The next day, an hour before you want to cook it, take the lamb out of the fridge. Heat oven to 325º.

Line the base of a large lidded heavy oven proof casserole dish (or line a roasting pan with two layers of parchment paper large enough to fold together over the top of both sides – you’ll probably need two pieces at right angles). Peel potatoes and cut in wedges. Line the bottom of the cooking vessel with the cut potatoes and onion. Sprinkle a bit of sea salt and the last of the olive oil over them. Pour any juice around the lamb into the pan. Place the lamb itself on top. Add 1 c water and seal the lamb in by folding up the parchment or by closing the lid on the casserole (to make sure it is really tight you can slide a piece of moist parchment on top of the pot before putting the lid down). Roast 4 ½-5 hours. The lamb should be very tender.

Remove pan from the oven. Raise the oven temperature to 400º. Unwrap or uncover the lamb (scrunch down the parchment on each side) and baste the lamb with the juices in the bottom. Return to the oven for 20 minutes to brown. Remove the lamb from the pan, wrap in foil and let it rest. Remove bay leaves and discard them.

Stir the onions and potatoes to flip and return the pan to the oven 15 minutes so they brown. Remove and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. 

While the potatoes brown, you can make the optional yogurt sauce:

1 c thick Greek yogurt (plain)

2 tbsp lemon juice freshly squeezed

1 tbsp olive oil

¼ c chopped fresh mint leaves

Whisk everything together and pour into a gravy or spouted serving bowl.

To Serve: slice the lamb and lay on a serving platter with the roasted potatoes and onions. Pour the pan juices on top. Serve with yogurt on the side.

Creamy Rice pudding with lemon
This is one of my oldest most beloved recipes and it's served with a twist that's perfect for Easter egg celebrating. sorry no photo: I was making this long before cameras were a necessary kitchen tool and didn't have time to get a batch for this post.
serves 6

1/2 c white rice
1/2 c dark raisins
1 qt milk (obviously whole milk will make a richer pudding but it's your choice here)
4 egg yolks (save the whites for something else like meringue cookies or omelet)
1/2 c granulated sugar
1/4 c powdered/confectioner's sugar
1 tsp ground cinnamon
1 lemon, zest of it all
1/4 tsp ground nutmegish: 8 canned apricot or peach halves very well drained and dried1 c fr
1 tsp vanilla extract
to garnish: 8 canned apricot or peach halves very well drained and dried
1 c freshly whipped cream

In a small saucepan with 1/2 c water, parboil the rice and raisins 5 minutes. Drain.
In a med/lg heavy pot, scald the milk. (This means heat it quickly just until it starts to bubble at the edges and a skin forms.) Add the rice and raisins. Over low heat cook 45 minutes stirring occasionally to nothing sticks to the bottom. While that's happening, whisk the granulated sugar and cinnamon into the egg yolks. Put the powdered sugar through a sieve to remove its lumps.
Carefully whisk the egg yokes into the milk mixture followed by the powdered sugar. Stir in the lemon zest and vanilla extract and 1/2 the nutmeg. Cook over low heat stirring constantly until the pudding is thickening significantly. (It will thicken more as it cools.)  Immediately put it into a large shallow serving bowl and level the top. Sprinkle the remaining nutmeg over the top.
To serve: spread a layer of freshly whipped cream across the top and nestle the dried fruit halves cut side down in it to create the look of sunny side up eggs!

Chocolate Dried Fruit Torte
Gluten and flour free and full of beans (chocolate is a bean!). This is ridiculously simple to pull together and ridiculously rich. You can only eat a tiny bit at a time so it goes a long way. It also lasts a long time in the fridge. And what a gift if you're invited to someone else's celebration!

serves 12 with small wedges

¾ c dark chocolate, best quality
½ c unsalted butter (1 stick)
4 eggs
A pinch of salt
½ c dried apricots, chopped
½ c figs, chopped

1/4 c dried cherries
I tbsp orange zest (minced) or 1/2 tsp orange flower water

1/2 tsp ground cinnamon

1/2 tsp ground nutmeg

1/4 c shredded coconut
Optionally: cocoa powder, to dust before serving

Preheat oven to 350º. Line a    " round baking dish or pie plate with parchment, enough to come up over the sides.

In a double boiler/bain marie, with barely simmering water in the lower pot, over low heat, melt the chocolate and butter slowly. Remove from heat. Whisk in the eggs, then salt, dried fruits, zest and spices. Blend until smooth. Pour batter into the prepared pan. Sprinkle coconut all over the top.

 Bake for 15-20 minutes, or until it is firm. Leave to cool in the pan. 

Remove from pan by pulling up on the parchment. Slide the torte onto your serving dish and dust with cocoa powder to serve. 

 

the good recipe post for the equinox of March

It's supposed to officially be Spring any minute but in much of the country you'd never know that. Winter has returned with brute force. So greenery pickings can be slim. Here are a few hopefully soul brightening ways to deal with that--and give you time to re-orient your thoughts about buying organic wholesome meat after reading the article in the last post. The three recipes could be combined into a hearty, colorful and very healthy meal.

Leek and Spinach Pie

From the mountain tops of northern Greece, here is how to fix a leek! This variation of my popular Chard Torte and Trash Torte, a crustless greens and sheep cheese "pie",  features the sweetness of leeks, lots of them together in a loud chorus. There's a slight top and bottom crust: entirely cornmeal. That means it's gluten-free. The pie can be served from the oven, warmed over the next day or at room temperature after you make it. Don't fret it if looks sloppy with greens falling to the side as you cut it. Scoop them back into the cut piece. 
P.S. I made this in a 9" round pan but it would be better in a square one so I am suggesting that below. You choose!
serves 10 
 4 lg leeks
1 lb baby spinach
1 bunch chard
2 lg handfuls arugula, watercress, dandelion or other bitter greens
3/4 lb mixed sheep milk cheeses: sheep milk feta, Manchego, pecorino, ricota salata, manouri
 1/4 c olive oil
2 tbsp fresh dill
1/2 tsp Aleppo or other medium hot ground red pepper 
Coarse and regular sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1 tsp soft butter
1/2 c fine stone-ground yellow corn meal
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1/4 tsp paprika

Trim the top leaves off the leaks, quarter them lengthwise and cut crosswise into 1/2" pieces
Wash thoroughly in a large sieve and drain well. Sprinkle a heaping tsp of coarse salt on them, blend it in and let the leeks soften for 1 hour. 

While that's happening, wash the chard and bitter greens and spinach if it doesn't come pre-washed. Drain thoroughly. Tear the chard leaves from thick stems and chop them. Put the chard in a bowl with a pinch of coarse salt and let them sit 30 minutes to soften. 

Rinse all the veggies with running water and in small batches put them in cheesecloth or a thin towel and squeeze them as dry as you can. If you can, do this over a large bowl to collect their excess moisture. If not, no worries. Just get the leeks and greens as dry as you can.

Heat 2 tbsp of olive oil in a large skillet. Add leeks and cook over medium heat until they start to soften-- 3-4 minutes. Dump them in a large bowl. Heat another tbsp of the oil in the skillet, add the spinach and cook 2 minutes, stirring to get it all down to the heat, til it softens. Put it in the bowl with the leeks. put the last tbsp oil in the skillet and do the same with the chard and bitter greens. Pour them into the bowl with leeks and spinach. 
You can stop here, refrigerate and continue the next day.

Preheat oven to 400º and have a rack in the center. Spread the soft butter all over a shallow 9-10" square  pan. Sprinkle half the cornmeal evenly around the bottom. Sprinkle a little bit of that drying out moisture or else water on the cornmeal--maybe 1/8 tsp at most--to get the cornmeal damp.

Add the dill, ground chili, cheese, salt and pepper to the bowl and blend everything well--your hands are the best tool for this. Gently pour the pie filling into the cornmeal coated pan, smoothing and leveling the top. Sprinkle the remaining cornmeal evenly around the top, lightly pressing it into the filling. Sprinkle the nutmeg and paprika around. Finally sprinkle a tiny bit of hot water on the cornmeal. Now you know why it's sometimes called "sprinkle pie," Paula Wolfert says. (I've varied her version.)

Bake 45-60 minutes, whatever it takes to get a reddish brown crust on the top. Remove from the oven and sprinkle a few drops of tap water on top. Cool at least 20 minutes before cutting in squares with a knife and lifting with a small spatula.

Real Hummus/Tahini with Spiced Lamb

The photo shows the genuine home-cooked hummus/tahini I made topped as it should be with sprinkles of ground cumin and Aleppo pepper. Company came so quickly I never got to photograph the final plate with the lamb and parsley on top. And it disappeared so fast...  If you have time to bother to make the chickpeas from scratch, you will be rewarded with an addictive dish. If you can at least get the skins off canned chickpeas, you'll get a rewarding smooth texture. (You soak them a few minutes then stir them up with your hands and you'll see ghostly skins start to come off.) I served this with flatbread just bought at an Iraqi bakery and the whole combo--cool smooth hummus with hot crispy lamb bits and hearty but thin bread-- was off the goodness charts. P.S. If you've noticed I'm calling this hummus/tahini, it's because hummus is the Arabic word for chickpea, not the dish sold in every deli in America these days.

for the tahini/hummus
If you are NOT using canned chickpeas,
1 c dried chickpeas
1 sm onion, peeled
1 celery stalk
2 bay leaves
Soak the chickpeas in lots of water overnight. Drain and rinse. Put in a large pot with enough water to be 4" over the top. Add the onion, celery and bay leaves. Bring to a boil, reduce heat to simmer, cover pot and cook 45-60 until chickpeas are soft. Toss out the onion, bay leaves and celery. Drain but keep the cooking water. Cool. Run your hands through the chickpeas and you will start to see skins shed. Pull them out and continue as long as you can. It's tedious but worth the effort in the end.


If you are using CANNED chickpeas,
1 14/15 oz can, drained and rinsed but keep the liquid from the can and try to remove skins if you can 
1/4 c good quality tahini
1 lg or 2 sm garlic cloves, peeled and smashed
1/2 tsp coarse salt
1 lg lemon, its juice
2 tbsp olive oil
1/4 tsp ground cumin
1/4 tsp Aleppo chili pepper or hot paprika

for the lamb
1 tbsp unsalted butter
1 very sm onion, minced
1/4 lb lamb, cut into tiny bits (you can use ground but the bits effect is MUCH better unless you really break it up well into bits)
3 tbsp pine nuts
freshly ground black pepper to your taste
1/4 tsp ground cinnamon
1/4 tsp ground allspice
1/4 tsp hot paprika or Aleppo pepper
1/4 tsp salt
1 tbsp best quality olive oil
1/4 c chopped flat leaf parsley

Stir the tahini in the jar to blend the oil into the solids. Put 1/4 c into a food processor, blender or mixing bowl. Add the garlic, salt and lemon juice. Blend until the mixture looks whiter. Add 1/2 c chickpea water and blend. Add all but 1/4 c chickpeas and process until smooth. Taste to adjust for salt or lemon juice. Spread evenly on a shallow plate, top with sprinkles of cumin and hot paprika and let it sit at room temperature at least 1 hour. 

About 15 minutes before you want to serve this, make the lamb.
Heat butter in a medium skillet. With heat at medium/low and add onion and sauté until soft, 2-3 minutes. Add the lamb, raise heat to medium and stirring brown it as much as you can--5-8 minutes. The crispier the better! Add the pine nuts, salt and spices, stirring to blend. Cook another 2 minutes to brown the nuts. 
Distribute the cooked lamb over the top of the hummus. Distribute the remaining chickpeas around and over it. Sprinkle over everything all 1 tbsp best quality olive oil and top the whole dish with the chopped parsley. Serve with pita or flatbread as first course or part of a mezze (small plate) meal or anytime really. 

Kushari
This hearty vegan delight is sometimes called the national dish of Egypt. I think of it as spring cleaning the cupboard. It's made from rice, macaroni, lentils and chickpeas--all the stuff you've had on hand. It strikes me as similar to the wonderful Syrian dish, Burnt Fingers, a conglomeration of lentils, macaroni, fried onions and spices that I've posted before with its actual name harak osbao, which translates into burnt fingers. There's lots of pots here because everything is cooked separately but it's all astonishingly simple.

2 lg yellow onions, thinly sliced into rings
1/4 c flour or cornstarch
1 c brown lentils
1/4 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp salt
1 c white rice (medium grain works best but don't be fussy)
2 tsp ground cumin
2 c ditalini or elbow macaroni
1/3 c good olive oil
1 can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

For the sauce
1 tbsp good quality olive oil
6 sm garlic cloves, minced
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp salt
1 tsp ground Aleppo pepper or 1/4 tsp cayenne
2 tbsp white vinegar or red wine if you don't have it
2 c tomato sauce or crushed tomatoes with their juice 

Dry the onion rings with paper towels. Put in a bowl and toss with the flour/cornstarch. Set aside.
Get out two medium and one large pot. Put the lentils with the ground cloves and 1 tsp cumin in a medium pot with 1 1/2 c water. Put the rice in the other pot with 1 1/2 c water. Bring both to a boil.
For the lentils, add 1 tsp salt, cover the pot and reduce heat to low. Cook 15 minutes until they are tender. Add water if necessary.
    For the rice, add 1 tsp cumin an 1 tsp salt. Reduce heat to simmer, cover and cook 20 minutes until rice is tender. 
In the large pot cook the pasta according to package instructions. Drain, rinse and set aside.

In a large sauté pan, on medium flame, heat the olive oil. Carefully arrange the onion rings in the pan and fry until they are light brown and very crisp--10-12 minutes. You may have to do this in batches or two pans.

Warm the chickpeas either in the microwave or in a covered saucepan with a bit of water over low heat

In a small saucepan make the sauce by heating the olive oil. Add the garlic, cumin, salt and Aleppo pepper. Stir to blend, then add the vinegar. Cook 30-45 seconds and add the tomato.(If using crushed tomatoes use the back of your spoon to flatten some of them.) Bring to a boil, immediately reduce heat to simmer and cook 10 minutes to thicken. 

To assemble and serve: On a large platter, spread out the pasta. Top it with the rice, then the lentils and chickpeas. 
Now here cooks differ: you can top with the fried onions and serve the sauce on the side OR you can pour some of the sauce over what's on the plate and top with the onions, serving the rest of the sauce on the side.

 


 

Bad news and good recipes in two posts

So much for great expectations. Only Huff Post courageously carried the report on how our current anti-regulation government has officially corrupted the term "organic meat."  So please know if you go to a supermarket and you go straight for the organic section, you are not getting what you expect. To cater to the cash of big industrial meat farms, organic no longer has to mean the animals got outside or were treated humanely in any way. You know, what we've come to expect from the small organic producers. The moral from this immorality is to NOT buy meat from a supermarket. Go to your local farmer.

Here's the article. Next post will have the good recipes!

The Organic Livestock and Poultry Practices rule was finalized in January 2017, and was set to take effect in May. Some of the stipulations of the rule included:

• Animals would have daily access to the outdoors, and “enclosed porches” would not qualify as outdoor access.
• Certain practices would be prohibited, including de-beaking and forced molting of chickens and tail-docking of cattle (removing their tails).
• Chickens that produce eggs would be entitled to about 1 to 2 square feet of space per bird, depending on the size of the bird and the type of housing.

Consumers may think the term “organic” means “humanely raised,” but that’s often not the reality. For instance, many certified organic eggs actually come from hens jam-packed into windowless barns.

But the USDA said the new standards would be outside of the department’s statutory authority ― and on top of that, it said they’re unnecessary.

“The existing robust organic livestock and poultry regulations are effective,” USDA Marketing and Regulatory Program Undersecretary Greg Ibach said in a press release about the decision.

Sen. Pat Roberts (R-Kan.), head of the Senate Agriculture Committee, said in a statement that the rule “would have jeopardized the livelihood of organic livestock and poultry producers.”

But that’s not how many organic farmers see it. Some say they already comply with the standards that the OLPP would have mandated for everyone, and that withdrawing the rule unfairly benefits large-scale operations that are inclined to cut corners.

The Organic Trade Association called not moving forward with the rule an “unconscionable action” and said the organic industry and general public mostly support the measure. 

The USDA itself said in January that organic trade groups and “smaller-scale organic farmers” had “generally expressed support” for the OLPP. The department also noted that during an open comment period when the rule was proposed, a majority of letters submitted to the department were in favor — and largely came from “individuals associated with animal welfare and consumer organizations.”

Animal welfare groups also saw the decision as a blow.

“The USDA’s withdrawal of the OLPP is a violation of the public trust that reverses the nearly two decades of collaboration and feedback from farmers and consumers that led to this groundbreaking rule,” Matt Bershadker, the president of the American Society for the Prevention of Cruelty to Animals, said in a statement. “Millions of animals will continue to suffer each year because of the USDA’s abdication of its duty to enforce meaningful organic animal welfare standards.”

More Eatin' O'the Green

A few more worldly ways to go green here at the Ides of March and start to rev up a system made sluggish by winter. Easy to find green veggies in glamorous form: green beans, spinach, kale, chard and collards.

Persian Green Bean Fritatta

Once you've chopped up the green beans, this is ridiculously simple to prepare. It's also delightfully delicious (long yea saffron! and hello tarragon) and perfect for kids. Unlike Italian frittatas and Spanish tortillas, this Persian version wants just enough egg to hold the green beans and onions together.  Unlike the frittata and tortilla, it looks great baked in a square pan and cut into squares instead of wedges. And if all this isn't enough to encourage you to try it, you can eat it hot, room temp or cold-- the next day as well. Perfect picnic and lunchbox fare. Good for brunch buffet, light lunch or dinner appetizer.

I got 9 squares out of this, cutting three lines both ways. The hungry could easily eat two squares.

1 lb green beans, cleaned and cut into 1/4" pieces
1 lg onion, diced
3 tbsp unsalted butter
pinch of saffron, soaked in 2 tbsp hot water
6 extra large eggs
2 tbsp milk or water
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 tsp dried tarragon leaves
1/4-1/2 tsp Aleppo chili pepper (depending on if you want to taste it)
Salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste
3 tbsp breadcrumbs or fine corn meal
1/4 tsp paprika

 Preheat oven to 350º. Grease an 8" square baking pan with 1 tbsp butter. Sprinkle 1 tbsp breadcrumbs across the bottom.
Cook the cut beans in boiling salted water until tender, 8-10 minutes. Drain carefully.
Melt 2 tbsp butter in a frying pan or skillet and over med/low heat, sauté the onions until they are soft and translucent. Don't burn.

In a medium bowl--if it has a pour spout so much the better, beat the eggs with 2 tbsp milk. Whisk in the saffron with its water, nutmeg, tarragon, salt and pepper to your taste. Stir in the green beans and onions and thoroughly blend.  Pour everything into the buttered square pan and level the top. Sprinkle around 2 tbsp of breadcrumbs and the paprika.
   Bake at 350º 25 minutes or until the eggs are firm.  Cool at least 5 minutes before cutting.

Georgian Spinach "Pate"

How many this vegan splendor serves depends on how you serve it but it's hard to cut back the quantities. Also, WARNING: contains nuts.
Georgian here means from the Caucuses, not the South. Homecooks in that land on the Black Sea turn many vegetables into "paté" and offer several at once with flatbread as part of a mezze/tapas spread to start a meal. Since homecooks might not have access to a lot of molds, they usually form their paté in available bowls, so I did too and got this green dome. You can use a small loaf pan if you prefer. I topped it with a candied walnut to indicate it contained nuts. That's vital because to nuts can be lethal to those with allergies.

1 lb baby spinach leaves

1 lg garlic clove
1/2 c walnut pieces or halves
1/2 tsp coarse sea salt
1/2 tsp ground chili (Aleppo works great)
1/2 tsp coriander seeds or 1 tsp ground coriander
2 tbsp chopped flat leaf parsley
1/4 c chopped cilantro leaves
1 tsp cider vinegar
Black pepper to your taste
to garnish: walnut halves and/or pomegranate seeds or finely crumbled feta.

Blanch or steam the spinach until it wilts. Drain reserving 2-3 tbsp of the water and squeeze it as dry as possible. Chop it finely.
Put the walnuts, sea salt and garlic in a food chopper or processor and grind to an oil paste. This means grinding until the nuts release their oil. If it seems too thick add 2 tbsp spinach water to get it to the consistency of thick hummus. Grind in the chili, coriander, parsley and cilantro. Add the vinegar and push in the chopped spinach. Before you grind season with freshly ground black pepper. Grind everything into a smooth paté. (Note: this is my adaption using modern equipment. In Georgia cooks do a lot of pounding and pestling.)
Oil a small bowl and pack in the paté, pushing down and leveling the top. Put a pot lid or something

heavy the fits and put a weight on that. Wrap everything in a plastic bag to seal it, put it in the fridge overnight or for at least 6 hours. Using a small spatula to loosen the edges, unmold the paté onto a round plate. Garnish with walnuts and whatever else. Surround with bread and a knife for spreading.
This can also be a pitta sandwich filling which you can embellish as you wish with sour cream or cheese or chopped red onion and cucumber.

Polenta Kale Layer Cake

One of my mid winter madness creations a few years back. This photo shows the kale and sweet potatoes in one filling between two layers of polenta instead of the three layer cake below. Your choice!

Serves 6

2/3 cup polenta

3 cups water

1 tsp dried oregano

2 tbsp minced roasted poblano pepper

Pinch of red pepper flakes

¼ tsp salt

¼ cup shredded or grated mozzarella cheese

for the kale filling

2 bunches kale

1 med white onion, diced

5 garlic cloves, minced

3 tbsp olive oil

¼ tsp freshly ground black pepper

1 tbsp pine nuts

¼ tsp salt

½ cup ricotta cheese (fat free is fine)

2 lg sweet potatoes

¼ tsp salt

2 cardamom pods, cracked or ¼ ground cardamom.

2 tbsp mascarpone

¼ cup grated parmesan cheese

pinch of nutmeg

1 tbsp olive oil for the pan

Grease an 8 or 9” springform pan with 1 tbsp olive oil and set aside.

Preheat oven to 375º.

Peel and coarsely chop the sweet potatoes. Put in a pot and cover with water. Add salt and cardamom pods. Bring to a boil. Reduce heat slightly and cook until potatoes are soft, 12-15 minutes. Remove cardamom pods. Using a slotted spoon or spatula to drain them, put the sweet potatoes in a food processor. Add 1 tbsp of the cooking water and hold the rest. Add the mascarpone. Quickly puree.  Set aside.

Remove kale leaves from their thick stems. Wash and drain carefully. Combine kale, garlic and pine nuts in a food processor. Using the pulse button, chop the kale into small pieces as though making pesto.

In a small skillet, heat 2 tbsp olive oil over medium/low heat. Add onions and black pepper. Sauté 5 minutes until onions are soft. 

Stir in the chopped kale mix. Sauté 3-5 minutes until kale is soft but still bright green. Remove from heat. Add salt and ricotta and blend well. Set aside.

In a medium saucepan, combine 1 cup sweet potato water with 2 cups water. Add salt and bring to a boil. Whisk in the polenta and continue whisking until it is absorbed and the mixture starts to thicken, 5 minutes.

Add oregano, pepper flakes and minced poblano pepper. Continue cooking over low heat 2 minutes, stirring with a wooden spoon. Add mozzarella cheese, stirring as you go and continue cooking 3 more minutes so all cheese is melted.  Polenta should be thick and creamy now.

Cover the bottom of the oiled springform pan with an even layer of 1/3 the polenta.

Cover the polenta layer with an even layer of the kale mixture. Top with another layer of 1/3 of the polenta.

Top with an even layer of the sweet potatoes and a final layer of polenta.

Top with the grated parmesan cheese and a sprinkle of nutmeg.

Cover the pan with aluminum foil. Bake at 375º for 30 minutes. Remove foil and continue baking 15-20 minutes until top is lightly brown. Remove from heat. Cool in the pan 10-15 minutes. Remove sides of the pan.

Serve cut in wedges like a cake.

  

*Carnivores can add ½ cup chopped chorizo or pepperoni to the polenta or ½ cup chopped garlic sausage to the kale.

Gratin of Hearty Winter Greens
serves 6-8 and freezes well

Enough extra-virgin olive or butter to generously cover the bottom of a large pan
3 medium onions, halved and sliced thin

1 bunch of kale

1 bunch of chard

1 bunch of collards*

4 cloves of garlic, smashed, peeled, and minced

pinch red chili pepper flakes
Sea salt
1 pint heavy cream
4 ounces grated cheese, such as Parmigiano-Reggiano or Gruyère
Plenty of freshly ground black pepper

*if you can’t find collards use two bunches of kale or different chards

Place a large heavy-bottom pot over low-medium heat, add the onions, and sauté, stirring occasionally, until they are very soft, 5-8 minutes.
Meanwhile, prep the greens. Remove the stems that run down the center by holding the leaf in one left hand and slicing down each side of the stem with a knife. By the time you're done, you'll have two piles: one of stems and one of leaves. Bunch the stems in a pile and slice them finely, crosswise. Set aside. Chop the greens and set them aside.
Preheat the oven to 350º.
Add the chopped garlic to the softened onions in the pot and stir for a minute or so, until the garlic has released its fragrance. Add the chopped stems, chili pepper flakes and a pinch of salt, stir to mix them with the onions and garlic, and cover the pot. Let them cook about five minutes, stirring occasionally. Now add the greens and another pinch of salt, using tongs to carefully mix in with the sautéed veggies in the pan. Add ½ c water (or stock) to the pan, and turn heat to high until the water begins to boil. When it does, turn heat down to low, and let the greens simmer, covered, stirring occasionally until they're nearly tender but still a little al dente. Uncover the pot cook, stirring occasionally, until most of the liquid in the pan has evaporated.
Turn off the heat, taste, and add a little salt if necessary. Arrange the cooked greens in a casserole dish large enough to comfortably fit them all. Pour the cream over. Sprinkle the cheese all over the top. Season heavily with black pepper. Bake until the top is browned (30-45 minutes). Serve hot.

This dish can be made a day or two in advance and reheated in a 350º just before serving. Vegan variation: Replace the cream with coconut milk and replace the cheese with bread crumbs (or slivered almonds) .

Greening up

Time again for a few words on the feng shui of food, the common sense science of eating what Mother Nature provides exactly when she provides it in your terrain. In other words Her hint hint for seasonal, local eating. Perhaps you've noticed how abundantly she provides vitamin packed, acidic citrus during the cold germ filed months of winter when she also brings up sinus clearing bitters like arugula, broccoli rabe and bitter melon. It's for the heat of summer when our bodies sweat and need moisture that she offers us water laden foods like cucumbers, tomatoes, berries and melons so where's the imperative to buy all that imported stuff? Put it back on the supermarket shelf.

Right now we're on a cusp. We've passed lunar New Year  (Feb 16) and just tripped over meteorological spring (March 1) as we head toward Spring solstice on March 21. In other words we're moving from the cold sluggishness of winter to the bright thaw of Spring. We need tonic foods to clear that sluggishness from our bodies and fuel them with more energy.  Well, bingo! Mom Nature's ready with handouts. All of her tonics (e.g. dandelion greens, spinach, asparagus, nettles. fiddleheads) are green, the color of sunshine stored in chemicals like chlorophyll. So just in time for that Spring ritual, the wearing of the green, here's a way to ease into the eatin' o' the green--and brighten your winter table.

Andalusian spinach with chickpeas
This vegetarian delight is in my new collection of 88 traditional, beloved chickpea recipes from all over the world and one of my favorites. I'm still trying to reproduce the nonchalant, exquisite version I had in Seville's oldest tavern and will post when I nail it. Meanwhile this version which I made from two differing recipes pleased a pile of people yesterday.
Serves 6 -8

1 lb spinach leaves, stems off, washed and coarsely chopped

1 can chickpeas, drained but reserve the water

1/2 c olive oil

2 slices day old bread, crusts removed and broken into pieces (you can use two small pitas too) or if you want to be gluten free you can try using 18 raw marcona almonds

3 garlic cloves

1 tsp cumin seed

1/3 c chopped tomatoes, juice included

3 tbsp sherry vinegar or 2 tbsp sherry and 1 tbsp red wine vinegar

1 tsp smoked Spanish paprika

½ tsp chili powder (unless you are using hot Spanish paprika)

Coarse sea salt and freshly ground black pepper to your taste

Heat the olive oil in a med pot/saucepan and over medium heat fry the slices of garlic and bread or almonds until golden. Remove with a slotted spoon, leaving the pot and oil untouched. Put the bread or almonds and garlic in a food processor, chopper or mortar. Add the smoked Spanish paprika (pimentón), the chili pepper, cumin seed, black pepper, and the coarse sea salt. Blitz or pound into paste. Add the vinegar and 2 tbsp chickpea water to thin the paste to the consistency of hummus.Add 1 tsp vinegar if necessary to thin it.

Put the tomatoes and chickpeas into the pot/saucepan with the oil. Stir in the paste, adding another tbsp. chickpea water if necessary. Warm over medium heat. Add the spinach to the pot, lightly pressing it down. Continue cooking until the spinach is totally wilted. Stir the spinach into the chickpeas and sauce and continue cooking on low heat 8-10 minutes so the spinach is very soft. Stir so nothing burns. Taste and add salt or sherry/sherry vinegar and/or Spanish paprika if necessary.  Serve warm with toasts or in bowls.

Lebanese/Syrian Chard Rolls, Mishi Waraq Sila

Also from my new chickpea recipe collection and pulled from several recipes as everyone seems to have their own version of this traditional favorite. Mine is a vegetarian version, mighty tasty! A caveat about the photo: I may have used chard leaves that were way too large because the photos I've seen of these look smaller and daintier, often like cigars. I'm going to have another go with smaller leaves and report back. Or you report to me.

Makes about 12 rolls

2 bunches fresh chard (no torn leaves)

2 c coarse bulgur

1 medium onion, chopped

½ c chopped tomatoes (not juice if you can help it)*

1 1/4 cups canned chickpeas

¼ c chopped fresh mint leaves

3 tbsp olive oil

zest of one lemon

4 cloves garlic, mashed

¼ c lemon juice

salt and black pepper to taste

1 large onion, sliced

*I don't buy tomatoes in winter so I used whole canned tomatoes, drained and chopped

To make the stuffing:

Soak the bulgur well covered in water 30 minutes. Drain carefully in a sieve to get it as dry as possible. Put in a med bowl and add the onion, tomato, chickpeas beans, half the chopped mint, lemon zest, olive oil, pepper and salt. Blend.

Prepare the chard by cutting off the stem at bottom edge of the leaf. (Save those stems.) Bring lightly salted water to a boil. Dip chard leaves for a second and remove immediately so they don’t tear. Drain and cool. Place each on a flat surface, spoon a heaping tablespoon the stuffing at the stem end, and lightly spread it a little bit up the stem. Fold in the sides of the leaves over the stuffing, then from the stem end roll the leaf like a jellyroll or cigar.  

Cover the bottom of heavy cooking pot with those chard stems and top them with slices of a large onion. Arrange the stuffed chard rolls tightly over the onion slice. Repeat if you need to make layers. Place a pot lot of flat china plate over the rolls to hold them down and put some sort of weight on top for good measure. Pour enough water into the pot to cover the top of the plate. Bring the water to boil. Reduce heat to low and cook 25 minutes.

While that’s happening, in a food processor or chopper or mortar, mix the mashed garlic with lemon juice, little salt and remaining mint leaves into a sauce.

With potholders, remove the weight and the plate. Using a spatula, carefully remove the chard rolls, place on a large serving platter. Pour the garlic sauce over the cooked rolls. Cover and allow to sit 15 minutes before serving.

Lima Bean Plaki
I'm including this hot or cold vegetarian dish from Veggiyana, the Dharma of Cooking because it has a cup of fresh parsley in it. This seemed a perfect transition for right now because I got to use up hoarded dried beans and clean out the cupboard for spring. I've also changed the recipe from the original.

Serves 6-8 

2 cups dried lima beans or 21/2 cups frozen cooked lima beans (depending on how much time you have)

½ cup olive oil

2 onions, peeled and finely chopped (the food processor can do it)

4 garlic cloves, peeled and minced

1 med/lgcarrot, peeled and diced

2 celery stalks, diced

1 tsp dried marjoram or thyme

1 tsp dried oregano

1 tsp dried sage

1 cup chopped fresh parsley

1½ cup chopped tomatoes (from the box or a can is fine)

1 tsp salt

½ tsp fresh ground or cracked black pepper

1 tbsp freshly squeezed lemon juice

water

If you are using dried lima beans, put them in a medium size pot, cover with water and bring to a boil over medium high heat. Reduce heat to low and boil three minutes. Remove from heat, cover and let stand one hour. Drain and rinse. Check beans for tenderness. If they are feel slightly tender, move to the next step. If they still feel hard, put them back in the pot, cover with water, and cook over medium heat for 15-20 minutes until they feel almost tender to a fork.

In a medium large casserole or large covered pot, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add onions and garlic, carrots, celery, marjoram/thyme, oregano, and sage. Sauté 5-6 minutes until vegetables are soft and golden.

 Add 1/2 c parsley, tomatoes, lima beans (either variety), salt and pepper. Add 1cup water. Cover and simmer over low heat for 20-25 minutes until the beans are very tender and so are the carrots. Stir in lemon juice. Let sit covered for 3-5 minutes. Adjust salt and pepper to your taste.

To serve: garnish with a splash of extra fruity olive oil and the remaining cup of chopped parsley. This can be served hot or cold the next day.  

Arugula and Fennel Salad
And finally, some crunch....This salad does not have salt in the recipe because it calls for fresh slices of parmesan cheese which if it's the real deal is salty. But feel free to add some if you prefer.
serves 6

2 fennel bulbs
2 cups arugula
1 lemon, juiced
2 oz Parmesan cheese
Extra virgin olive oil
Freshly ground black pepper

Loosely arrange the arugula on the bottom of a shallow salad bowl. Season with freshly ground black pepper and a drizzle of olive oil.

Cut stems and leafy tops off the fennel bulbs, Remove the core, Slice the remaining bulb into thin rounds/strips and spread over the arugula. 

Pour the lemon juice on the salad, then drizzle more olive oil and grind more pepper. Using a peeler, shave strips of Parmesan cheese on top of the salad. Serve